v Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 Hoping for some improved weather and I'm heading to Smith this weekend. Looking for some recommendations on some 5.7 - 5.8 beginning lead routes trad or sport. Also, if anyone wants to join us let met know. Rodeo the offer is still out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertm Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 knights in white satin sunset slab (easier than 9) spider man and some others on the other side of asterisk pass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayborbon Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 Super Slab Trad 5.6 Purple Headed Warrior bolted 5.7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avypoodle Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 Cosmos 5.9 on the back side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by v: Hoping for some improved weather and I'm heading to Smith this weekend. Looking for some recommendations on some 5.7 - 5.8 beginning lead routes trad or sport. Also, if anyone wants to join us let met know. Rodeo the offer is still out there. dont forget to download the smith rocks guidebook update from www.smithrock.com before you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordonb Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 Where is the guidbook update? I have looked around www.smithrock.com and I don't see it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 -Lions Jaw 5.8 Good beginner lead, solid placements. -Out of Harms Way 5.8 Very fun -Moonshine Dihedral 5.9 Solid placements, classic -Cinnamon Slab, Cinnimon Toast 5.7 Good two pitch, fun reto bolted 2nd pitch. -Lichen It 5.7 bolts. -Bunny Face 5.7 bolts absolutely must do beginner lead! -Bookworm 5.7 worthy -Sky Ridge 5.8 Exciting and exposed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 I'll second the recomend for Spiderman. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayjay Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 Gordonb- try: http://www.smithrock.com/flash/routeupdates/index.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imorris Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 Moscow - 5.7 trad, multi-pitch.Lycopodophyta - 5.7 trad, left of Bunny F.Hop on Pop - 5.8 bolts I'll third the Spiderman recommendation - beautiful and exciting (at least for me). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 First pitch of Fridays Jinx 5.7 to second pitch of Crack of Infinity 5.8 Splitter. Never crowded, good rock and pro. Spiderman too. Cinnamon Slab 5.6 crack, to Cinnamon Toast (5.7 that moves left up the bolted slab arete above Karate Wall - wicked exposure) Mines of Moria in the basalt. Take a headlamp for this completely enclosed, 5.7 chimney. The easy routes in the Marsupials. No crowds. check out Round River (? i think) on Koala. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 Thin Air on Koala Rock (5.9 I think) is a pretty fun climb as well. Mixed trad and bolts. The start of the second pitch is the crux. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted March 19, 2002 Share Posted March 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: First pitch of Fridays Jinx 5.7 to second pitch of Crack of Infinity 5.8 Splitter. Never crowded, good rock and pro.Yeah, what's up with the R rating in the guide? Pack Animal is another good one, but it's also rated R. The second pitch (could probably do them as one?) is sustained for 5.8. Do these two, then from the top you can drop right down to Spiderman Buttress and avoid sketching over Asterisk Pass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gimpy Posted March 20, 2002 Share Posted March 20, 2002 OK, for those who might need the info, here are some on-line sites to visit before you head to Smith Rock. 1. http://www.smithrock.com/routes/index.html(this is the route guide section of the web page. They haven't updated the guide for some time but if your going to stay on Morning Glory all day your set.) 2. http://www.spiritone.com/~summit/sr1.html(Possibly the most complete on-line guide. The cool thing is that you can use the tree list to find routes according to difficulty, trad vs sport, and alphabetically.) 3. http://www.drtopo.com/oregon/smith.html(This is a printable topo guide you can download. Print one page, flip it over and back in your printer, then print the next page. When your done you fold them in half and you have a 24 page mini guide book. This is of course only a partial listing but if you buy the guide book suplement called "New Shtuff" from Redpoint you will have more routes then you could do in a week-end at most any level.) Hope it helps. Have fun, but avoid the free ride in the rescue litter if you can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v Posted March 20, 2002 Author Share Posted March 20, 2002 Thanks for all the good beta and resources. I appreciate all your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allison Posted March 20, 2002 Share Posted March 20, 2002 I know it's bolts, and I know it's 10a, but 'Pheonix' is the best, best route I've ever done in the park. Really fun high quality stuff. There are other good climbs on the Phoenix Buttress too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted March 20, 2002 Share Posted March 20, 2002 Dear Allison - you must be still new to the park, I agree that Pheonix is a quality climb, however there are plenty of other boss 5.10a routes. -Irreverence 5.10a * * * -Heathens Highway 5.10a * * *-Cosmos 5.10a * * * Happy climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 20, 2002 Share Posted March 20, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Ropegun2002: Dear Allison - you must be still new to the park, I agree that Pheonix is a quality climb, however there are plenty of other boss 5.10a routes. -Irreverence 5.10a * * * -Heathens Highway 5.10a * * *-Cosmos 5.10a * * * Happy climbing. How come all the good 10c routes are trad routes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted March 20, 2002 Share Posted March 20, 2002 Smith is OK if you like climbing on dried peanut butter and can endure the Sporto scene. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 20, 2002 Share Posted March 20, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: Smith is OK if you like climbing on dried peanut butter and can endure the Sporto scene. "Its NOT a "cheater stick". It's a STICK CLIP!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrosaurus Posted March 20, 2002 Share Posted March 20, 2002 I have my own version of a cheater, oops, stick clip. My television remote control. I just sit on the couch swill beer and click. Don't have to experience danger, get cold, dirty, sweaty or scared. virtual climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 20, 2002 Share Posted March 20, 2002 "Oh, dude, by stick clipping you deprive yourself of the quality boulder problem to reach the first clip. you can't call it a boulder ascent if you have a rope on!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted March 21, 2002 Share Posted March 21, 2002 Cheater sticks = the epitome of lame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klar404 Posted March 21, 2002 Share Posted March 21, 2002 Favorite shot ever at smith : some climbing chika leaning on a clip stick talkin on a cell phone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klar404 Posted March 21, 2002 Share Posted March 21, 2002 [ 03-20-2002: Message edited by: klar404 ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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