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willstrickland

Holy S#$%!! Check this OBVIOUS line

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Blood from Stone on Dickey?

If so, that line is the most obvious and is unclimbed. But its also wicked steep and sustained and would require perfect conditions to send.

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sean easton said the line to the right begins as powder snow over blank granite. feel like a bolt ladder?

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Yeah, that line was totally visible in Sean's article in Alpinist a while back.

 

It's been tried several times I've been told, but everyone has just encountered snowy crap. If conditions materialized it looks like it'd be amazing.

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I did some research into this route a year or two ago and came across accounts of several attempts on the route, all reporting terrible snow and ice conditions. There is a huge serac that hangs over the gully and strafes the route. In spite of this, two guys from Fairbanks (maybe Anchorage, cant remember) climbed it in 2002 according to the beta in the Talkeetna Ranger station.

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my friends tried that while I watched from the relative comfort of another climb. The reported fluffy puff and did a couple heinous pitches before bailing. Perfect conditions a must.

 

Coley, you said it's been climbed?

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yeah, high mountain sports, alpinist and aaj all claim the line to the right is still unclimbed so if it has been done that info should get published ASAP.

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So where is the threatening serac? Seems to be nothing hanging above but granite.

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I think it was done this past sept. That's what I heard, but you know how that goes.....

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Correction with regard to my previous post. I looked back over the Dickey info in the Ranger station again this spring and contrary to my previous post, I could not find any indication that this route has been climbed to the summit. Sorry for the misinformation and inaccurate post.

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I wonder if that is Snow Patrol. I can't tell from the picture and topo I have, whether that is the line that Sam Chinnery & Andy Sharpe did April 7th. Is this the South East corner of Dickey?

Which Alpinist was Sean's article in? I might be able to tell from another photo.

Jedi

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Ahhh.......looked Blood from a Stone up in the 03 AAJ. I was way off base. Snow Patrol is an ice & snow line to the left (out of the pictures shown above).

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Nothing new but I remember reading an account of an attempt.

It was scetchy at the bottom as others have poited out but this team made it up into the ice. Their problem was the incessant flow of spenthrift and other "particles" that have nowhere to go but down the line. They backed off feeling lucky to be alive after one big piece wooshed by both of them.

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We tried it a few years ago. There was ice(?) at the bottom but it ran out after 7 or 8 pitches. After that it was vertical snow and blank rock. When we bailed we had to chop bollards in the vertical crap because V threads wouldn't hold and there was almost no rock pro. In that photo the line looks like it's out in the open but it's really in a chimney. Alot deeper in a chimney then it looks. The real ice prize is on Dickeys south side!

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I heard two climbers from Colorado quietly sent it last year and rated it 5.4 AI4 M5. Look for a report in the new AAJ.

 

Right Mike?

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