Racking gear

[salbrecher]

Just wondering what people think is the best method of racking gear for alpine climbing and cragging? For example, racking all the nuts on several biners, one nut per biner, gear slings or all the gear on your harness gear loops? Don't forget to say why you think your method is best.

[ScottP]

Small wires on a biner.

Large wires on a biner.

Two/three small cams on a biner.

Medium/large cams on its own biner.

All this on gear slings; wires in front, cams in back, smallest to largest.

[richard_noggin]

quote:

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Originally posted by ScottP:

Small wires on a biner.

Large wires on a biner.

Two/three small cams on a biner.

Medium/large cams on its own biner.

All this on gear slings; wires in front, cams in back, smallest to largest.

---

You have a neet organized rack like mine.

How come the hardest crack climbers I have seen are more disorganized and hap hazered and they just seem to climb through and run it out?

What up with dat

[allthumbs]

walmart rack

[Paul_detrick]

I like to put most of my cams on the gear loops, I fill it lets me move better, I keep a couple of cams and sets of nuts on the gear sling, which makes it easyer for me. I have 13 cams and 2 sets of nuts, but don,t allways take it all, I will take 2 sets of draws, 6 locking binners, and 7 24in runners. That has got me thru everything so far in good shape, hope that helps.

[AlpineK]

quote:

---

Originally posted by ScottP:

Small wires on a biner.

Large wires on a biner.

Two/three small cams on a biner.

Medium/large cams on its own biner.

All this on gear slings; wires in front, cams in back, smallest to largest.

---

I mostly agree, but I put small cams on their own biner.

 

If I know I'm climbing a hand sized crack I'll shift the small stuff to gear loops.

 

Figure out what works best for you!

[chucK]

similar to those other guys:

two 'biners of stoppers, by size

ALL cams on their own 'biners (Nuetrinos!)

maybe one biner of misc like hexes and tricams.

What comes with varies with climb.

'round 10 shoulder length slings with two biners as draws (tripled for racking).

 

I don't know what that other guy was talking of when he said two sets of draws (do they come in sixpacks now?).

 

I usually keep all draws on harness (back) and all gear smaller than #3 Camalot on gear sling. Cams bigger than or equal to #3 go on harness.

 

Exceptions:

When climbing slabs all gear goes on harness.

When climbing chimneys no gear on back harness loops.

 

The reason my way is superior is because I like it that way, and I know where everything is. Obviously I don't expect this to translate to anyone else, but you asked!

 

My experience has been the opposite of Dick Wagon. I've found experienced, good climbers, know where their gear is, and can get it in a hurry. It amazes my how many people just put their gear in a mess and resulting have to flail at some crux searching for the right gear, even the draws!!

[Dru]

I kinda take what chucK does except I put all the draws on the gear sling and the gear on the harness - nuts and tricams on left side and cams on the right - cause that way gear doesnt swing around (draws ok to swing cause they are smaller) and you always know with which hand to reach for which piece.

 

I know lots of people do this the other way around but you all suck and my way is better.

 

Only time to vary this is if climbing a layback dihedral in which case you want all the gear on your outside side so it doesnt get stuck between your body and the wall.

[erik]

there is no right way or wrong way to rack gear....

 

to me it all depends on what i am doing and carrying......

 

and if you are climbing with someone new or different then usual and you are using their rack...adopt yourself to their style...

 

make it quick and easy to figure out.....

 

and when i am climbing no matter how scared i am or how my stuff is racked i am always able to get the right piece...well cept a few times......

[sk]

when you are climbing something that you haven't climbed before, and there is no bete, just don't forget your nutz... you never know when you might need them.. am I right tex???

[bellemontagne]

quote:

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just don't forget your nutz...

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Good advice SK. I use mine all the time...

[sk]

BTW for holly's benifit, I was being totaly serious. Yesterday the leader got into a tough spot and wished and cursed becuase the nutz were on the ground, and he had no solid cam palcement... He 'sent any way because he did have his courage

[bellemontagne]

And speaking of being in a jam...

 

Don't forget to bring your self-rescue gear. I usually rack mine on one of my rear gear loops.

[chucK]

And speaking of being in a jam...

 

If you're jamming your body partway into an offwidth/squeeze, make sure you put the gear you're gonna need on the outside, e.g. p2 Tatoosh/Free at Last carry the #3 Camalot on the left/out side.

[haireball]

interesting topic:

 

I rack 100% on my harness loops except on walls, when I carry more than will fit on the harness. the reason - physics! lower center of gravity improves balance. I rack cams and nuts on one side, draws on the other-never a question what's where. Several nuts/cams to each racking biner - means if I misjudge placement, I don't have to reach back to the rack to get the correct piece - it will be attached to the biner that I already have off the rack. cordelletes live on the back of the harness. A note on draws - I carry only one length of runner - a closed loop about 18", which I fold triple between two carabiners to form a 6" quickdraw. Thus, I never have to look for the correct length runner; if the short draw needs to be longer, I just drop one or two loops from one of the carabiners to lengthen it. If I need a "double" (longer than the 18") I can hitch two (or more) together. Since I rack all the draws on one side of my harness, I can grab the "right" draw every time, without even looking...

[Matt_Anderson]

I'm also a big believer in racking on my harness only. Gear slings get in the way.

 

Haireball - check out misty mountain. They have six-loop harnesses. You can even aid climb without a gear sling with those bad boys! I lllove 'em.

 

for what its worth, when racking on a six loop haness (four on top, two on the bottom) I put slings on the bottom, because its more important to keep the pro straight than the slings.

matt

[specialed]

rastafarian bivy kit

[texplorer]

Yes SK nuts can be useful but when your a cam dude like me its hard to accept (even when your runout on a crappy cam at a "secret spot" in central oregon-not that I would know anything about that anyway) Traditionally I don't like nuts (except those two essential ones) and especially not hexes or those lowe tricams thingers. I have about 30 something cams and I like to use em. I hear people always talk about a "bomber hex." Yea well I'll just plug in a #3 camalot and keep pluggin when your still fiddling with your "bomber hex." I know what your thinking, weight smeight -learn to haul a man's rack and then you won't have any problems. I admit I'm not a stellar climber or anything like that but I get up stuff alive and have a pretty good system. I have the same setup as AlpineK. My reason for not putting gear on my harness is that I find it hard to grab that yellow alien on my right side with my left hand when my right hand is in a greasy tips fingerlock.

 

[ 07-08-2002, 07:42 PM: Message edited by: texplorer ]

[sk]

All I know is that I am glad you showed up with your courage and you atained 'ROCK GOD" for the day status

[RedMonk]

i rack on the harness and alternate sizes from left to right so i can always have a similar size with either hand. like i will put a blue TCU on the left then a yellow one on the right....etc...that seems to work pretty well for that and when it is on your harness, on slab, you dont have the thing banging in front of you and have to fight it back behind you....