nlunstrum Posted January 29, 2004 Share Posted January 29, 2004 Hi, Has anyone climbed the route and can you tell me what the pro is like for the 5.11 crack and (5.10?) face above. This pitch is about at my lead limit ,with good pro, so anyone got info? thanks, N. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CM3 Posted January 29, 2004 Share Posted January 29, 2004 Fingers to hands. Yellow TCUs and Aliens were nice. It is a clean solid crack. Enjoy. Are you going up this weekend? Wear a ski goggles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nlunstrum Posted January 29, 2004 Author Share Posted January 29, 2004 Oh no, hopefully this summer. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jja Posted January 29, 2004 Share Posted January 29, 2004 news in winter ... hmmm. Â The standard descent off of news involves three full length raps down a tight slot, then a loose gully, then the free hanging rap off a giant boulder. Â Does anyone know if this descent route has been done as a winter ice/mixed climb? It looks like it would be really sweet if it ices up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted January 29, 2004 Share Posted January 29, 2004 jja: Â I did the Early Winters Couloir as a winter mixed route. This is the east facing gulley between the North and South Early Winter Spires. We descended the decent route by plunge stepping. The decent route would not be much of a challenge as a climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miller Posted January 29, 2004 Share Posted January 29, 2004 nlunstrum, Â the real crux is short and right off of where we (and i assume most people) put the belay. i remember it being small wires and green or blue alien size...but pretty much wires. once you get above the thin bit, it eases off considerably and you can definitely get good pro. Â Â cheers, todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted January 29, 2004 Share Posted January 29, 2004 Â A picture by Off White I believe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted January 29, 2004 Share Posted January 29, 2004 As I recall, the crux pitch is not too long -- maybe 30 feet or so? At least, the hard part is rather short. The pitch above that is straightforward for 5.10. Â The route overall is steep and exposed, on mainly good rock. Some of the sections getting up TO the crux entail exciting climbing on short, wide, harder to protect sections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted January 29, 2004 Share Posted January 29, 2004 The whole route is like one pitch or something. If you're hiking up there, might as well plan on ticking off another route or five while you're at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted January 29, 2004 Share Posted January 29, 2004 Riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight . . . . .  I do know some folks who climbed the West Face route and the NW Corner route in the same day (the routes share the same start).  It would be easy to climb the West Face route, rap off, and cruise up the South Arete of SEWS the same day.  Another cool enchainment is what we call "The Battle of Lexington and Concord":  1) Hike up Beckey gully on Liberty Bell 2) Climb Beckey Route and rap back into notch 3) Climb N Face Concord (with all your gear, boots, etc) 4) Rap into notch between Concord and Lexington 5 Climb N Face Lexington and rap south face 6) Descend deep scree into Blue Lake Basin  The whole thing goes at about 5.6, mostly easier. Makes for a fun day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 30, 2004 Share Posted January 30, 2004 I climbed the NEWS by the easy route this summer in conjunction with a few other spires. Â I cannot recally any tight rappels on the descent we took and there are bolts on the gigantic boulder setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billygoat Posted January 30, 2004 Share Posted January 30, 2004 Can anybody confirm that rating on " The Battle of Lexington and Concord"? Sounds like a blast! Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabertooth Posted January 30, 2004 Share Posted January 30, 2004 The North Face of Lexington has a 5.7 mantle on it, the rest of the "Battle" should be 5.6. That does sound like fun. Hmmm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted January 30, 2004 Share Posted January 30, 2004 Riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight . . . . .  I do know some folks who climbed the West Face route and the NW Corner route in the same day (the routes share the same start).  It would be easy to climb the West Face route, rap off, and cruise up the South Arete of SEWS the same day.  Another cool enchainment is what we call "The Battle of Lexington and Concord":  1) Hike up Beckey gully on Liberty Bell 2) Climb Beckey Route and rap back into notch 3) Climb N Face Concord (with all your gear, boots, etc) 4) Rap into notch between Concord and Lexington 5 Climb N Face Lexington and rap south face 6) Descend deep scree into Blue Lake Basin  The whole thing goes at about 5.6, mostly easier. Makes for a fun day!  sounds like you've got the whole WA pass thing dialed bro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted January 30, 2004 Share Posted January 30, 2004 I believe that SEF climbed Liberty Bell, Concord Tower, Lexington Tower, NEWS and SEWS all in a day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted January 30, 2004 Share Posted January 30, 2004 I believe that SEF climbed Liberty Bell, Concord Tower, Lexington Tower, NEWS and SEWS all in a day. Â Aint that the idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 31, 2004 Share Posted January 31, 2004 But who made the first "enchainment avec minuteman?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mtguide Posted February 1, 2004 Share Posted February 1, 2004 Hmmm,now that would be a nice long rappel... Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nlunstrum Posted February 2, 2004 Author Share Posted February 2, 2004 Thanks all! Looks like a great route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 2, 2004 Share Posted February 2, 2004 I climbed the NEWS by the easy route this summer in conjunction with a few other spires. Â stellar pic Caveman!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted February 2, 2004 Share Posted February 2, 2004 But who made the first "enchainment avec minuteman?" Â And who's done the enchainment, including NEWS, solo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 2, 2004 Share Posted February 2, 2004 But who made the first "enchainment avec minuteman?" Â And who's done the enchainment, including NEWS, solo? Â And who's the black private dick that's a sex machine to all the chicks? SHAFT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted March 6, 2004 Share Posted March 6, 2004 You're damn right! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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