real bouldering guide

[dyno_merchant]

I just looked at the smoots "work in progress" bouldering guide on his web site.

 

Wow!!!

 

Boulderers unite and show the world that we aren't caught in the seventies!!! (check the guide on his site to see what I'm talking about)

 

Please send him photos and info so that we can step into the year 2002!!!!!!!

[Cpt.Caveman]

Although I never had beef with him he was always friendly to me, I think that a lot of data in his books is not correct. Too bad since it would be great to have one consolidated book.. Oh well.

[Dru]

How come back in the 80s Smoot was a super duper lycra wearing sport is cool guy, and now hes pretending hes old skool talking about WAY BACK IN THE DAY WE DIDNT CALL THIS ROCK THIS NAME, WE CALLED IT THAT NAME AND WE DID ALL THOSE PROBLEMS BUT WE WERE TO COOL TO NAME EM stuff????

 

Bouldering guides are lame anyways. You see a problem you try it. If you can climb it fine if not then no worries. Recording bouldering first ascents is even dumber. I say all a 'bouldering guide' should have is a name and a STAR RATING!!! for each problem

[Cpt.Caveman]

You can contrive anything to a bouldering problem by elminating holds etc.

 

I am with Dru, make it good or not worth doing. B1-3 would not be bad. 3 levels of difficulty...

[specialed]

quote:

---

Originally posted by dyno merchant:

I just looked at the smoots "work in progress" bouldering guide on his web site.

 

Wow!!!

 

Boulderers unite and show the world that we aren't caught in the seventies!!! (check the guide on his site to see what I'm talking about)

 

Please send him photos and info so that we can step into the year 2002!!!!!!!

---

You've got it backwards choad merchant. Boulderings about as 70's as Britney Spears. Just like Britney its a hip new fad that just won't be hip in a couple years. Y'all will be moving onto something else like piercing your scrotum or sumthin.

[Dru]

quote:

---

Originally posted by specialed:

quote:

---

Originally posted by dyno merchant:

I just looked at the smoots "work in progress" bouldering guide on his web site.

 

Wow!!!

 

Boulderers unite and show the world that we aren't caught in the seventies!!! (check the guide on his site to see what I'm talking about)

 

Please send him photos and info so that we can step into the year 2002!!!!!!!

---

You've got it backwards choad merchant. Boulderings about as 70's as Britney Spears. Just like Britney its a hip new fad that just won't be hip in a couple years. Y'all will be moving onto something else like piercing your scrotum or sumthin.

---

Scrotum holes are oldskool. Grafting your scrotum onto your forehead is where itz at.

[Cpt.Caveman]

I though it was the mania of grafting your foresking on your forehead

[specialed]

The hip thing is a chain from your pierced scrotum to your tongue ring. But its not as hip as the puppy porno cam.

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by specialed:

The hip thing is a chain from your pierced scrotum to your tongue ring. But its not as hip as the puppy porno cam.

---

You could chain your scrotum to a dog in heat and then you could be on the puppy cam too....

 

Man I came by this goat farm on my way back to the office... talk about horny...

 

Those goats got all sorts of equipment dragging on the ground.

 

Must be the hormones in the feed....

[sk]

Ever heard of Pan???

 

Greek god of all you boys love. Sexy hunneys, mind altering herbs, he liked to Party. Half goat. NO accident. Plus he could Climb like a goat.... Hmmmm does the KTK have a logo??? Maybe you should.....

 

[ 04-26-2002, 04:37 PM: Message edited by: sk ]

[allthumbs]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Dru:

Originally posted by specialed:

[qb]

 

Man I came by this goat farm on my way back to the office... talk about horny...

 

Those goats got all sorts of equipment dragging on the ground.

 

Must be the hormones in the feed....

take some pictures...Caveman digs thoses kinds of pictures. Ever seen the paintings at his apartment??

[specialed]

quote:

---

Originally posted by sk:

Ever heard of Pan???

 

Greek god of all you boys love. Sexy hunneys, mind altering herbs, he liked to Party. Half goat. NO accident. Plus he could Climb like a goat.... Hmmmm does the KTK have a logo??? Maybe you should.....

---

The KTK was framed for a crime they didn't commit, and are always on the run from the law. They are mercenaries for hire - they help out the people nobody else can help. Half the time they don't even bother to charge for their services. If you're in trouble, maybe you can find...The KTK. No logos the KTK doesn't even officially exist

[sk]

lighten up. I just think pan rocks, and you guys make me laugh.

[Jens]

Back to the topic..

 

Jeff Smoot does the best rock guides around here both historically and at present. They may not make the most sense sitting on your sofa, but they make a lot of sense when you are at the crags. I really like the mini paragraph with a bit of trivia about routes.

 

As for bouldering. It's cool and I dig it but bouldering guides are lame. Sharma's got it right on the money. No need to assign a number or rating to problems. The industry and mags hate it though. Numbers sell products.

[bigwalling]

I think some areas need guides. Washington is not one. Lots of the boulder problems around here get cleaned and then just get covered in moss. I think that hard routes should be recorded. Like anythind V6/V7 and up. But the easier routes are not worth being recorded. Just climb and have fun! Jake

[plexus]

para ti Bigwallin!

 

I've cleaned off huge gardens off some problems (but only on the problem, leave the remaining choss there like it was found). Bouldering is such a provincial sport, find a cool problem, share it with your friends, they tell their friends, etc. Go back to a problem two years after you pulled and its a whole new problem again, how did I get to that two-finger pocket?, What was the sequence?

 

Besides guides are difficult to decipher for bouldering; "Start right hand on sloping ledge, left foot tiny smear..." What the F***?! ¿Which smear?

 

I love bouldering. It's a great workout, it's perfect when you only have a short window to crank...but it's only one part of my climbing, trad, alpine and, gulp, sometimes I clip bolts. A guide is useful for the other three but I enjoy going out blindly to a field of boulders and finding out for myself, en vez de, The Devil's Scrotum, V5, Start with incut on right....

 

BTW, the best thing about Mexico is with the keyboards down here, I can do ¡this! or was it ¿this?

 

Nos vemos!

[dyno_merchant]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Dru:

????

 

Bouldering guides are lame anyways. You see a problem you try it. If you can climb it fine if not then no worries. Recording bouldering first ascents is even dumber. I say all a 'bouldering guide' should have is a name and a

STAR RATING!!! for each problem

---

Route guides are lame anyways. You see a route you try it. If you can climb it fine if not then no worries. Recording route first ascents is even dumber. I say all a 'route guide' should have is a name and a STAR RATING!!! for each route. (if it works for bouldering then it works for routes...why is one more worthy of a guide than another? The size of the rock your climbing? Where does it start and end...)

[Dru]

quote:

---

Originally posted by dyno merchant:

quote:

---

Originally posted by Dru:

????

 

Bouldering guides are lame anyways. You see a problem you try it. If you can climb it fine if not then no worries. Recording bouldering first ascents is even dumber. I say all a 'bouldering guide' should have is a name and a

STAR RATING!!! for each problem

---

Route guides are lame anyways. You see a route you try it. If you can climb it fine if not then no worries. Recording route first ascents is even dumber. I say all a 'route guide' should have is a name and a STAR RATING!!! for each route. (if it works for bouldering then it works for routes...why is one more worthy of a guide than another? The size of the rock your climbing? Where does it start and end...)

---

Bouldering has no consequences for failure and hence does not require as much info as, say, a 15 pitch route that you cannot scope out from the base.

[dyno_merchant]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Dru:

Originally posted by dyno merchant:

[qb]

Originally posted by Dru:

[qb]????

 

Bouldering has no consequences for failure and hence does not require as much info as, say, a 15 pitch route that you cannot scope out from the base.

I'm not sure where you boulder... but not all problems/boulders are easy to find or are 10 feet tall with perfect landings. Some problems can have very dangerous landings or questionable quality rock (some of this you might not know from looking at a problem). Oh... and when you boulder, everytime you fall you hit the ground regardless of the above mentioned dangers (sounds like a posibility for serious consequences for failure). Guide books can answer some of these questions and grades can tell you if the risk of danger is to great for your ability or not... just like guides for routes do.

 

why do people think that just because someone is bouldering there is no danger?

[dyno_merchant]

Why is it such a big deal to produce a bouldering guide for areas in Washington? Why can't a guide be produced for the sole reason of helping people find areas that have awesome problems?

 

Isn't that why we have hiking guidebooks around the world - so we can find and hike a spectacular trail? Why can't guides for bouldering be done in the same spirit? What's wrong with finding a great boulder or boulder problem and sharing it? Is finding one and sharing it any different than finding a great trail or route and sharing them?

 

What gives...

[Dru]

quote:

---

Originally posted by dyno merchant:

quote:

---

Originally posted by Dru:

Originally posted by dyno merchant:

[qb]

Originally posted by Dru:

[qb]????

 

Bouldering has no consequences for failure and hence does not require as much info as, say, a 15 pitch route that you cannot scope out from the base.

I'm not sure where you boulder... but not all problems/boulders are easy to find or are 10 feet tall with perfect landings. Some problems can have very dangerous landings or questionable quality rock (some of this you might not know from looking at a problem). Oh... and when you boulder, everytime you fall you hit the ground regardless of the above mentioned dangers (sounds like a posibility for serious consequences for failure). Guide books can answer some of these questions and grades can tell you if the risk of danger is to great for your ability or not... just like guides for routes do.

 

why do people think that just because someone is bouldering there is no danger?

bouldering is a social sport with large quantities of spotters and pads and no danger. you never gonna fail on a boulder problem cause you didnt know you needed two #4.5 Camalots for the 9th belay.

[Lambone]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Dru:

quote:

---

Originally posted by specialed:

quote:

---

Originally posted by dyno merchant:

I just looked at the smoots "work in progress" bouldering guide on his web site.

 

Wow!!!

 

Boulderers unite and show the world that we aren't caught in the seventies!!! (check the guide on his site to see what I'm talking about)

 

Please send him photos and info so that we can step into the year 2002!!!!!!!

---

You've got it backwards choad merchant. Boulderings about as 70's as Britney Spears. Just like Britney its a hip new fad that just won't be hip in a couple years. Y'all will be moving onto something else like piercing your scrotum or sumthin.

---

Scrotum holes are oldskool. Grafting your scrotum onto your forehead is where itz at.

---

I just thought it'd be cool to have three quoted posts within mine...

[jkrueger]

quote:

---

Originally posted by dyno merchant:

Why is it such a big deal to produce a bouldering guide for areas in Washington? Why can't a guide be produced for the sole reason of helping people find areas that have awesome problems?

 

Isn't that why we have hiking guidebooks around the world - so we can find and hike a spectacular trail? Why can't guides for bouldering be done in the same spirit? What's wrong with finding a great boulder or boulder problem and sharing it? Is finding one and sharing it any different than finding a great trail or route and sharing them?

 

What gives...

---

It has been my experience that people who find boulders that are worth climbing like to keep the info to themselves and a few trusted friends for as long as possible. They'll let you know it exists, and maybe what's there, but not where it is.

 

Damn, I want to know where those boulders are! But can you blame them for not telling? As soon as word gets out the place is sure to be overcome with people, and the area suffers the consequences: rap-bolted boulder problems, top rope anchors, litter, noise, traffic, erosion, people, dogs, kids, etc. Before you know it, a pristine natural setting is turned into something completely different. This is, of course, an extreme analysis, but this is the fear that I think most people have of letting word of their secret spot slip out.

 

It's the fear of that one lame person out there that ruins it for the rest of us responsible and interested climbers. I think publishing a guidebook is like the kiss of death for an area, forever changing what it is and what it will be.

[Country_Jake]

The kiss of death.... I agree with you on that one... I hate climbing with a bunch of people, espesaly on a boulder... in fact I seek out thoses spots that haven't been publisized, or at lease you don't hear a ton about... climbing with out that 70s butt aholic is where i'm going...

[erik]

quote:

---

Originally posted by dyno merchant:

Why is it such a big deal to produce a bouldering guide for areas in Washington? Why can't a guide be produced for the sole reason of helping people find areas that have awesome problems?

 

Isn't that why we have hiking guidebooks around the world - so we can find and hike a spectacular trail? Why can't guides for bouldering be done in the same spirit? What's wrong with finding a great boulder or boulder problem and sharing it? Is finding one and sharing it any different than finding a great trail or route and sharing them?

 

What gives...

---

dyno, you are wrong to compare bouldering wihth hijking.....first of all the trails are alreadyt there and are managed(well suppossedly) by the deforrest service.

 

the trails and they 'damage' that it took to create them has been done, and hopfully it was done with the idea of as little impact as possible. whereas your pad toting little buddies will trample anything to reach a boulder, they will remove vegatation and stomp all over the plant life that resides at the base....this is all new with little consideration of the enviroemtn surronding it. i know that the blm is studying boulder base impact in the bishop area. and from what i see on thier website the impact is serve....too bad you boulders didnt hypew this shit 10yrs ago when it could have been grandfathered in.....

 

either way have fun and dont f$%k up the enviroment.....