Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi,

Has anyone climbed the route and can you tell me what the pro is like for the 5.11 crack and (5.10?) face above. This pitch is about at my lead limit ,with good pro, so anyone got info?

thanks, N. grin.gif

  • Replies 22
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Posted

Fingers to hands. Yellow TCUs and Aliens were nice. It is a clean solid crack. Enjoy. Are you going up this weekend? Wear a ski goggles.

Posted

news in winter ... hmmm.

 

The standard descent off of news involves three full length raps down a tight slot, then a loose gully, then the free hanging rap off a giant boulder.

 

Does anyone know if this descent route has been done as a winter ice/mixed climb? It looks like it would be really sweet if it ices up.

Posted

jja:

 

I did the Early Winters Couloir as a winter mixed route. This is the east facing gulley between the North and South Early Winter Spires. We descended the decent route by plunge stepping. The decent route would not be much of a challenge as a climb.

Posted

nlunstrum,

 

the real crux is short and right off of where we (and i assume most people) put the belay. i remember it being small wires and green or blue alien size...but pretty much wires. once you get above the thin bit, it eases off considerably and you can definitely get good pro.

 

 

cheers, todd

Posted

As I recall, the crux pitch is not too long -- maybe 30 feet or so? At least, the hard part is rather short. The pitch above that is straightforward for 5.10.

 

The route overall is steep and exposed, on mainly good rock. Some of the sections getting up TO the crux entail exciting climbing on short, wide, harder to protect sections.

Posted

Riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight . . . . . confused.gif

 

I do know some folks who climbed the West Face route and the NW Corner route in the same day (the routes share the same start).

 

It would be easy to climb the West Face route, rap off, and cruise up the South Arete of SEWS the same day.

 

Another cool enchainment is what we call "The Battle of Lexington and Concord":

 

1) Hike up Beckey gully on Liberty Bell

2) Climb Beckey Route and rap back into notch

3) Climb N Face Concord (with all your gear, boots, etc)

4) Rap into notch between Concord and Lexington

5 Climb N Face Lexington and rap south face

6) Descend deep scree into Blue Lake Basin

 

The whole thing goes at about 5.6, mostly easier. Makes for a fun day!

Posted

I climbed the NEWS by the easy route this summer in conjunction with a few other spires.

 

I cannot recally any tight rappels on the descent we took and there are bolts on the gigantic boulder setup.

303622-NEWS_WF.JPG.b85e85fab82709099c5580a76acd181f.JPG

Posted
Riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight . . . . . confused.gif

 

I do know some folks who climbed the West Face route and the NW Corner route in the same day (the routes share the same start).

 

It would be easy to climb the West Face route, rap off, and cruise up the South Arete of SEWS the same day.

 

Another cool enchainment is what we call "The Battle of Lexington and Concord":

 

1) Hike up Beckey gully on Liberty Bell

2) Climb Beckey Route and rap back into notch

3) Climb N Face Concord (with all your gear, boots, etc)

4) Rap into notch between Concord and Lexington

5 Climb N Face Lexington and rap south face

6) Descend deep scree into Blue Lake Basin

 

The whole thing goes at about 5.6, mostly easier. Makes for a fun day!

 

sounds like you've got the whole WA pass thing dialed bro

yelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gifyelrotflmao.gif

Posted
But who made the first "enchainment avec minuteman?"

 

And who's done the enchainment, including NEWS, solo?

 

And who's the black private dick that's a sex machine to all the chicks? SHAFT! cool.gif

  • 1 month later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...