Condorphamine: OMFG!

[mvs]

RMeshew, DerWanderer, kks and I made a short climbing film of Condorphamine Addiction. Here is a tantalizing poster for the movie:

 

 

Good music, a few neat scenes, a mysterious intro. Let me know what you think!

 

Hi-res WMV, Low-res WMV.

 

Also wrote a boring trip report here.

[thelawgoddess]

mysterious intro indeed. i like the change of music at the crux. this climb is fun to lead and simul-rappel.

[chucK]

MVS media!

[gapertimmy]

sweet, i liked it looks like a dope route

[Distel32]

yeah dug it, intro was pretty damn lenghty though....

 

more climbing!

[mattp]

We need a NEW MOVIES FORUM!

[willstrickland]

The Happy Gilmore quote action was

[mvs]

Thanks for watching ("thank you for allow me to post").

Got carried away on that intro, too much vodka. The camera is a standard Panasonic miniDV camcorder of recent vintage, Theron do you have the model #?

[Der_Wanderer]

Yeah man...it's a Panasonic PV-GS70. It's a teeny 3CCD camera.

[Jedi]

How much does that camera weigh? Sony has a little camera that weighes 8oz without the battery.

jedi

[scott_harpell]

but it ain't 3 CCD Jedi.

[slothrop]

Argh! .wmv! Any chance you have an MPEG version?

[scot'teryx]

why would you not want a streaming version?

you can always save the target as an mpg

[fredrogers]

What's with the pig?

 

That is perhaps the only climb outdoors where the potential to z-clip exists at almost every bolt.

 

Pretty funny and a good waste of my employer's time. Thanks for sharing.

[slothrop]

why would you not want a streaming version?

you can always save the target as an mpg

 

Not if you don't run Windows.

[slaphappy]

That is perhaps the only climb outdoors where the potential to z-clip exists at almost every bolt.

 

Freddie, you must be quite a bit taller than I remember

[fredrogers]

Slappy-

 

Only using exaggeration to illustrate. Compared to many of the other sport routes in the Icicle (i.e., 4th of July Wall, Jazzy Document, etc) it is very comfortably bolted (of which I have no complaint).

[Crackbolter]

I'm wondering why there aren't more routes on the buttress like the condorph. addiction.

[2morehours]

Great film MVS - I admit as I've gained experience in the mountains, your site has been invaluable. Keep up the awesome work!

[Szyjakowski]

I'm wondering why there aren't more routes on the buttress like the condorph. addiction.

there are other old routes to be repeated on the condor buttress...they just have no bolts....repeated parts of one last season w/rat...goood shit...just to the left of the boltfest most of the way. a little moss pealing cussin and dirt in the eyes and the summit was easily obtained sans bolts (5.9ish)

get 'er done!

[ClimbingGirl33]

That was awesome - just the break from Corporate Monkeydom I needed!!!

 

Thanks.

 

B

[timplace]

Windows Media Player for the Mac is available ... free. Try Google or Microsoft.

 

If you are running Linux ... well!!

 

The thing is, MS's version of MPEG-4 (wmv9) is not only the best codec out there, it is free, as is the encoder. It is not going to go away, so learning to live with it is useful.

[Alpinfox]

I climbed CA with Fred Beckey on Wednesday (5/19/04). It was his idea. I don't know who told him about the route, but he somehow got his mind set on it. I was a bit surprised that he wanted to climb a [cough]overbolted[/cough] "alpine" sport route, but what the hell.

 

We drove out Tuesday night and made the mistake of pulling into one of the official campgrounds. The next morning we were just about packed up and ready to pull out of there without paying when ranger rick pulled up and asked for $10 . I won't do that again. Fred and I seem to share the dirtbag climbers' disdain for these campgrounds and the exorbitant fee they charge. He said, "Damn government... you might as well just throw the money out the window...they're just gonna spend it on the fuckin war"

 

The hike up to Bathtub dome took a while. We stopped at that slabby thing just east of BD and did a one-pitch route called "Chitlins" (I think) that seemed pretty hard for 5.8. We then hiked up to Condor Buttress and started on Condorphamine Addiction.

 

Condor Buttress. CA is white streak at far right of buttress:

 

I led pitches 1&2 and spotted a nice pair of boxer shorts at the belay. Read more about that HERE.

 

Then, to my surprise, Fred said he wanted to lead the next pitch!

 

Here he is starting pitch # three:

 

Here is another picture, note the hat rotated into "sendbot" position:

 

Fred also decided he wanted to lead pitch #4, so here he is starting that one too:

 

We took a break at the top of pitch four and surveyed the Icicle Valley. I quizzed Fred on the names of all the visible peaks and who climbed what on them when. "That's the blockhouse, I did the second ascent on that... That's the lighthouse", etc. etc. He knows a lot of stuff (duh) but he also kept saying, "it's in the guidebook". We stopped at the top of pitch four because Fred's back was hurting a bit and some storm clouds were rolling in. Two quick 50m double-rope raps got us to the base of the route and we started hiking down.

 

A beautiful hike down from Condor Buttress:

 

When we got back to the car, we ran into a couple from Bend (Travis and Sophia I think?) who had climbed the central route on Bathtub Dome.

 

Fred is pretty stingy with his praise for climbing routes, so I knew he enjoyed the route when he said, "Yeah... It was pretty good".

 

We left the car at about 8am and returned at around 5pm. I believe this constitutes a new octagenarian speed ascent for the routes we did and I can provide a GPS record and several snaffle-eye witnesses for verification. Stimson Bullit eat your heart out!

Edited June 12, 2006 by jon

[Dru]

[Alex]

totally !!