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Matt

What's your favorite sandbag?

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I gotta chime in on Godzilla. I followed it once and there isn't a move harder than 5.9 but, it is sustained 5.9 most of the pitch and traditionally, a rating is pumped up a bit for sustainability.

 

I think that move out of the crack onto the face on Jap Gardens is harder than 5.9, but I am a terrible face climber so, idunno. [hell no]

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some guides give supercharger .11a though so does that still count as a sandbag?

 

how is this for inconsistent:

1968 guide Exasperator p1=5.5, Banana Peel=5.6, Diedre=5.4, Crap Crags=5.6

1985 guide Exasperator p1=5.9, Banana Peel=5.7,

Diedre=5.7+, Crap Crags=5.8+

1999 guide Exasperator p1 = .10a, Banana Peel=5.8,

Diedre=5.8, Crap Crags=5.7

 

who is sandbagging who [Confused]

 

I prefer a 2bit binary rating system where the first bit is I can climb it, and the second bit is I would climb it. Thus Banana Peel=11, Freeway=01, Wyoming Sheep Ranch=00 etc.

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Tex, you got that right about Classic Crack. If that thing is .9, then monkey's routinely fly out of my arse. It might be at grade at the beginning of spring, but once a few hundred climbers, smear, bleed and thrash their way up that thing, it's a greasy slimy mess. I can't climb half way without venturing into the land of pump-o-rama, let alone bring myself to lead it.

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someone mentioned it would be fun to bring a bucket of 1M HCl to classic crack, pour it in, and watch the thing fizz out from all the MgCl slime.

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quote:

Princely Ambitions is definately mentally harder than it is physically.

There's that mental "move out into nothingness" spot and that physical "hand traverse across nothingness" spot.

 

quote:

magic fern and p2. of curious poses(private idaho -index), the first pitch of the lamplighter(index)

I meatgrindered myself good on magic fern first time I did it. The start is also sorta tricky I thought. Is p2 curious poses cleaned up (i.e. not covered with blackberries)? Lamplighter? Do tell...

 

quote:

B-line. 5.9 Cochise stronghold, AZ.

One move, 10a, max. [Wink] Check out Blood Brother next time you go there. And return with beta for me.

 

quote:

I think that move out of the crack onto the face on Jap Gardens is harder than 5.9

Well, that move is rated 10a isn't it? I thought that move was easy, though I almost coughed up my lung on the fist crack part. Ask PineyK.

 

Why has nobody yet mentioned Aries/Lizard Chimney. I've led that thing about a dozen or million times and NEVER followed it. Partners always seem to set up their belay right under that thing [Wink] . "It's too wet". I whined the same excuse first time there, but now have it wired.

 

What about the "nervous 5.6" on South Rib SEWS? I was pretty damn nervous on that.

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How about the last pitch on Davis-Holland/Lovin Arms; does anybody else out there think it's kind of hard for 5.9? Earlier this year, after climbing the first 5 pitches cleanly, I got 10 feet from the top on the last pitch and whipped. I can't remember the last time I fell or hung on 5.9. Sandbag?

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nope, web lackey right now. but my degrees are in geology and biology hence the shakey chem. Too much organic chemistry..brain can't absorb....shudder. [geek][geek][geek][rockband]

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quote:

Originally posted by texplorer:

Some of my fav sandbags:

Free for all 5.8 -Beacon Rock

Stanley Burger route- Prussik

Classic Crack 5.9 (My Ass) Broughton Bluff

Steck Salathe 5.9 or 5.9A2 -Yosemite

 

FYI ehmic: Godzilla isn't that wide.

Uhh ... maybe you were on the .10a direct start to Free For All? Otherwise, its sustained but not harder than 5.8. Great route though.

 

I'd say Classic Crack and everything else at Broughton's is sandbagged. Gandalf's at 5.9? An overhanging bulge off the ground into a finger and hand crack into slopers on a steep face and then an overhanging finishing bulge to another sloper underneath the anchor. Ugghh.

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Gandalf protects well though so it takes away from some of the pucker factor. Also the newer bolt at the last overhang helps out a lot. But overall I would agree that it's a bitch. On the flip side of that is the first pitch of "Superstition" I think the guide says .10+, but it seems like an easy cruise, even the friction traverse to the left (bolt at chest level)

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Potholes is more like a 5.6 [Confused]

 

I dont think Carnival Crack would be 11b at Squamish either.The hardest offwidth at Squamish (Scimitar) is 11b. And doesnt the guidebook say Carnival is 10d? I thrashed on it and it felt just like Squamish 10d offwidth to me, little easier (wider)and not as steep as Hypertension.

 

Here are some unrepeated? lines I bet are sandbags:

 

North ridge of Co-Pilot 5.5

North Ridge of Hozomeen South "5.4 but serious due to difficult protection"

 

[ 08-16-2002, 03:33 PM: Message edited by: Dru ]

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uh, Chuck I didn't do Blood Brother but I got a good look at it from Dem bones. It was [Eek!] Another good "5.9" is Absinthe of Malllet on the sheepshead formation. Great climbing, but a HELL of a lot of "5.9"!

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but the '+' is the sandbag loophole. 5.X+ means harder than 5.X, how much harder need not be specified. You can use the same logic to impress people by quite accurately claiming to be a .14- climber [big Grin]

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I'm going to throw this out there (again -- I brought it up a long time ago in another thread) because it's still a source of private humiliation for me:(

 

"B.S.", the 5.6 "approach" pitch to Overachiever, Leavenworth. I had to either aid past the bolt or avoid the "crux" by going way, way left. Anybody else suffer on that sandy pitch?

 

Michael

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What's the difference between sandbags and "testpieces?" I think many of the climbs people have mentioned could be considered testpieces for the grades instead of sandbags. To me a testpiece is a high quality climb that generally sets the standard for the grade at the area. If you can climb the testpieces, you can probably do OK of other climbs of the grade in the area.

 

Anyway, I'd third the last pitch of the S. face of Prusik and the Aries chimney at Index. I've also seen the one move fist crack on the first pitch of Aries confound many people, but I wouldn't call it a sandbag.

 

I didn't think the "nervous 5.6" on the SW Rib of SEWS was that nervous, but I did get nervous on the wide bear hug pitch (7+), as I had no gear big enough to matter.

 

Enough people have died on Double Cross (7+) at Josh, I'd say it would qualify as a sandbag. The first gear is ways up and the fist jamming begins right after that. Since it's a popular beginner route, people pitch and ground all too often.

 

"The Owl" on the Dome in Boulder Canyon is a two pitch 5.7 that's hard for the grade. Layton Kor's climbs tend to be rated very modestly. Then again, they were graded by a 6 foot 6 bricklayer with an absurd reach and hands the size of hams.

 

Wolf Tooth Crack (5.8) on the Twin Owls in Estes Park. Burly. The Damnation Crack of Estes.

 

[ 08-16-2002, 05:52 PM: Message edited by: Uncle Tricky ]

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quote:

Originally posted by ehmmic:

Godzilla feels sandbagged to me, but that's just because I still struggle leading the off angle wide stuff.

I just did Princely ambitions and Godzilla today for the first time, and Godzilla scared all fuck out of me compared to PA. But I was also placing crappy little hexes in the smaller crack on the upper section. For the perpetual 5.9 climber like myself Godzilla felt a hard as it gets. And what's up with the jar of giant Horse-cocks in the Index general store? Anyone know if they're yummy? [HORSECOCK]

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Lot's a classic crack bashing....

 

a few more WA sandbags INMHO.

 

*Potholes, rated (5.7+)

*Carnival Crack , rated (5.10c) -would be 11b in Squamish

*Thin Red Line pitch 1 rated, (5.8)

*Any bolted face at the upper town wall that has mossed over due to low traffic (almost all of them)

*Sting and wasp at midnight, rated(5.10a)

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quote:

[QB]
Princely Ambitions is definately mentally harder than it is physically.

quote:

Originally replied by chucK:There's that mental "move out into nothingness" spot and that physical "hand traverse across nothingness" spot.

I feel the initial lieback moves into the dihedral afterward are burlier than that hand traverse. The first time I did the traverse, I actually did it by walking across after some improbable moves to get my feet onto the ledge. My partner thought I was (rightly) an idiot for doing so, as the hand traverse is much easier.

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quote:

Originally posted by mark:

How about the last pitch on Davis-Holland/Lovin Arms; does anybody else out there think it's kind of hard for 5.9? Earlier this year, after climbing the first 5 pitches cleanly, I got 10 feet from the top on the last pitch and whipped. I can't remember the last time I fell or hung on 5.9. Sandbag?

I did the same thing the other day (except I fell on second/toprope). I thought it was probably more a case of my arms being blown from the previous pitch (and those before it) than it was sandbaggy. But I guess you could be right. That would make me feel better [Razz] .

 

The alternate start of p3 of Davis Holland is baggy at 10a. I suspect that will be corrected in the next edition of the Traveler's Guide.

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quote:

I did the same thing the other day (except I fell on second/toprope). I thought it was probably more a case of my arms being blown from the previous pitch (and those before it) than it was sandbaggy. But I guess you could be right. That would make me feel better .

I know several people who have fallen on the last pitch, but nowhere else on the climb. I don't necessarily think that pitch would be a sandbag if it was a single pitch climb, but it gives people trouble because it comes at the end of five continuously difficult pitches and because the style of climbing changes - all of a sudden, you are doing balancy face moves on slopey foot and hand holds.

 

Its a bitch . . .

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