Gimpy

quote: Originally posted by trask: You're full of shit Gimpy. I've been shooting guns since I was 5 years old. I got my first gun for christmas at 8 years old...a Rugar M77 .308. Unless you know me personally, don't stereotype me. OK Trask, IF you realy do carry a 67 oz. gas opperated rotary lug handgun daily I apologize. Otherwise you are indeed full of shit and it shows.

quote: Originally posted by estivate: quote: ------------- I have a halloween mask of Richard Nixon strapped to my pack. We'll scare em' comin and goin. ------------- I read somewhere that woodcutters in the mangrove swamps of Bangladesh (one of the last tiger strongolds on the Indian subcontinent) started wearing such masks on the backs of their heads (perhaps not Nixon masks) and it reduced Tiger predation deaths markedly. I can see the Vancouver Island tourist board telling visitors to wear Nixon masks backward... This is correct about the masks to cover the back of the head. I saw it on the Discovery Channel. Apparently the cats only like to attack when your back is turned and are fooled by the mask. To clear up a few things, Trask probably just saw a picture of a Desert Eagle .50 AE and is unaware that it weighs in at nearly 4 pounds. Not what I would choose for a pack weapon, even if I could afford it. A cougar can be easily dispatched with a .22 magnum if your hunting it. For ending an attack a .38 special would suffice. I used to live in Alaska and know of several bear attacks where the person was able to draw their weapon and fire at point blank after the attack had started. (My high school teacher wrote a book about real bear attacks) The reason I carry a gun is because I would rather find out for myself if I could get the gun out in time then not have the chance to try. As for the possibility that I might shoot myself, (an idea usually forwarded by those who are not comfortable with guns in the first place) SO WHAT?? Let me see, get eaten or take a chance that you will put one more hole in your flesh to go with all those tooth and claw marks....Thinking.... Remember, the old guy at the top of this thread reached into his pocket, opened a folding knife, and then proceded to stab the hell out of the cougar.

And people ask me why I ALWAYS carry a gun when I'm hiking or climbing. Hats off to the guy with the pocket knife though, tough old buzzard.

Maybee it's because I work in construction and drop the load in a porta-john more often than in my own house but this phobia of public defication is strange to me. I don't concider myself an out of the closet pooper but next time you need a little confidence in the stall try these tips.... The turd burgler: When the door rattles just pick from the following responces... a. Just a minute longer , I have some paperwork to file. b. Hang on, I'm getting the seat warm for ya. c. Grunt with a prolonged Uhhhhg. They usually go away then. Escapee: a. Bet you wish yours was gas powered too. b. Now thats how I spell relief. Watermelon: a. Say outloud "Thats it, I hate these pagers!" just before it drops. People will think you just deep six'd your pager instead. b. If you think you might drop a splasher, lay an extra seat sheild in the bowl, it will soften the landing.

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Hey gimpy, find a new pic man, this one is mine! I found it first, so in the words of a great mind "Nah nan neener neener!!" If I had the savy to bring in some pics of my own I would but my computer illteracy overwhelms me.

I clip draws all the time in places where either by my movement or some gravitational satanic time vortex annomoly (aka. rope drag) the dang thing wants to spin around no matter how I clip it. If it is in a spot that scares me I will sometimes throw a second draw on it (reversed of course). Anybody personaly know anyone who has taken a fall on a back-clip resulting in a uncliped rope? Just wondering.

Could be thinking of Trillium Lake. There are a few small cliffs shown on the map within one or two miles of Timothy, two look big enough for exploration. I have scoped out the Calowash River wall, and it looks good too. I keep meaning to get out there with a trad climbing partner.

I am going to be camping at Timothy Lake for a few days this week. I know there is a "secret" crag near there (it's too remote to ever become over-run so even though the secret is out it's not well known) and was wondering if someone would be willing to share the beta. Would be nice to know if it's all trad, mixed, sportified, and what the ratings are?

Two cowboys are out on the range talking about their favorite sex positions. One says, "I think I enjoy the rodeo position the best. "I don't think I have ever heard of that one," says the other cowboy,"What is it?""Well, it's where you get your girlfriend down on all fours and you mount her from behind. Then you reach around and cup each one of her breasts in your hands and whisper in her ear, "Boy, these feel just like your sister's." Then you try to hold on for 8 seconds. A man is sitting at a bar wearing a worn stetson, blue jeans which show conciderable wear in the seat, and boots that have been broken in just right. The man next to him looks over and says "You look like a real cowboy, are you?" The cowboy replies "Well, I own a ranch and have lease rights to 1200 acres on which I keep a herd of 150 horses. I spend most of my day riding a horse, looking at horses, and thinking about horses. I sleep out on the range, keep a rifle on my sadle, and can lasso a horse on the run. Yea, I guess I am a cowboy." Ten minutes later a woman comes in and sits down next to the cowboy. She looks at him and asks if he is indeed a real cowboy. He answers "I guess I am. I spend more time in a sadle than in a car. I ride out on the range for three to four lonely weeks at a time, and cook mostly over a fire. I s'pose I'm as much a cowboy as ya all can be. Can I buy you a drink?" The woman says "I'm a lesbian." "Well," he responds, "what does that mean?" "It means," says the woman, "that I am only interested in women. I spend most of my days looking at women, thinking about women, and when I get the chance, having sex with women." Five minutes later another man walks in, looks at the cowboy's hat and asks, "Are you a real cowboy?" The cowboy answers, "Well, up until five minutes ago I thought I was."

Let me rephrase that, I want to know the particulars of how to rig and work a self-belay on lead. I have used both a prusik and the Grigri for TR so am comfortable with their use. What I don't get is how the rope is managed. If I tie in to the harness, run it through the first draw, and return to the belay device, I create a loop. Climb to the second anchor and clip you still have a loop, just a larger one. If you fall, would you not fall clear down to the first anchor point? Is there a way to rig so you only fall twice you distance above the last clip? This hasn't been keeping me up at night. Also I would only use this on routes several marks below my redpoint. I was just at Frenche's Dome the other day, alone again. I bouldered a little, and then went to screw around on Staircase. There was a day, before I had kids to think about, that I would have solo'd up to the top and rapped down. Now I at least want some rope to keep me from decking, so I chickened out at the first anchor of pitch two and rapped down. Thanks for any advice, Gimpy

Sometimes if I cant round up a partner for some last-minute climbing I use my Grigri and self-belay on TR. I have been wondering if there is a good method for self-belay on lead for those routes I cant just scramble up to the top first. Anybody have some experiance or knowlege? Gimpy

My favorite time waster on the windows screen. Just scored 162 sec on expert level, and I was wondering, what's your best time? Am I slow or average, or what?

quote: Originally posted by joekania: And why not pump your BD to the max and then downclimb? Inverted? Um, not what I would recomend. Ice girl would be a better source to advise on this but there are a few hazards with this maxed out BC inverted downclimb. One, as you decend you constantly need to add air to your BC to maintain a high level of positive bouyancy since the increase of water pressure compresses the air, lessening it's bouyancy effect. Two, if you should "fall upward" so to speak, you would need to quickly release air or face an increasingly rappid ascent lacking in proper decompression.

I know cold temps drain car batteries, but they are quite different from nickle-cadnium batteries. I also know, according to a recent study, that regular alkaline batteries last just as long stored in a fridge as they do on a shelf. (Not longer, as my wife thought, rather no advantage to either storage method) I also know that when a battery has pooped out you can disconnect it for a short time, let it cool, and it does seem to replenish a bit. The real issue here is that maybee, just MAYBEE, telephone solicitors aren't all servants of Hell.

Dennis, the deflation idea occured to me after I posted. Not something I would normaly think of doing so it didn't jump to mind. Your still going to experiance some bouyancy gain as you ascend, but not much. As for the scum coating, I haven't been in that lake at all, but have yet to see a lake that wasn't algae ridden. What depth are you starting from? If your working a 2000 ft wall (Incidently, that's 40 ft deeper than the bottom of Crater Lake) I'll go out on a limb and guess your not decending much below 160 ft. What do you do, set a porta-ledge?

It all seems like a bunch of BS to me. Even IF you weigh yourself down, as you climb you need to constantly adjust your BC to keep from being shot to the top. As such the whole concept of drilling for bolts and placing pro (How would you properly seat a nut in pond scum coated cracks anyway?) seems ludicrous. You don't "fall" fast in water, especially when using a BC (that's bouyancy control if you're wondering). If you slip off, and if your currently negatively bouyant, hit the valve and bring yourself right back to the spot you greased off. But what do I know, I suppose I'm just missing something. Hell, if your having fun down there it's just one less party competing for the belay ledge to me.

Dennis, I have noticed that free speech is practiced in abundance on this site, largely uninhibited by the moderators. Agent Orange is the jerk who posted THE grossest and most profane thing I have read on the "joke for the hell of it" thread, for that matter I can't recall hving read something that sick anywhere. He was banned then and must have been given a second chance. I don't view my posting privilages on this site as a God given right but rather a kind service from some people who do a lot of thankless work to keep it going. Should they one day decide to ban me for failing to climb better than 5.10 or my inept spelling I would just go away expecting a full refund for all the money I didn't pay.

I'm going to go with a sport climber on this one, not because of any political views I might have or any he might bring, but because drilling bolts and redpointing via hang-dog and streaming beta seems to piss some people off, especialy those who think that if you don't climb according to their values you shouldn't be allowed to climb at all. (Note, I'm not stomping on trad or sport, but rather those who act like Nazi's attempting to control others who choose to ascend in a manner not to their likeing, be it trad on lead or a top-roped jummar approach to getting to the top I respect anyone's choice on how to waste their time. Just be cool and allow me the same courtesy.)

Three rednecks went camping, and later, in the emergency room Tommy Ray is trying to explain to the State Trooper how Billy Joe got shot. Apparently while the three were sitting around, drinking beer and shooting at the tossed empties Tommy Ray asked if anyone wanted to go hunt "what all we see". Billy Joe jumps up and says, "OK, I'm game!" and next thang ya know Skeeter shoots 'em!

I haven't had a blister in years, not since I learned two important things... 1. Boot needs to be a good fit. You would think this is a no-brainer but I used to try to get away with a cheap, GI Joe's or Walmart special. Buy the quality with good padding. 2. One pair of socks, one pair of my wifes knee-high stockings. Blisters not caused by bruising are usually caused by friction. Nylons stay tight to your foot, but are slick and let the sock slide where it needs to. Yes, I get some strange looks from the rest of the guys when I'm checking for runs in my stockings, but after the hike and I'm the only one with-out a single blister I don't hear too many remarks.

The recent and unfortunate news about a barge hitting a bridge reminded me about another Mr. Tug meets Mr. Bridge incident. At least this one had a happy, though bizzar ending. http://koti.mbnet.fi/~soldier/towboat.htm

Yes, rappeling is no big deal, since you rarely generate a pull more than your own weight. And top rope climbing is probably no problem since the fall force is only your weight plus the weight of your belayer plus the kinetic energy from whatever distance you fall before being stopped. It's not like people crater all the time from this, especially now that pitons are hardly ever used as anchors anymore. Like I said, it's the excessive strength built into climbing gear that keeps those who don't know better from making grease spots on the ground.

With out getting to high on a mathematical soap box I'll take a stab at explaining WHY the triangel config. is a poor anchor for those who might be wondering. There are basically two factors at work here. Think of a pulley, by changing the angle or direction of force, you simply put, get more force returned than exerted. The triangle acts as a compound pulley since when force is applied to the anchor you get the force of fall, divided equally to the two outside anchors, with almost no weight bourn by any interior anchors. Now the fun begins when you realize that force traveling through a pivot point, like a pulley or a biner, does not simply cancel it self out but rather redirects. In this case it travels to the other anchor holding the other half of the load. At the same time that anchor is sending it's force the opposite direction and each anchor ends up having to hold not only half the weight of the fall, but the full force being applied to the other side transfered. Add to that the pulley effect and the end result is that each anchor actually has to resist a force greater than the actuall fall generated. You would be better off anchoring to only one point. The second concern is direction of pull, as most anchors are put together to resist a downward pull. The triangle pulls roughly at a 45 degree downward angle. If you want to break metal, the best way is to change the direction of it's stress. Take a paper clip. Bent as it is, for the size it is rather strong. Bend it strait, and back again and you have lost conciderable strength. Do it again and it will likely break. Have one party come along and set up a proper magic X, and the next set up a triangle. Repeat. Repeat again. Slowly the metal get weakened. It is only the excessive strength built into climbing gear that keeps those who don't know better from making grease spots on the ground. Now this is in laymans terms and probably fraught with oppertunities for an engineer to pick it appart but it serves well enough for me.

The rock piles, usually held together with chicken wire or some other wire fencing, is for those occasions when you go to dig a hole and hit rock. In some areas of Oregon you will even see road signs installed this way.

Somebody edit/delete agent orange's post, remove his posting rights and boot his ass off this site! That is about as sick as you can get and damn close to child porn. Go visit some other sites or run up your phone bill on your favorite 1-900 sicko.