Supercrack in central Oregon?

[shapp]

Ryan on the John Day I am talking about the intersection of SR 26 and HWY 19, what unit are you hunting?

Cheers,

[rbw1966]

Its not on tribal land

[ryland_moore]

RBW is correct. Not on tribal lands. Shapp - S. Fossil Unit.

[beacon]

I found the area a few days ago and climbed the crack in the picture posted above by rbw1966 .

An excellent splitter, among the best I've climbed, and what an amazing place. A truly spectactular place to be on a crisp October day. Thanks to those who gave honest hints. Finding the place was part of the fun.

[mikebauer]

I spoke with two climbers here in Portland last night, and they told me that the location is closer than Smith. They also reported that fixed anchors exist, and that the crowds were non-existent. The report also spoke of splitter cracks. Basalt columns of this size are close to the Warm Springs Res. Bill's Columns are listed in the back of the Portland Rock Climbs book, but I question whether theses are in fact the columns in question. It sounds like a wonderful place. Camping was near by, so I am guessing that the proximity is close to public land.

[ryland_moore]

Public camping and boat launch are both nearby.

[skyclimb]

"billy is gay"

We now return to the regular broadcast channel......

[texplorer]

"billy is gay"

We now return to the regular broadcast channel......

 

This coming from a guy who calls himself a beaver?

[cman]

Is this place way up on the hillside? and do you have to hike up from the boat launch there or is there some other road?

[wimsey]

The "Billy is Gay" graffito is gone (painted over). The excellent climbing remains.

[corvallisclimb]

isnt the area in the dodge guide?

[shapp]

While checking out some old Climbing issues yesterday there was a report from 1983 of routes put up at the warm springs crag by Watts, Lester, and also the infamous Peter Croft! up to 5.12 cracks. I wonder if this is the same place as the crags along the dechutes? I will type in the report latter and I think a previous issue has a picture of the crag on the cover.

[wimsey]

Though I have not seen it, I'm told the Climbing cover shot is from Bill's Columns (of Bill Ramsey, who grew up nearby), the wall visible above the road to the east while crossing the river in Warm Springs. The "supercrack" described in this thread is on another similar wall downstream from Warm Springs and on the east side of the river. It is not on reservation land. Folks have been climbing here since at least the 80's as well though there was not much going on until about 4 years ago when many fixed anchors were installed. There has been some attempt to keep beta spread word of mouth and not have a published guide book. I can understand this POV as onsighting the cracks here, imagining FA's if only in my head, has been some of the most enjoyable climbing I've done in nearly 2 decades. However, I don't see overcrowding or overuse being an issue and I am happy to discuss the area with anyone who contacts me personally.

-Brett

[layton]

I don't think this area will ever get crowded, BUT there aren't a whole lot of climbs under 5.11 and the 5.10's are full on 5.10 climbs, also there is a significant grind to get to the climbs for single pitch stuff.

 

that being said, i will continue to go there and have fun getting my ass kicked.

 

i think with the spead of info on the internet, the climbers there will double, which means 4-8 people instead of 2-4.

 

If you are climbig there, i suggest LEAVE A NOTE ON YOUR CAR saying that you are climbing (vs. fishing or hiking) so if you roll into the p.lot and see 5 cars there with notes, you don't have to slog up the hill and salvage a day at smith.

[AFIVE]

It sure would have been nice if someone had asked me if they could post my picture on this site rather than just doing it and spraying about an area you have never been to!!

[ivan]

aww, how cute, afive appears shy!

 

actually, if that's you in the pic, you oughta eat some beans, boy! you look like a scrawny little bastard!

[RuMR]

[AFIVE]

Yeah that's me in the pic "guy". I like being a skinny bastard! It allows me to send sick cracks unlike fat F@#$* that can't do much but talk shit online!

[RuMR]

hmmm...this response warrants a double

 

now take your ball and run home....

[ivan]

what about fat fawks like me who can't even talk shit right?

 

dude, your ass got major air-time on like the most coolest bulletin board in the pacific northwest - you oughta be proud! the fact that the rest of you appears to also be like your ass will only further assure you of major sponsorship in the future...

 

[ryland_moore]

There has been some attempt to keep beta spread word of mouth and not have a published guide book. I can understand this POV as onsighting the cracks here, imagining FA's if only in my head, has been some of the most enjoyable climbing I've done in nearly 2 decades.

 

Ah, but Wimsey, there is a "guidebook" although not formally published.........

[Cobra_Commander]

for once would you guys just shut the f- up. please, I beg of you.

[AFIVE]

He has a copy of Jeff's guidebook with his name attatched to some of the FA's there! He is one of the ten folks who climb there on a regular basis. The second edition of the guide should be finished sometime soon! There are double the routes that the first guide had in it.

[olyclimber]

I hear that the Mounties, Boeing Alps Club, and the Mazamas are all headed down there this weekend.

[layton]

there's a softball game between leavenworth hardmen vs. castle crags hardmen, maybe we could schedule in a Trout Creek team to play winner. 1st prize, "Too Cool For School Recalcitrant Hardman Who's Ultrapossive of their Local Shitty Crag" trophy.