Bogen Posted October 18, 2004 Posted October 18, 2004 I once saw seth mason climb up the indoor wall at U of A, stop climb back down head first, effortlessly like a damn squirrel, take his shirt off while upside down above the floor, set it down, then turn around and climb back up. Quote
Distel32 Posted October 18, 2004 Posted October 18, 2004 go to "CPB's Training for Clownpunchers Camp" Â he'll wipe you into shape! Quote
RuMR Posted October 18, 2004 Posted October 18, 2004 whip or wipe?? hahahaha  bob is proof positive that you don't need massive amounts of physical strength to climb ok... Quote
Distel32 Posted October 18, 2004 Posted October 18, 2004 yeah, he is really weak, but still outclimbs my sorry ass on ropes. Â bouldering however is alllll mine Quote
EWolfe Posted October 18, 2004 Posted October 18, 2004 bouldering however is alllll mine  Gee, we hadn't really noticed - thanks for clarifying Quote
RuMR Posted October 18, 2004 Posted October 18, 2004 hey...it's pretty impressive considering how much he doesn't like to boulder Quote
texplorer Posted October 18, 2004 Posted October 18, 2004 Lots of good suggestions on how to get to .12. Â First, it is possible! I went from my first lead to .12 in about 2 years. Â It really is about changing your approach. Dedicate yourself totally and things will progress fast. That means climbing EVERY weekend, religiously getting to the gym 2-3 days a week and sticking to a plan. Eliminate any fears (falling, gear pulling, etc) and spend all your time reading about, thinking about, and getting out there and doing climbing. Â PS don't forget rest days. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted October 18, 2004 Posted October 18, 2004 Lots of good suggestions on how to get to .12. First, it is possible! I went from my first lead to .12 in about 2 years.  It really is about changing your approach. Dedicate yourself totally and things will progress fast. That means climbing EVERY weekend, religiously getting to the gym 2-3 days a week and sticking to a plan. Eliminate any fears (falling, gear pulling, etc) and spend all your time reading about, thinking about, and getting out there and doing climbing.  PS don't forget rest days.  And don't forget Texplorer's #1 training technique, i.e. lugging around a jumbo rack of hexes wherever you go! Quote
iain Posted October 18, 2004 Posted October 18, 2004 Hop on lower Heinous Cling and get ready for the ensuing beta storm launched your way. Eye protection from laser pointers is advised. The holds are ticked for your grabbing convenience. Quote
TimL Posted October 19, 2004 Posted October 19, 2004 In the winter, train a couple days in a row at the gym, then rest a couple days. Pyramid your grades when training at the gym to take into account technical difficulty and gaining endurance. I do two training days in a row, 1 technical and 1 endurance. Focus on footwork. Make your you don't climb yourself into an injury. Find other people that are climbing at that grade and ask them how they train. Don't forget a soid cardio program on off days. Find a partner that is as psyched as you are! Â Figure out if you want to climb 5.12 or be a 5.12 climber. They are vastly different things. It will take a lot to go from 5.10 to 5.12, but its not like going to Mars. Â Don't forget to have fun, thats what its about anyways! Quote
sk Posted October 19, 2004 Posted October 19, 2004 it seems to me that most of the posts above are what i'll call "modifying your body" type of tips...things like build endurance, get stronger, get better contact strength...these all can help...BUT...Most of this is "unnecessary" for upper 11's and low 12's of the technical variety that we have in the PNW (your post wasn't specific as to the "type" of 5.12 climbing required)...we don't really have sustained steep climbing around here...not like say the southeast...so i'll keep my comments to the type of sport climbing you're most likely to find around here... What you really really require to climb 5.11's and low 5.12's is technique...and this is a subtle technique that i'm talking about...the surest way to find this is to climb w/ "quiet feet"...don't just hurl your foot on to holds...place them on carefully, make sure your sole is really biting in to the hold...you want literally 90% of your weight on the footholds...  Toprope everything that is offered to you...regardless of the level...in fact don't even ask...you'll learn quicker w/ a mix of stuff that's way over your head and waaaay under your ability...but don't fall into a project trap that has been recommended above...i can't count the numbers of climbers that go out to si and beat a good 5.11+ into the ground, get it all slick and then go to a new area and get trounced by 5.10's and other 5.11's...be sure to fill in your base...if you go out and project something, MAKE SURE that you also complete other routes that are onsightable or done in a couple of go's...  As far as strength goes, you need to be able to do about 1/2 a pullup to climb 11+/12- in the PNW....   I SAID LEARN BETTER TECHNIQUE Quote
texplorer Posted October 19, 2004 Posted October 19, 2004 You could also get your appendix taken out, shave your head, and take dieuretics just before your .12 attempt. I call it Twight-style cragging. Â Oh, and DFA Hexes are so out. I carry around a sextuplet rack of aliens with steel biners now. Quote
specialed Posted October 19, 2004 Posted October 19, 2004 Expand your lung capacity. Take BIGGER bong hits. Quote
Terminal_Gravity Posted October 19, 2004 Posted October 19, 2004 Five twelve...It does have a nice sound to it, doesn't it. Â I started climbing in southern CA and Yosimite before there was such a thing as "Trad". 5.12 was just about the hardest thing out there. The difference between 5.11a and 5.12a is way more than the difference between 5.8 & 5.9. In fact I think that every letter grade increase is about 110% harder than the last increase. Â I have never had the opprotunity in life to climb every weekend for two years...but I have climbed every day for a month at times. I don't have the Tex body type. It took me four years to be a solid onsight 10c/d slab & face climber, another four years to bump that up one number grade and another four years to have a chance at an on sight of a 12a trad (slab or face). I was motivated and climbed and worked out regularly but not full time but even then I could not have even considered a 5.11 trad lay back or off width. I could "project" a 13 at my best but that's not really climbing; is it? Â My point, from experience, is this... you have a long way to go and it will take a lot of days on the rock and a high level of commitment in all aspects of your life if you really want to be a 12 on sight leader. If all you want to do is say you have pulled a twelve move that is a whole different story. I had that attitude about a 13/a after I had put up a 12/a route from the ground up. Frankly, I find the fact that I have pulled some 13 moves 18 years ago much less satisfying than the fact that I have cleanly and smoothly climbed long elevens in the valley...and had a lot of fun doing it! Â Isn't that what its about having fun climbing and fun in life not bragging about the hardest thing you have ever done? Quote
sk Posted October 19, 2004 Posted October 19, 2004 Five twelve...It does have a nice sound to it, doesn't it. I started climbing in southern CA and Yosimite before there was such a thing as "Trad". 5.12 was just about the hardest thing out there. The difference between 5.11a and 5.12a is way more than the difference between 5.8 & 5.9. In fact I think that every letter grade increase is about 110% harder than the last increase.  I have never had the opprotunity in life to climb every weekend for two years...but I have climbed every day for a month at times. I don't have the Tex body type. It took me four years to be a solid onsight 10c/d slab & face climber, another four years to bump that up one number grade and another four years to have a chance at an on sight of a 12a trad (slab or face). I was motivated and climbed and worked out regularly but not full time but even then I could not have even considered a 5.11 trad lay back or off width. I could "project" a 13 at my best but that's not really climbing; is it?  My point, from experience, is this... you have a long way to go and it will take a lot of days on the rock and a high level of commitment in all aspects of your life if you really want to be a 12 on sight leader. If all you want to do is say you have pulled a twelve move that is a whole different story. I had that attitude about a 13/a after I had put up a 12/a route from the ground up. Frankly, I find the fact that I have pulled some 13 moves 18 years ago much less satisfying than the fact that I have cleanly and smoothly climbed long elevens in the valley...and had a lot of fun doing it!  Isn't that what its about having fun climbing and fun in life not bragging about the hardest thing you have ever done? Quote
aLx_JustcliMbing Posted October 21, 2004 Author Posted October 21, 2004 Climbing is my passion. I ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT. It is what i do. i have been climbing all summer. i climb twice a week in the gym to work on technique and try to go out as many weekends as possible. The whole 5.12 thing is just my way of raising the bar and trying to push my limits. i want to climb 5.12 because i want my options to open up....i don't want to be limited in what and where i climb. i don't want to rely on someone else to haul my ass up the rock. So, quit my job....i am working on it. dating, especially this summer....not so much. i have no time for boys. i am only out climbing. so that is why i ask. i just want to get better because i want to get better. oh ya....there is always room for and nuts after a long day of climbing. thanks for the suggestions....... Quote
lancegranite Posted October 21, 2004 Posted October 21, 2004 5.12? Just move to Red Rocks, where everyone can climb 5.12! Quote
aLx_JustcliMbing Posted October 21, 2004 Author Posted October 21, 2004 are you referring to the beer and nuts? Quote
scott_harpell Posted October 21, 2004 Posted October 21, 2004 I am just wondering how many PM's you have received thus far. Quote
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