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Condorphamine: OMFG!


mvs

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Thanks for watching ("thank you for allow me to post").

Got carried away on that intro, too much vodka. The camera is a standard Panasonic miniDV camcorder of recent vintage, Theron do you have the model #?

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  • 2 weeks later...
I'm wondering why there aren't more routes on the buttress like the condorph. addiction.

there are other old routes to be repeated on the condor buttress...they just have no bolts....repeated parts of one last season w/rat...goood shit...just to the left of the boltfest most of the way. a little moss pealing cussin and dirt in the eyes and the summit was easily obtained sans bolts (5.9ish)

get 'er done! bigdrink.gif

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Windows Media Player for the Mac is available ... free. Try Google or Microsoft.

 

If you are running Linux ... well!!

 

The thing is, MS's version of MPEG-4 (wmv9) is not only the best codec out there, it is free, as is the encoder. It is not going to go away, so learning to live with it is useful.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I climbed CA with Fred Beckey on Wednesday (5/19/04). It was his idea. I don't know who told him about the route, but he somehow got his mind set on it. I was a bit surprised that he wanted to climb a [cough]overbolted[/cough] "alpine" sport route, but what the hell.

 

We drove out Tuesday night and made the mistake of pulling into one of the official campgrounds. The next morning we were just about packed up and ready to pull out of there without paying fruit.gif when ranger rick pulled up and asked for $10 madgo_ron.gif. I won't do that again. Fred and I seem to share the dirtbag climbers' disdain for these campgrounds and the exorbitant fee they charge. He said, "Damn government... you might as well just throw the money out the window...they're just gonna spend it on the fuckin war" yelrotflmao.gif

 

The hike up to Bathtub dome took a while. We stopped at that slabby thing just east of BD and did a one-pitch route called "Chitlins" (I think) that seemed pretty hard for 5.8. We then hiked up to Condor Buttress and started on Condorphamine Addiction.

 

Condor Buttress. CA is white streak at far right of buttress:

1826P5190259-med.JPG

 

I led pitches 1&2 and spotted a nice pair of boxer shorts at the belay. Read more about that HERE.

 

Then, to my surprise, Fred said he wanted to lead the next pitch! cool.gif

 

Here he is starting pitch # three:

1826P5190275-med.JPG

 

Here is another picture, note the hat rotated into "sendbot" position:

1826P5190272-med.JPG

 

Fred also decided he wanted to lead pitch #4, so here he is starting that one too:

1826P5190274-med.JPG

 

We took a break at the top of pitch four and surveyed the Icicle Valley. I quizzed Fred on the names of all the visible peaks and who climbed what on them when. "That's the blockhouse, I did the second ascent on that... That's the lighthouse", etc. etc. He knows a lot of stuff (duh) but he also kept saying, "it's in the guidebook". We stopped at the top of pitch four because Fred's back was hurting a bit and some storm clouds were rolling in. Two quick 50m double-rope raps got us to the base of the route and we started hiking down.

 

A beautiful hike down from Condor Buttress:

1826P5190282-med.JPG

 

When we got back to the car, we ran into a couple from Bend (Travis and Sophia I think?) who had climbed the central route on Bathtub Dome. wave.gif

 

Fred is pretty stingy with his praise for climbing routes, so I knew he enjoyed the route when he said, "Yeah... It was pretty good".

 

We left the car at about 8am and returned at around 5pm. I believe this constitutes a new octagenarian speed ascent for the routes we did and I can provide a GPS record and several snaffle-eye witnesses for verification. Stimson Bullit eat your heart out!

Edited by jon
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