Matt Posted August 15, 2002 Share Posted August 15, 2002 Yesterday I climbed Princely Ambitions. I had followed it before, but yesterday was the first time I'd ever lead it. I love the way it kept asking me to step out into nothingness. It used to be 5.8? No way. Even 5.9, I know lots of 5.9s that are easier than PA. A friend thinks Princely Ambitions is harder than Sagitarius (a nearby 5.10). I love Index sandbags. So tasty. Mmm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 15, 2002 Share Posted August 15, 2002 anything in the canadian rockies at 5.8 A2 right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted August 15, 2002 Share Posted August 15, 2002 Godzilla feels sandbagged to me, but that's just because I still struggle leading the off angle wide stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted August 15, 2002 Share Posted August 15, 2002 Princely Ambitions is definately mentally harder than it is physically. The "step out into nothingness" factor comes into play, but IMO it isn't harder than Sagitarius, or 5.9. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted August 15, 2002 Share Posted August 15, 2002 Did you ever do it when the block was there? It was quite a bit easier than it is now. It doesn't seem much harder than 5.9 now to me but there is much more of an intimidation factor. I don't know if I'd agree that PA is easier moves than Sagg but I'd agree it is more indimidating to lead. Think about leading both those climbs before cams! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 15, 2002 Share Posted August 15, 2002 Canary at 5.8 would be 5.9 at Squamish if climbed before 1986 or 10a if put up recently! (Mclane grades are not corrected for inflation) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted August 15, 2002 Share Posted August 15, 2002 I thought Canary was 5.9? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted August 15, 2002 Share Posted August 15, 2002 Oh yea my favorite sandbag: Gutbuster 5.12b in Leavenworth. Anyone actually do that guy? I can't rate it because I can't get up it! Why don't people give their "correct" rating for the sandbags. [ 08-15-2002, 09:50 AM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crack Posted August 15, 2002 Share Posted August 15, 2002 magic fern and p2. of curious poses(private idaho -index), the first pitch of the lamplighter(index), and the stanley-burgner route on prussik. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted August 15, 2002 Share Posted August 15, 2002 The Blade, .12a at Smith Rock. Ouch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thinker Posted August 15, 2002 Share Posted August 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by ryland moore: I thought Canary was 5.9? I think it depends on which guidebook you're looking at. Disclaimer: I have neither of mine at work with me today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted August 15, 2002 Share Posted August 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Oh yea my favorite sandbag: Gutbuster 5.12b in Leavenworth. Anyone actually do that guy? I can't rate it because I can't get up it! Why don't people give their "correct" rating for the sandbags. I've heard people say that Liquid Nitrogen at Wart Wall is a bit of a sandbag at .12a. (The trick is being able to reach over the edge and feel for the crimpers while standing on greasy,sloping, slabby feet.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted August 15, 2002 Share Posted August 15, 2002 Hey Crack were you on Lamplighter last Sunday? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klar404 Posted August 16, 2002 Share Posted August 16, 2002 B-line. 5.9 Cochise stronghold, AZ. Get on it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedMonk Posted August 16, 2002 Share Posted August 16, 2002 fear of flying 11a (squish) sharpest micro crimpers i have deals with so far in my short career... yeowch! [ 08-15-2002, 05:35 PM: Message edited by: RedMonk ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew_Jones Posted August 16, 2002 Share Posted August 16, 2002 Bunny Face - Smith Rock. I think it's maybe an 11.a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted August 16, 2002 Share Posted August 16, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Drew Jones: Bunny Face - Smith Rock. I think it's maybe an 11.a I got on that fucker once right after a late afternoon shower during which I downed a couple/five shots of Stoly. The Bunny Face kicked my ass big time. 10d/11a for sure that night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew_Jones Posted August 16, 2002 Share Posted August 16, 2002 My buddy had his first sport lead on Bunny Face. We re-named it "Visious Bloody Bunny Face". It just wasn't right having a first lead with such a sissy name. Maybe "Bunnyface Anally violates Snafflehound with Bloody Horsecock" would have been better??. Drew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted August 16, 2002 Share Posted August 16, 2002 Some of my fav sandbags: Free for all 5.8 -Beacon Rock Stanley Burger route- Prussik Classic Crack 5.9 (My Ass) Broughton Bluff Steck Salathe 5.9 or 5.9A2 -Yosemite FYI ehmic: Godzilla isn't that wide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 16, 2002 Share Posted August 16, 2002 quote: Originally posted by texplorer: Some of my fav sandbags: Free for all 5.8 -Beacon Rock Stanley Burger route- Prussik Classic Crack 5.9 (My Ass) Broughton Bluff Steck Salathe 5.9 or 5.9A2 -Yosemite FYI ehmic: Godzilla isn't that wide. Right on w/ Classic Crack, that thing routinely spits me out, greasy as hell. I feel better now. Maybe I just still suck at liebacks like that tho'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 16, 2002 Share Posted August 16, 2002 I've seen many a sketch on Bunnyface where a new leader is trying to get to that first bolt. It's a touch high for beginners (I think it's just the massive erosion going on around the a base of those climbs). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted August 16, 2002 Share Posted August 16, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: Canary at 5.8 would be 5.9 at Squamish if climbed before 1986 or 10a if put up recently! (Mclane grades are not corrected for inflation) Gravity pulls harder here in the states A 5.8 climber in leavenworth is a 5.10 climber at Squamish [ 08-15-2002, 11:34 PM: Message edited by: richard noggin ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 16, 2002 Share Posted August 16, 2002 I don't really think Princely or Godzilla are sandbags. They are just about right for their ratings. I agree with TEX: Godzilla isn't that wide. You don't even have to go wide at all if you don't want to. Has anyone got on "Dwarf Tossing" the bolted climb to the left of Princely? I haven't had the guts yet myself. It's not rated but I'll bet it's 10d at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 16, 2002 Share Posted August 16, 2002 ziller aint baaged one bit....in my opinion it is prolly the fairest and best rated .9 around.... it involves all da moves...face, mantels, fingers, hands, fists and a nice reach around move! i only wish there were some ow moves and maybe a durty chimmeny...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek_the_Greek Posted August 16, 2002 Share Posted August 16, 2002 MF Overhang in Leavenworth has slain me twice so far. Definitely harder than most 5.11's I've tried. Perhaps third time will be the charm? Squamish grades are inconsistent, I think. Sure there are the easy ones (Exasperator, pitoned into submission long ago, and Banana peel is now 5.8?), but there are plenty of ".10b" sandbags. Seasoned in the sun is rough for .10a, Caboose is rough for .10b, and while I have yet to get up there, the mighty Split Pillar (.10b) is considered one of the big cruxes of the .11a Grand wall. Brown ale For a good (and rare) Skaha sandbag, try Supercharger (5.10). Then have a for me.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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