Jump to content

CM3

Members
  • Content count

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About CM3

  • Rank
    stranger
  1. Used The North Face Baltoro Down Jacket. Size Mens Medium. A fully-baffled goose down mountaineering jacket designed for Himalayan and Alaskan climbing. Insulated with 700 fill goose down hand filled into 33 separate chambers for extraordinary warmth, lightness and compressibility. Has Detachable baffled hood, two interior mesh water bottle pockets and a Dryloft shell. Weight 1.19k email for questions: chrismudry@hotmail.com
  2. W.Face of N. EarlyWinters Spire"

    Fingers to hands. Yellow TCUs and Aliens were nice. It is a clean solid crack. Enjoy. Are you going up this weekend? Wear a ski goggles.
  3. Rope for glacier?

    I have a new with tags 8.8 Sterling Marathon double dry dynamic 50 meter rope I will sell for $90. I can meet in Mount Vernon, Bellingham or Cascade Crags for exchange.
  4. viper ice tool question

    Yeah I have been doing some shadow swinging in the apartment and the little male attachment has a quiet twak. I can imagine it will be louder actually hitting the ice.
  5. viper ice tool question

    Have you ever climbed with the Viper fangs and the android leash on at the same time, for finger protection on bulging ice. Is that cheating? I got the Viper, android and fang setup this season, but I have not used them on ice yet. I have swung Quarks before, are the Vipers similar?
  6. Patagonia DAS Parka for sale

    Patagonia homepage has NEW DAS parkas on web special for $150. They have all sizes except extra small.
  7. I got two of these and they are the same color (olive) and I can't figure how I am going to climb with double rope technique with same colored ropes. So I am selling one for what I paid for it. $100 you pay shipping, or if you want to meet in Mount Vernon we can transfer there. It would be a perfect glacier rope or if you want to get one of your ropes for double rope technique.
  8. early morning spire

    How were the mice? I hear they are really bad on Baker.....
  9. Drove in on the 20th of July. Log crossing was fine, typical overgrown, tree slaps to the face, seep ass trail to the Price lake. The upper ridge has some snow on it, we camped below the last big rocky hump on some slab/dirt next to a snow finger that led to the glacier. Approach time was 3 hours. Left camp on the 21st at 5:00 a.m. and started to head up the glacier. We were doing fine till the shrunds. We thought we could pick a line on the left side of them but it was too hairball. We ended up climbing some unpleasent 5.7 rock on the left of the shrunds and connected with the couloir in the lower 3rd of the chute. Couloir got seep and thin, axe punched through a couple of times. We protected it with some pickets for the steep traversing to the rock. Got on the rock at 8:30 a.m. Rock was pretty solid down low but got more loose as we approached the gulley. We took one old 60 meter rope and a bunch of booty gear we had collected over the years, in case we had to bail. The nuts were useless and would recommed pitons instead. Solid constrictions were hard to come by, but the climbing was not very difficult. Summited at 11:30 a.m. Started the long way down with several rappels and some down climbing. There are bail/rap anchors everywhere. Some shitty looking, some really shitty looking. We backed up about 40% of them and prayed during the other 60%. All we kept thinking about was the shrunds. We did not want to go down the way we went up. We decided to go down the opposite side of the shrunds (climbers right). We down climbed the steep snow to the rock bench and found a one piton ancient anchor and rapped into the shrund and climbed out using the rappel as a sort/of top rope. The rope was soaked and dirty. The rappel was difficult and grose with all the shit comming out of the rappel device hitting my belly button then going down my crotch. Made it back to camp by 6:00 p.m. Back at the car by 8:30 p.m. If you want to get away from the crowds, give Nooksack a try.
  10. Hey I am in Mount Vernon, want to climb either N. Ridge of Baker (2 days) S Face of Prusik (2 days) N Face of Shuksan (2 days) Nooksack Tower (3 days) Mount Goodie (4 days with the hike: no ferry!!) Drop me a line of your email or phone number and we can hook up during this high pressure system. Out of shape stoners need not apply. Thanks for looking
  11. Stuart North Ridge TR

    The SGC had a shrund at the base and looked like a narrow mixed snow and rock route. Snow at the base and rock at the top.
  12. Stuart North Ridge TR

    I don't know what the packs weighed. About as light as you could go with a planned bivy though. We did not bring a haul line. We pulled the rope through the gear and dropped an end and hauled, then dropped the rope for the second.
  13. Stuart North Ridge TR

    June 15th Approached via Stuart Lake trailhead and Mountaineer Creek to North Ridge notch. Hiking time was 6 hours, snow encountered in the swamp below the bowl. Snow conditions were perfect, able to kick steps with wimpy leather boots until the upper glacier and then crampons were needed. We packed light, no tent, bivy sack, pad, fleece coat or pants, gaiters, poles, or gore-tex. Only bivy gear we had was light down bags, a space blanket, and a pocket rocket canister stove with a titanium pot. The gulley to the notch was snowed in and steeper than I remembered. We found a great bivy spot up and around the corner that provided dry and wind free conditions. Most of the bivy ledges are snow covered. Used a snow drift drip to get water, did not need the stove to melt snow. NO BUGS!! We slept on the rope, runners and packs for a decent night sleep. June 16th Woke up at 5:00 a.m. started climbing by 6:00 a.m. The ridge mostly snow free, all snow was avoidable until... the crack slab near the end of the upper ridge to the gendarme was a sheet of snow. 40-degree kick stepping in rock shoes and ice axe for 50 feet got us back on the dry ridge, which led us to the gendarme. The gendarme was dry and clean, we hauled packs on both 5.9 pitches. The offwidth pitch has an over cammed #4 Camalot that is welded in the middle of the pitch. More climbing and traversing took us to the summit. We descended the Sherpa Glacier with much glissading. We lost the trail heading out and thrashed in swamp and brush for an hour being eaten alive by mosquitoes. Arrived back at the car by 5:00 p.m. and had to push start the car because the starter had a bad connection. Weather and snow conditions were perfect. The Sherpa Glacier is in good shape, but won't be for long. The lower North Ridge looked dry and snow free. The Northwest Face had snow slabs below and above the "Perfect Crack" dihedral. Ice Cliff Glacier is still in good shape, Girth Pillar had a patch of snow on the top of it, but the cracks and face looked dry. It was a great trip and a stellar route. Best part, no crowds!!
  14. MJ Dihedral

    Did Captin Caveman climb MJ dihedral yesterday afternoon/night??
  15. Forbidden Peak West Ridge TR

    East Ridge looked dry. Cascade River Road is gated around the 22 mile marker, you have to hike about 2 miles to get to the trail head.
×