skyclimb Posted January 17, 2004 Share Posted January 17, 2004 I am curious, I have seen cited on this site(test pieces for the grade) and all over the internet Light on the Path as Smith being graded at 10a. The guidebook refers to it as .9 though. I have climbed it many times, and partners of mine have as well. We have all though of it as a 9, so what gives? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted January 17, 2004 Share Posted January 17, 2004 Always viewed it as a 10a. Mebbe I'm just a pussy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted January 17, 2004 Share Posted January 17, 2004 just that starting move. I'd call the first move off the deck 10a. The rest is skinny 9. The upper section seems a little thin if you go by smith nubbin 9's. It's def. thinner than that 9 to the left. so maybe that's 8 and buckets is 4th class. Whatever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 17, 2004 Share Posted January 17, 2004 5.?fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlympicMtnBoy Posted January 17, 2004 Share Posted January 17, 2004 I think it used to be a 9, but the bottom bit eroded and some of the holds broke off, and now it's a 10a start. Check the guidbook update for more info, I think there's something about it in there. I climbed it maybe six or seven years ago, and then again in September last year and it seemed harder then. That or I'm weaker. Hehe, or both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted January 17, 2004 Share Posted January 17, 2004 Let me just check my NEW SMITH ROCK GUIDE here.... Â Yup, .10a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted January 17, 2004 Share Posted January 17, 2004 Yo Nick - .9d. WTF dude?!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted January 17, 2004 Share Posted January 17, 2004 wtf are you talking about 9 or 10a who cares!!!!! any criplle midget with aids and dozen donkeys strapped to it's balls should crank such a grade off the couch. what a bunch of bored wankers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted January 18, 2004 Share Posted January 18, 2004 Bob...you need to chill...not everyone has their life revolving around climbing...If 9+ is at your limit this discussion is as valid as whether scarface is 8b or 8b+... Â Climbing is such a great sport...no matter what your level or athleticism may be, you can find that route out there that is just hard enough to push you, but not shut you down... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted January 18, 2004 Share Posted January 18, 2004 (edited) rudy,i can buy your argument. but then why argue about the grade. like i don't really care if rude boys was dowgraded to 13b or is scarface 13d or 14a. that's exactly my point, go do it, enjoy. the moment people start argue about grades.....then i say, who cares. grades should give you an idea what you can or cannot do. so the same people who use argument it is not about numbers focus just on the grades. can't have it both ways Edited January 18, 2004 by glassgowkiss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted January 18, 2004 Share Posted January 18, 2004 faq-it! jump-awn-it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted January 18, 2004 Share Posted January 18, 2004 I'm not quite sure who "wants it both ways," but I DO think that overly focussing on route gradation has its downfalls - among them the fact that people who feel they need to climb the high numbers in order to think they accomplished anything on a given outing may overlook outstanding routes that are a few notches below their given grade. In addition, too much focus on grading can be limiting in the sense that we expect to fail on a climb rated even slightly over what we perceive to be our "limit" and this can be a bar to technical progress or the enjoyment of routes that are in fact within our grasp. I am sure there are some climbers who could climb "light on the path" if they were told it was 5.9, but will fail on it if it is called 5.10. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted January 18, 2004 Share Posted January 18, 2004 I agree matt, especially with the last situation. I was mired in a grade for a long time until someone (Rudy actually) told me to just jump on something and I nailed it. There really is truth in saying that climbing is 90% mental. I found that i jump of rather than fall 90% of the time even when i think i am falling, i really could have held on a little longer. Screw the rating I would say. If it looks good, possibly doable and has good enough gear, jumpawnit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyclimb Posted January 19, 2004 Author Share Posted January 19, 2004 Just curious if a hold broke off or something. Wasn't basing my life on 9 or 10a. But thanks for the help anyways Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted January 19, 2004 Share Posted January 19, 2004 was that cc.comr's on white satin yesterday. 4th class. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norsky Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 Just curious if a hold broke off or something. Wasn't basing my life on 9 or 10a. But thanks for the help anyways It used to start off to the left and traverse in through the huge huecos. You could hitch a candle stick or run it out to the first bolt. That was 5.9 Â Now it goes direct with a trickier start with a couple of extra bolts. That is 10a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyclimb Posted January 21, 2004 Author Share Posted January 21, 2004 Interesting, I assume that light on the path took its original line before the conception of 5 gallon? So most likely the new light on the path was created about the time that 5 gallon buckets was put up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norsky Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 Interesting, I assume that light on the path took its original line before the conception of 5 gallon? So most likely the new light on the path was created about the time that 5 gallon buckets was put up? 5 gallon was put up about 5 years before the direct start to Light. Wow, you have lots of questions about this route! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
assmonkey Posted January 21, 2004 Share Posted January 21, 2004 Let me just check my NEW SMITH ROCK GUIDE here.... Yup, .10a  Ok, assmonkey will bite.  Uhm, yeah, so where, exactly, did you procure the aforementioned "NEW SMITH ROCK GUIDE ?" This interests assmonkey. Is it out yet, soon? Or should I go ask this here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norsky Posted January 22, 2004 Share Posted January 22, 2004 Let me just check my NEW SMITH ROCK GUIDE here.... Yup, .10a  Ok, assmonkey will bite.  Uhm, yeah, so where, exactly, did you procure the aforementioned "NEW SMITH ROCK GUIDE ?" This interests assmonkey. Is it out yet, soon? Or should I go ask this here?  Just like with the 2000 election, you can either dwell on it and let it ruin your life, or you can focus on the future. There is no new Smith book and there never will be! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted January 22, 2004 Share Posted January 22, 2004 Is there some embargo on distribution in Washington? I've had my copy for several months now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norsky Posted January 22, 2004 Share Posted January 22, 2004 Is there some embargo on distribution in Washington? I've had my copy for several months now. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 25, 2004 Share Posted January 25, 2004 Is there some embargo on distribution in Washington? I've had my copy for several months now. Â Alan sent me a signed review copy. I have memorized it now, so $300 and its yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norsky Posted January 29, 2004 Share Posted January 29, 2004 Is there some embargo on distribution in Washington? I've had my copy for several months now. Â Alan sent me a signed review copy. I have memorized it now, so $300 and its yours. Â Put it on Ebay and it will go for twice that much...and it would be worth it. I think I'll just boulder until it comes out. I need the new book to get motivated via hours of flipping through it on the couch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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