Pencil_Pusher Posted November 4, 2003 Posted November 4, 2003 Picked up a copy at Pro Mountain Sports today, along with a 13cm Charlie Hoser screw (on clearance at $30). Of the book, hilarious and awesome. Good job for the two authors that put it all together and to all those that had the spirit and fortitude to find these areas. Even a few yahoos here are named in the book. I thought the intro and the references were awesome for the book. It's not just a "here's where to climb" book, but goes in to great detail on various aspects such as weather 101, helicopter 101, and how-to-clean-up-your-shit 101. I only got to browse through the routes a bit and I sure did like that one route on Pyramid Peak, "It ain't over yet, motherfuckers!" Good job guys Quote
Lambone Posted November 5, 2003 Posted November 5, 2003 ditto, I thumbed through it at FF. Very Impressive guide, best Ice guide I've seen. Although I didn't buy it because I no longer live in Washington and the day you see me travel to WA to climb ice is the day hell freezes over... Quote
Jens Posted November 5, 2003 Posted November 5, 2003 Lambone said: the day you see me travel to WA to climb ice is the day hell freezes over... We've got more running water and vertical than the other guys but sadly we haven't had the cold much in a long time. Give us the cold like we saw when I was younger and I'll never leave WA to ice climb. I remember living in Ellensburg and the national news had our town as being the coldest spot in the country for 5 days straight. Quote
Dane Posted November 5, 2003 Posted November 5, 2003 the day you see me travel to WA to climb ice is the day hell freezes over... I agree. Climbed some of what is mentioned in the book. Driven out to look at more and have often been dissappointed. Even living on the west side of the state it is still only one day's drive to Banff. If I want water ice I am going north and not wasting my time wishing the ice was good. Even the best ice conditions in Washington state (past or present) are some of the worse you'll ever see in Canada. Quote
Dru Posted November 5, 2003 Posted November 5, 2003 Jens said: Give us the cold like we saw when I was younger and I'll never leave WA to ice climb. I remember living in Ellensburg and the national news had our town as being the coldest spot in the country for 5 days straight. Average temps in PNW up 2 celsius since 1930's Another 1-4 C increase is forecast You are gonna be waiting a while! Quote
dbb Posted November 5, 2003 Posted November 5, 2003 Average temps in PNW up 2 celsius since 1930's but it's all about the outliers baby! Quote
cj001f Posted November 6, 2003 Posted November 6, 2003 Checked out a copy of the guide last night at Powells. Awesome job! Quote
David_Parker Posted November 6, 2003 Posted November 6, 2003 cj001f said: Checked out a copy of the guide last night at Powells. Awesome job! my only minor issue is that most of the climbs say "1 pitch" or "2 pitches". Me thinks a more accurate assessment in meters or feet would be nice. With ice climbers using anything from 50 to 70 meter ropes, what's a "pitch" these days? It would help me decide which rope to bring or how many screws to schlepp in on the approach! Quote
erik Posted November 6, 2003 Posted November 6, 2003 also more maps!! the one for the lennox mtn area is a good start. maps are way better then descriptions. Quote
cj001f Posted November 6, 2003 Posted November 6, 2003 David_Parker said:my only minor issue is that most of the climbs say "1 pitch" or "2 pitches". Me thinks a more accurate assessment in meters or feet would be nice. I agree, ft, m, something besides pitches would be nice - but it's a pain to get that information. Quote
sobo Posted November 6, 2003 Posted November 6, 2003 cj001f said: David_Parker said:my only minor issue is that most of the climbs say "1 pitch" or "2 pitches". Me thinks a more accurate assessment in meters or feet would be nice. I agree, ft, m, something besides pitches would be nice - but it's a pain to get that information. Well, check out the Chinook Pass area climbs... Quote
sobo Posted November 6, 2003 Posted November 6, 2003 Also, be aware that most of the top-outs at Strobach are mungy and require root-grabbing to get off the tops. Also, the early ascensionists (Norm, Larry, Yale, etc.) were equipped with 60m ropes. Quote
Alex Posted November 7, 2003 Posted November 7, 2003 David_Parker said: cj001f said: Checked out a copy of the guide last night at Powells. Awesome job! my only minor issue is that most of the climbs say "1 pitch" or "2 pitches". Me thinks a more accurate assessment in meters or feet would be nice. With ice climbers using anything from 50 to 70 meter ropes, what's a "pitch" these days? It would help me decide which rope to bring or how many screws to schlepp in on the approach! I hear you. We wrested with this early and there was quite a stuggle to agree on pitches, meters, or feet. However, when you are talking to people who climbed such-n-such 15 years ago and really dont remember much, you typically end up with "oh one or two pitches" instead of "we climbed a 43m pitch". In the end we chose pitches, but have tried to indicate if a 60m rope is needed where we could. We can always switch. The key to switching is to get as accurate info as possible for every route, including new routes submitted. Possible but not probable for the next edition. Alex Quote
Jason_Martin Posted November 7, 2003 Posted November 7, 2003 It was in excess of four years of work to get what's there. Clearly with all the "Rumors of Ice" there is TONS more research to do. We could have kept researching and trying to get all this information, but then you wouldn't have seen the book for three or four more years. As Alex stated sometimes the information just wasn't available. This is why we have a website up for you guys to help us make the second edition better. Also, if you look inside many of the route descriptions you will find the lengths of pitches. Clearly there are a number without feet or meters, but that's part of the game too. If a sixty meter rope is required we have indicated it. Jason Quote
snodger Posted November 7, 2003 Posted November 7, 2003 one vote for "great guide" from me. What amazes me is that you included beta on unclimbed routes! Isn't it normal to horde all such beta until you've managed to make the first ascent in order to gain status, and babes? Great job guys Quote
dbb Posted November 7, 2003 Posted November 7, 2003 I think they did an AMAZING job on the guide. We're pretty lucky that there's more than just a rough description of how to get to each climb, with all those routes. I'm also impressed that closed and historical routes were included, at least so we don't have to wonder. Nice job guys, that was fast. Quote
JUSTO Posted November 8, 2003 Posted November 8, 2003 (edited) Another thumbs up for the guide! It would be nice to know the altitude of the climbs as well as which direction they face (north, south, etc...) Is that going too far? Edited November 8, 2003 by JUSTO Quote
Jason_Martin Posted November 8, 2003 Posted November 8, 2003 JUSTO said: Another thumbs up for the guide! It would be nice to know the altitude of the climbs as well as which direction they face (north, south, etc...) Is that going too far? Once again, if you look closely we have included this info for some routes but no where near all. You have to read the route descriptions to find it. The direction the route faces is really only important if it's south. This is the biggest factor in climbs not forming. Within the book, you will find that many areas are listed to be south facing. Don't go there unless it's been cold for awhile. Jason Quote
thelawgoddess Posted November 30, 2003 Posted November 30, 2003 super job guys! i'm glad i won a copy before i left town. Quote
BigWave Posted December 1, 2003 Posted December 1, 2003 A couple of us super nerds are creating little elevation spreadsheets in the back of our books, and taking notes, checking things out to see what forms when, and checking the internet to see what other people are finding for ice. Too bad about the warm front though. Quote
Bug Posted December 2, 2003 Posted December 2, 2003 I just checked it out. When I went home, my son asked me what I want for Christmas. Right on Santa! Quote
Dane Posted January 5, 2004 Posted January 5, 2004 OK I can swallow this...very nice guide and very well done. This year is a good time to buy one...I did Quote
Alex Posted January 5, 2004 Posted January 5, 2004 Thanks guys! Jason and I tried to get you as much info as soon as possible. We couldve spent another season or two futzing around for more routes, but we figured the sooner we got people psyched and out, the sooner the corrections would come in Remember, you can submit corrections (rants, raves welcome too) to http://www.wastateice.net/newcorrection.aspx and see the published ones at http://www.wastateice.net/corrections.aspx Thanks! Alex Quote
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