Alpinfox Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 Climb: Smiff-Cruel Sister, Delerium Tremens, Blue Light Special Date of Climb: 3/8/2004 Trip Report: Senor BobbyPeru and I decided to avoid the cc.com infestation of Smiffy by heading down there for a Monday/Tuesday sendfest. Monday we headed to the lower gorge and were basking in the sun; big smiles on our faces and no shirts on our backs. We saw this bat on the hike in: He didn't look to be in very good shape and had some kind of line/fillament that seemed to be sticking out of his back. Since he was out in full daylight, I didn't think he was going to last very long. Anybody know what species? So after hanging out with the bat for a bit, we warmed up on Dire Wolf, a pretty nice 5.8 crack, and Sitting Duck, a pretty nice 5.9 crack. Now, a note to you newbies out there just getting started leading cracks. It's important to have a very experienced climber check out your gear placements and give you some feedback. This guy checked out a couple of my cam placements and didn't seem to like the fact that they were in his living room: After getting schooled by the "Safety Lizard", I felt confident enough to lead "Cruel Sister" which is one of the sweetest collections of hand jams I've encountered: We toproped some stuff including Crack-A-No-Go (11b)which I got without falling! and Catalyst (12a/b) which I hung like a dog on. I didn't get all the moves, but I got most of em. We then headed over to the front side and I led Blue Light Special which I didn't quite get a redpoint on (WTF?). Those crux holds could use a good brushing! On the way back to the car, we saw a guy clinging to the seemingly holdless vertical wasteland of Picnic Lunch Wall. A quick purusal of Mr. Watt's bible revealed that the "route" was a 5.14a? project and a quick purusal of the back muscles attached to the climber and the little blonde honey belaying led Mr. Peru to speculate that we were most likely witnessing Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden enjoying some Oregon sunshine. Here he is: After watching him take a couple falls (wimp), but eventually get to the chains, we headed across the bridge where I got a couple of nice sunset shots: We headed into Bend that night and checked out the Deschutes Brewery. As it turns out, Monday nights are Locals nights (cheap beer) so the place was packed! For some reason, none of the four women there wanted to step up and chat with a couple of stinky climber lowlifes such as ourselves... WAZZUP LADIES!?!? A solid night of drinking can make you a little shaky the next day, so I experienced a little "Delerium Tremens" while leading this steep corner hand crack: I had the shakes so bad I even dropped my NUTZ; something I've never done before. The sober Mr. Peru showed me the proper technique for this pitch STEMMING! I climbed a couple of unknown bolted routes on the west side of "the mudpile" just uphill from Delerium Tremens. If anyone knows what these were, I'd like to hear names/grades. The first felt 5.9/10a the second felt like 5.8/9 with one reachy/thin 10b move. I think this pic is of the reachy 10b move on the second (further uphill) climb. I think both climbs were 8 bolts to the anchor. Second climb had a snaplink anchor. Anyone? Well, it was a fun weekend. Nice to be out in the sun and climbing some sweet cracks! Cheers to Mr. Peru. Gear Notes: Bring your safety lizard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 fun in the sun!!! thanx pax good times, was stoked to try out the ol' busted flipper, not 100% but gettin there...-bp thanx for not posting the climbing boxer shorts pics -its fun gaping sometimes, especially at smiff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 Looks like fun Pax! (now get a job, you're making us all jealous!!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bunglehead Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 Worked on me. I am jealous. I may have to be sick next monday..<COUGH><COUGH> .Nice pics gents! Ahhh.....Central Oregon!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted March 11, 2004 Share Posted March 11, 2004 werd! I knew that was tommy and beth!!! I saw them walking down the hill and said Hi, then turned around and was like wtf? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted March 11, 2004 Author Share Posted March 11, 2004 It was amazing how still and in control Mr. Caldwell was at all times and how precise his movements were. He must not be related to Elvis. It was also incredible watching him just rest while laybacking off of the arete (just below where he is in the picture). I'm sure it's wicked hard there and he just sat there for close to 10 minutes before heading up the arete and into the crux just above. WOW! I hope he gets the redpoint and names it something nifty. BTW: Is Ian Caldwell related to Tommy? I ain't up on that climbing groupie gossip shit. DBB - *PTTTTHBB!!!* Can you get me a job at Der Institute Der Biowhatnot? I'd take it, assuming they pay me a ridiculous salary, give me a personal assistant, and 90 days of paid vacation/year. You can tell them those terms are SOMEWHAT negotiable. Oh, and nice avatar picture! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted March 11, 2004 Share Posted March 11, 2004 Nice TR, kids -and nice photos. What kinda camera ya got there, pax? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted March 11, 2004 Share Posted March 11, 2004 It's already got a name: "The Big R", and it is 5.14. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted March 11, 2004 Share Posted March 11, 2004 Nice TR, kids -and nice photos. What kinda camera ya got there, pax? Olympus S300D. Am I right? Am I right???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted March 11, 2004 Author Share Posted March 11, 2004 (edited) Olympus Stylus 300. I don't think mine is a "D", but I "dunno". Edit: OH! "D" = "Digital". Yeah, I'm dumb. It's been a good one. Doesn't take great macro shots and I don't think the picture quality is as good as the big honkin' Olympus I had before, but it's small, light, "weatherproof", and has an all-metal body (I've dropped it a couple times). I'm pleased. Squidy! Let's go climbin! I wanna hang out with you more cuz judging from Icegirl's reaction, you attract a lot of ladies. Mr.E - Has the route been redpointed before? Is it the case that the person who redpoints an open project gets to name it even if they didn't develop it? So it's 5.14what? Edited March 11, 2004 by Alpinfox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlag Posted March 11, 2004 Share Posted March 11, 2004 Both of those routes on the W.side of the Mudpile are 10a. Pretty fun but kind of junky rock, I don't even know if cleaning would really help. Can't remember the names, they're in the red addendum. Nice work on Delerium, one of the best cracks on Tuft at Smith. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 12, 2004 Share Posted March 12, 2004 Mr. Caldwell (Tommy, that is -- not related to Ian, by the way) was rumored to have been working on the 5.15 proj to the right of Scarface earlier in the week, although no draws were on it over the weekend. Apparently there are no holds on it, either, at least none you can see from the ground. Sickasfuck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted March 12, 2004 Share Posted March 12, 2004 Has that thing even been touched in the last 12 years? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 12, 2004 Share Posted March 12, 2004 Apparently that one guy, that good climber -- what's his name? -- Shawarma or something? Anyway, apparently he was on it back when he came to Smith to send everything. It's gotta be bad news if it's too hard for that kid. Or maybe the route just sucks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted March 12, 2004 Share Posted March 12, 2004 Squidy! Let's go climbin! I wanna hang out with you more Cool. The next couple o' weekends I'll be heading down to Smith, and it'd be great if ya came along. I've been training hard, bouldering some sick shit, and I think I'm ready for the send of my futuristic project "Cinnamon Slabs." Its dope! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted March 12, 2004 Share Posted March 12, 2004 Nice post Foxbro, Sounds like you got on some peaches. I can't wait to get back this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted March 12, 2004 Author Share Posted March 12, 2004 Squidy! I'll totally give ya a beeeelay on yer sick C.S. project bro! YOU CAN SEND IT! You should ask around here for some beta; I hear there is a crazy dyno belly-flop move about half-way up. Tex - Thanks, definately some nice peaches. I hope I run into you at Smiff again sometime soon. Good work on Yocum and nice pics! Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted March 12, 2004 Share Posted March 12, 2004 Yeah,it looks freakin' blank, but so does The Big R. That project is the belly of the beast, though - way more overhanging than The R. Bad news indeed if it spanked Shwarma. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted March 12, 2004 Share Posted March 12, 2004 Yeah, I got some top-secret beta on the down-low. I can't tell you everything, but I know you've seen me working on that nasty navel-smear technique in the gym- it works! The key is low-cut jeans and a brazilian- it's like aid. Shit...I probably said too much already Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted March 12, 2004 Author Share Posted March 12, 2004 MMMmmmm.... navel smear... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 15, 2004 Share Posted March 15, 2004 The Big R was first climbed by some French dude back in the mid 90's and is named after a hardware store in redmond Originally rated 14b by said French dude it later dropped to 14a after a quick repeat and has stayed there ever since. IIRC the holds at the bottom are full on chipped edges in otherwise blank desert varnish which is not too aesthetic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted March 19, 2004 Share Posted March 19, 2004 Dude, thanks for sharing. Does anybody know if Sky ridge has newer bolts? I did it a long long time ago- the bolts were old then, I am heading over there with a friend and his wife, I thing this route would be a good one for her. I remember really enjoying it at the time, but haven't been back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted March 19, 2004 Share Posted March 19, 2004 Didn't appear to have any new bolts on it last summer when I did it. The beginning is pretty run out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted March 22, 2004 Author Share Posted March 22, 2004 Hey Billcoe, This is probably old news to you by now, but according to CptCaveman, the route has been retrobolted and isn't "R" anymore. Caveman's post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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