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Everything posted by joepuryear

  1. Trip: I Love the Desert Date: 4/28/2008 Trip Report: This spring I was fortunate to make a really fun desert Southwest tour with my wife Michelle and a few other friends. We visited Colorado, Utah, Arizona, and Nevada. During the trip I climbed 32 desert towers and a half dozen other routes. First stop was Colorado National Monument. It was pretty cold, but we managed to climb Independence Monument, Otto's Route (III, 5.9). Colorado National Monument, with Independence Monument on the right: A close up: The route was pretty "cool" with snow all over the ledges, But fun none-the-less. Love the history of the route with all the manufactured holds and staircases. You can see one of the staircases in the pic below, and Michelle is grabbing on to an old pipe hole: With temps dipping down to 10-degrees, we decided to head farther south to the Moab area. We did a quick climb of South Six Shooter, South Face (II, 5.8). On South Six Shooter Peak, with North Six Shooter in the distance. It snowed on us, so dreaming of warmer weather we decided to head farther south into Arizona. We had long wanted to climb in the Superstition Mountains outside of Phoenix. The Superstitions. The Hand, the Tower, and the Prong are the first three towers on the lower left. The larger Grandfather Hobgoblin Spire is on the right, but blends in a little with the cliff behind: The rock at the "Supes" is really interesting, some kind of crazy conglomerate. The protection is often sparse, and when there are bolts, well... One of those plant towers: The first day we did a collection of towers on the northwest side of the range. We climbed The Hand (5.6), The Tower (5.8 R), The Pickle (5.4), The Periscope (5.4R), and The Prong (5.6). All of them were unique little climbs and summits. Very cool. The Hand: Here is Michelle at a small belay on The Hand. The 3-pitch route we climbed was called the Razor's Edge and the climbing was on a 3-foot wide, steep ridge crest: The Tower had 25-feet of unprotected, overhanging 5.8 climbing to start the route, then a long and thoughtful 5.7R pitch above that. It felt good to get on top of that sucker. The Pickle was fun - it looks steep and hard from the base but it really is only 5.4. The climbing is on huge cemented together conglomerate rocks. Michelle rapping off the Pickle. The next day we woke up for two more climbs of Grandfather Hobgoblin (III, 5.9), and the really fun North Buttress, Spider Walk (III, 5.6). Here is Grandfather Hobgoblin, the 4-pitch route climbs up to the notch on the left, then right up to the summit: Looking down at Michelle atop the first pitch: View from the summit out towards the suburban sprawl: After rapping down we went directly over to the North Buttress. Spider Walk takes an improbable looking line (for 5.6), meandering up 4 pitches of run-out slabs, with hard to find bolts, then up a chimney/crack system up a very cool feature. Here's a shot of the North Buttress. The route starts on the left side, then works its way up to the chimney near the top: Michelle following the second pitch: At the end of the route, you can scramble up to a high spire that overlooks everything. A final sunset: Next stop was Red Rocks, Nevada. We spent a few days climbing Dark Shadows (5.8), Frogland (III, 5.8), Sour Mash (III, 5.10a), then met with our good friends Chin and Raleigh and climbed Eagle Dance (III, 5.10c A0) and then a twisted variation of The Gobbler and Yellow Brick Road (III, 5.10c) on Black Velvet Wall (this to bypass the cluster on Dream of Wild Turkey's and other routes). Hiking up to Eagle wall: Me leading the second pitch of The Gobbler, with Raleigh belaying: Michelle following Sour Mash: All in all we had a great week in Red Rocks, with splitter weather and pretty moderate crowds. Next stop: Zion. I really love Zion, and this is partly why: We only had a chance to spend two days here. The first day was a bit of a lazy day. We rode up canyon in the shuttle and climbed The Pulpit, Original Route (5.9, C1) - a cool little spire at the end of the road. Here's Michelle following the one and only pitch: Day 2 we climbed the Iron Messiah (III, 5.10) a 10-pitch route on the Spearhead. You gotta love chimneys to like this route: High on the route (see Michelle at bottom of crack and shuttle bus below), the second to the last pitch was a stellar 200-foot corner. It had been a few years since visiting Zion and I was really psyched to climb there again if only for a couple days. Michelle had to head back home and my buddy Jim flew down to meet me for some climbing around Moab. Our first stop was the Bridger Jack Towers in Indian Creek. In two days we climbed Sparkling Touch Tower (5.11-), Thumbelina Tower (5.11), Sunflower Tower, East Face (III, 5.10), Easter Island Tower (5.10), and King of Pain, Vision Quest (III, 5.10+). Shadow of the Bridger Jacks on the desert floor: Jim's picture of me leading Thumbelina, a great single pitch of 5.11, and a cool spire to boot! Jim's picture of me leading the first pitch of Sparkling Touch: The King of Pain. Vision Quest climbs the split between the two towers: Here's Jim in the 5.10 slot on Vision Quest. After this pitch, I won't disagree with the guidebook description calling the route "burly". Jim taking the lead on the last pitch of Sunflower Tower. South and North Sixshooter can be seen in the distance. I was psyched to finally climb on these towers. The ease of access, quality rock and routes, and relaxing atmosphere made for a great couple of days (and a great warm up for Jim!) Next we headed into Canyonlands National Park. We stopped by the ranger station and got a permit to camp down on the White Rim for a couple days, then later that afternoon we climbed Washer Woman, In Search of Suds (III, 5.10+). The route was super-classic just like everyone said it would be. Gotta be one of the most unique looking towers in the desert. Can't wait to see what it looks like when that chock stone falls out! Washer Woman and Monster Tower: Looking down from the last pitch, with Monster Tower behind: Jim's pic of me leading the final summit block: Gotta love that rappel! Next we headed into Monument Basin. Our first objective was the ultra-classic Standing Rock, Kor Route (III, 5.11). You can tell this route gets climbed a ton because there is no loose rock or mud typical of the area to speak of. I can only imagine what it must have been like on the first ascent. Jim's pic of me leading the great roof (way easier than it looks from below): Jim following the second pitch: That afternoon we climbed the Shark’s Fin, Fetish Arête (III, 5.10c R). This route doesn't seem to get as much traffic and one gets a taste for some more authentic Monument Basin climbing. This picture was taken from Island in the Sky. The route follows the lower angled right side for 5 fun pitches: Jim's pic of me starting up the first pitch: I thought the 1st and 3rd pitches were more R rated than the 5.10b R second pitch according to the guidebooks. Jim rappelling off of Shark's Fin - awesome rock striations: ....continued...
  2. Trip: Utah Desert Tower Tour - Date: 3/20/2007 Trip Report: My wife Michelle and I just returned from a two week trip climbing desert towers around Moab, Utah. Overall we had a great trip, climbing 11 routes on 10 towers (actually 9 towers and 1 mesa). Our first stop was Arches National Park. We decided to warm up on Off Balanced Rock, North Chimney (5.7). The 100-foot runout on the second pitch was a little unnerving but luckily the chimney was fairly secure. Here's a shot of me taking a picture of Michelle coming up the chimney: On top of Off Balanced Rock: Next stop was the obligatory Owl Rock, Olevsky Route (5.9), definitely a must do tower for anyone visiting Arches. Michelle rapping off: That evening we hiked out to Delicate Arch for the sunset. Next it was time for the Fisher Towers. It rained a little the night we got there, so climbing Ancient Art the next day was out, as climbing dry mud is bad enough. Instead we did the really cool hike through the towers and out to a viewpoint. Later that evening it seemed to dry out enough to give Lizard Rock, Entry Fee (5.9) a go. Leading up: Michelle on top: The next day we headed up to do Ancient Art, The Corkscrew Route (III 5.10d) The route climbs up the central chimney then up the highest point on the left. Following the first bolted crux: The summit has to be one of the top five coolest spots in the world that I have been. We came back down and I decided to give a go at The Cobra (5.11 R). I mean, how much longer is this thing going to be there? I had to get it while I still could. Chalking up under the lip: One more day in the Fisher Towers and we wanted a little bit more, so we climbed the Kingfisher, Colorado Northeast Ridge (IV 5.8 C2). Kingfisher, the route ascends the left side of the tower: This was actually Michelle's favorite route of the whole trip! Not because the climbing was that great - mostly a bolt ladder with a few very C2 mud placements and some good free-mudding. But the overall line, exposure, and summit were fantastic. Looking straight down the Northeast Ridge: Summit views - The Titan, Echo Tower, and Cottontail Tower: Next stop was Castle Valley. We of course had to do the obligatory route on Castleton Tower- the Kor-Ingalls (III, 5.9). Castleton Tower: The route follows the central dihedral: The line is good, but the climbing leaves a bit to be desired. The crux offwidth is only cruxy because they tell you to bring so much god-damned gear up the route and you have to squeeze up the thing with all this crap. In reality you only need a number three Camalot and 4 quickdraws to lead the crux pitch. Anyways, cool summit. Michelle coming up the crux OW/Chimney: The Rectory came with many recommendations, and although it is a mesa and not a tower, it still has a tower feel and is a really cool desert formation. The Rectory is the Mesa in the foreground, the route climbs directly up the facing wall: We climbed Fine Jade on the Rectory (III, 5.11a). The first two pitches are the crux and are both interesting and sustained. The warm up pitch is a steep but short 5.10d hand-OW-hand crux. Michelle following the first pitch: We hiked across the Rectory to watch some climbers on the Honeymoon Chimney of The Priest. Climbers on Fine Jade, The Rectory: Later that afternoon we decided to climb the North Chimney of Castleton Tower (III, 5.9), as many people consider it the better of the two moderate routes. The first pitch was ultimately classic. Two parallel cracks, mostly hand jamming, and interesting moves for an entire 150 feet. The second pitch, however, was mostly junk and I linked all the way to the notch in exactly 200 feet. Michelle following the first pitch: The next mission was Sister Superior, Jah Man (III, 5.10c). Another fine desert route, with a stout but short crux on the 3rd pitch. And one of the finer chimneys in the area - the Sister Squeeze chimney on the 2nd pitch. Sister Superior: Up close: Looking down the 3rd pitch: On the summit looking toward Castleton and the Rectory: And for the final hurrah we took the long drive out and climbed Moses, Primrose Dihedrals (IV, 5.11d). Moses is the tallest tower: The route is everything it's cracked up to be - short but sustained pitches, interesting climbing, and an awesome position. Michelle coming up the 4th pitch: Pitch 5: Summit success: Gear Notes: SuperTopo: Desert Towers - a great guide for these routes. Approach Notes: High clearance 4x4 recommended - even for parking lots.
  3. Trip: Goose Egg - Spoil ill Date: 7/20/2010 Trip Report: In the early part of this millennium, the Deep Water Horizon was constructed and started drilling for oil throughout the world's oceans. At around the same time, Stoney and I searched for our own spoils on the south face of the Goose Egg. We started several drilling operations and discovered much untapped potential. Several routes were constructed and in 2003 the beginnings of a new project were under way without any plans or regulations. But years of procrastination, underfunding, and lack of oversight went by and the route was left as an unfinished project. On April 20, 2010 when the Deepwater Horizon was terminated, it was about time that our new route was finished as well. We spent days moving up and down our vertical production platform commencing our own clean-up operation and plugging away at the insufferable cliff. But even after the route was finally finished, it was left unclimbed. Finally in mid July of 2010 as the Gulf oil spill was finally capped off, it was time to cap off our route with a proper ground up ascent. And thus Spoil Ill was born. We started early in the morning July 20 to beat the scorching heat of EWA, but an opportune cloud cover kept temps perfect for sending. Overall we found interesting and sustained face climbing on better than average rock for the Goose Egg. This great moderate route makes a fun alternative to Ride the Lightning or The Commandho Pillar. To all you Gooseeggafarians: Enjoy! So here's the beta: The route starts 100' feet to the left of Ride the Lightning. Take 13 draws and a very small rack — .4-2.5". The pitches spill out like this: P1: 130', 5.7, 9 bolts; Excellent and straightforward edgy face climbing with a short crux. P2: 100', 5.8, 7 bolts + gear; More fun face climbing following a seam that occasionally takes pro. P3: 100', 5.10c, 13 bolts + gear; Superb thin and sustained face climbing, very well protected with bolts on a LFC, contains a lower crux. A small roof is avoided by traversing right to a rest stance, then more tweaky face encountered above. Gear is optional in the last 15 feet. P4: 80', 5.9, 4 bolts + gear; Traverses left from the belay toward a small roof. Establishing under the roof and clipping the 2nd bolt is the crux. Easy climbing above leads up and left to a false anchor. Clip this, and continue up the corner 15 feet, then climb out left up a dirty crack with a hidden bolt on the left face. 3 spread-out bolts make the belay. P5: 150', 5.10a, 7 bolts + gear; Climbs out left then up a gully system, out right onto a face, then back left into the gully. One run-out easier section (probably needs another bolt) is encountered. p6: 150', 5.0, gear; a pleasant and easy gully is followed straight up to the top, where it ends in a typical pile of loose blocks. Exit left to intersect the trail down to the rappel route, or continue up to walk off. And here are some pics: Looking up at the first 3.5 pitches of Spoil Ill from the base. Follow the bolts! Me leading the first pitch with really cool roofs above. Stoney setting out on pitch 2. Me leading pitch 3 — the highlight of the route. Looking down from the top of pitch 3. The route comes up the dark gray rock below. Stoney coming up the upper crux of pitch 3. Stoney leading through the roof on pitch 4. Me poking my head over the same roof. The Ride the Lightning dihedral can be seen across the face. Looking down from the top of pitch 5. Top-out views of Kloochman Rock. An overview of the routes on the Egg. Click here for larger version.
  4. [TR] Goose Egg - Spoil ill 7/20/2010

    Kevin - I didn't realize there wasn't a topo in there. The route is on the right wall of the Dirty Sanchez arete. Head up a nondescript pitch of class 4 in the big bowl to a set of bolt anchors near the wall. The real climbing starts with the 'Shock' pitch - 5.10a (all bolts)- that goes up the wall, then traverses left to a ledge. Next is the 'Awe' pitch - 5.10c - a 180' crack (variable size), to another set of anchors. A short easy crack leads back up onto Dirty Sanchez at the base of the short bolted face. Take gear to 3" and don't be surprised to find a bit of typical Goose Egg nastiness...
  5. [TR] Goose Egg - Spoil ill 7/20/2010

    I think Shock and Awe is in Yoder's Tieton book isn't it? I don't have a copy in front of me. As for Ignorant Bliss, it goes up the large pillar to the left of the Spoil Ill amphitheater and pretty much stays on the pillar to the top (the first pitch starts in the LFC that forms the left base of the pillar). 1st pitch is the crux (5.10), then many bolted pitches of 5.8-5.9 above. Should be pretty easy to follow. Best to stay off the unbolted and loose last pitch and exit right via Spoil Ill gully or go down the ledge left to Gangsta Rap.
  6. Lost Cam on Hyperspace

    .5 Camalot with Trango Superfly biner, plus BD quickdraw on last pitch. Would be great if you could get back to me, otherwise, enjoy the booty. Edit: Looks like cam is stuck for a while. Hopefully it will come out someday...
  7. Trip: FA of Jobo Rinjang, Nepal - Date: 5/5/2009 Trip Report: Hey all, David Gottlieb and I just had a fun adventure in the Himalaya of Nepal. We spent 40 days out and about, first on a cool acclimatization trek, then a climb of Kyajo Ri, then finally our efforts turned toward the unclimbed 6,778-meter Jobo Rinjang. Check out a full account of our adventures on our Climb Nepal Blog. Here a few images from the Jobo Rinjang climb: Approaching Jobo Rinjang: Our line up the south face: A couple shots of David climbing On the summit:
  8. Hey Sobo, Stoney and I were out on it over 3 weeks ago. There was no snow to speak of on the entirety of the Egg. Rock was dry (besides a snow squall that came and went) and temps were nice. Because it's south facing and well east of the crest, it tends to dry out very quickly. For this reason, it's been climbed every single month of the year. Go get some!
  9. Had some fun in Nepal this winter. David Gottlieb and I made the first peak ascent of Takargo (6,771 meters) in the Rolwaling Himal. In addition to the peak we got to do a bunch of ice-climbing and live in a small Sherpa village. We pretty much had a fantastic 2-month trip. If you'd like to see more pics and read about the adventure, check out our blog: www.climbnepal.blogspot.com Here's a couple shots from the trip: Takargo from the East: David leading some ice up high: David leading below the summit ridge: Crossing the summit ridge to the summit:
  10. Takargo FA, Nepal

    Check out these short video clips from the climb: [video:vimeo]10827427 [video:vimeo]10827842 [video:vimeo]10827886
  11. Takargo FA, Nepal

    Cool thnaks. We stayed far to the right of the ice cliff. We were never in danger of it.
  12. Nepal Ice

    Found some cool ice in Nepal: Y'all should go get some. More at http://climbnepal.blogspot.com/2010/03/rolwaling-ice-climbing-asias-beyul-of.html
  13. Cilo or Wildthings..Graham... anyone?

    Cilo's are awesome. Here are two overloaded 45L's ready to go for an 8 day adventure. Quite comfy all things considered. Wore the pack for nearly 45 days straight with no major complaints other than carrying a pack for nearly 45 days straight. The fit for both of us was spot on. David had a large (he's tall - 6'2" with long torso) and I a medium, and with lighter loads we could easily swap packs. They just seem to fit no matter what the exact size. There doesn't seem to be a lot to adjusting the fit of the packs; for us they were pretty much good to go when we got them.
  14. Cool, Thanks guys. No, there was very little snow. It was a very dry winter in Nepal. Most of the peaks were showing tons of blue ice. Our climb of Kyajo Ri was all ice, when we expected mostly snow. Also, the cornices faced north. Rockfall was the major concern. Yes it works with ropes that are maybe <8.5 mm. We had Sterling 8.4's, which worked great for this. I've tried it with 8.6's and it was tough, but it probably depends on the rope.
  15. Puryear/Gottlieb Slideshow - Kang Nachugo 3/12/09

    Hope to see you all there tonight!
  16. Trip: Kang Nachugo, Rolwaling Valley, Nepal - South Face to West Ridge Date: 10/17/2008 Trip Report: Hello CC friends, David Gottieb and I just returned from an incredible journey in the Nepal Himalaya. We spent 47 days making the beautiful journey through the Rolwaling and Khumbu valleys, climbing peaks and having a great time. Our main objective was the unclimbed Kang Nachugo (6,735 meters) in the center of the Rolwaling Valley. We made the first ascent of the peak over 5 days, summitting on October 17th. I've posted a full trip report on our Climb Nepal blog: www.climbnepal.blogspot.com. Check it out. Here are a few pictures from the trip: David looking out toward Kang Nachugo: David leading on the South Face: David following snow flutings gaining the ridge crest: David on the ridge crest: View from the summit of Cho-Oyu, the Khumbu region, Mt. Everest, and Lhotse:
  17. Hey, thanks for the replies. I'm finally back from Nepal and have had a chance to sort through a few more pictures. I've posted over 40 more images on my blog: www.climbnepal.blogspot.com. Check em out. Here are a couple to share here: Nepali Children in the small town of Jagart on day 2 of our approach. The Sherpa settlement of Beding. Gauri Shankar and the Rolwaling Valley - Beding can be seen at the base of the peak to the right of the river. David on the summit of Parchamo. A porter heading over Tesi Laptsa Pass.
  18. [TR] leavenworth - pencil 1/19/2007

    More like every 3 seconds... Ken, we were surprised at how wide it was too, having always thought it to be more of a pillar. The ice was really shitty though, and as Cappellini pointed out - probably about ready to detach and fall down. Shitty ice in Washington? Sorry for being redundant.
  19. [TR] leavenworth - pencil 1/19/2007

    Okay, here's the story Here's a little video from last year... ermY202UpMs P.S. I got the date wrong on the video but WTF cares?
  20. Pictures requested: East Butt SEWS and Mt. Index

    nah its digital - 7.2 MP. Looks fine at about 8"X6" at 300 dpi.
  21. Pictures requested: East Butt SEWS and Mt. Index

    Not overly high quality, but good beta for the north face route...
  22. I believe that is a Banditos hanger - there were quite a few of them. Luckily the one at the crux of Grandfather Hobgoblin had been replaced. Let's just call that one old-skewl 5.9. I was down there for most of March and part of April - had to fly back in the middle to do the slide show at Feathered Friends...
  23. Help with TR

    I'm trying to post a rather lengthy TR with lots of pictures. Everything shows up fine in the preview, but when it is posted, it cuts out the last several pics and text. Is there a size limit to posts? There actually isn't a lot of text and all of the pictures are linked from my CC gallery. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance. (I tried the little help ticket thing, but nobody is responding.)
  24. Help with TR

    Its kind of like the Goose Egg - only not. Nice video of RTL btw - laughed all the way through...