Smith Rocks

[v]

Hoping for some improved weather and I'm heading to Smith this weekend. Looking for some recommendations on some 5.7 - 5.8 beginning lead routes trad or sport.

Also, if anyone wants to join us let met know. Rodeo the offer is still out there.

[robertm]

knights in white satin

sunset slab (easier than 9)

spider man and some others on the other side of asterisk pass

[rayborbon]

Super Slab Trad 5.6

Purple Headed Warrior bolted 5.7

[avypoodle]

Cosmos 5.9 on the back side.

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by v:

Hoping for some improved weather and I'm heading to Smith this weekend. Looking for some recommendations on some 5.7 - 5.8 beginning lead routes trad or sport.

Also, if anyone wants to join us let met know. Rodeo the offer is still out there.

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dont forget to download the smith rocks guidebook update from www.smithrock.com before you go.

[Gordonb]

Where is the guidbook update? I have looked around www.smithrock.com and I don't see it.

[Bob_Clarke]

-Lions Jaw 5.8 Good beginner lead, solid placements.

-Out of Harms Way 5.8 Very fun

-Moonshine Dihedral 5.9 Solid placements, classic

-Cinnamon Slab, Cinnimon Toast 5.7 Good two pitch, fun reto bolted 2nd pitch.

-Lichen It 5.7 bolts.

-Bunny Face 5.7 bolts absolutely must do beginner lead!

-Bookworm 5.7 worthy

-Sky Ridge 5.8 Exciting and exposed!

[Peter_Puget]

I'll second the recomend for Spiderman.

[sayjay]

Gordonb-

try:

http://www.smithrock.com/flash/routeupdates/index.html

[imorris]

Moscow - 5.7 trad, multi-pitch.Lycopodophyta - 5.7 trad, left of Bunny F.Hop on Pop - 5.8 bolts

I'll third the Spiderman recommendation - beautiful and exciting (at least for me).

[Dru]

First pitch of Fridays Jinx 5.7 to second pitch of Crack of Infinity 5.8 Splitter. Never crowded, good rock and pro.

Spiderman too.

Cinnamon Slab 5.6 crack, to Cinnamon Toast (5.7 that moves left up the bolted slab arete above Karate Wall - wicked exposure)

Mines of Moria in the basalt. Take a headlamp for this completely enclosed, 5.7 chimney.

The easy routes in the Marsupials. No crowds. check out Round River (? i think) on Koala.

[rbw1966]

Thin Air on Koala Rock (5.9 I think) is a pretty fun climb as well. Mixed trad and bolts. The start of the second pitch is the crux.

[chucK]

quote:

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Originally posted by Dru:

First pitch of Fridays Jinx 5.7 to second pitch of Crack of Infinity 5.8 Splitter. Never crowded, good rock and pro.

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Yeah, what's up with the R rating in the guide?

Pack Animal is another good one, but it's also rated R. The second pitch (could probably do them as one?) is sustained for 5.8.

Do these two, then from the top you can drop right down to Spiderman Buttress and avoid sketching over Asterisk Pass.

[Gimpy]

OK, for those who might need the info, here are some on-line sites to visit before you head to Smith Rock.

1. http://www.smithrock.com/routes/index.html(this is the route guide section of the web page. They haven't updated the guide for some time but if your going to stay on Morning Glory all day your set.)

2. http://www.spiritone.com/~summit/sr1.html(Possibly the most complete on-line guide. The cool thing is that you can use the tree list to find routes according to difficulty, trad vs sport, and alphabetically.)

3. http://www.drtopo.com/oregon/smith.html(This is a printable topo guide you can download. Print one page, flip it over and back in your printer, then print the next page. When your done you fold them in half and you have a 24 page mini guide book. This is of course only a partial listing but if you buy the guide book suplement called "New Shtuff" from Redpoint you will have more routes then you could do in a week-end at most any level.)

Hope it helps. Have fun, but avoid the free ride in the rescue litter if you can.

[v]

Thanks for all the good beta and resources. I appreciate all your help.

[allison]

I know it's bolts, and I know it's 10a, but 'Pheonix' is the best, best route I've ever done in the park. Really fun high quality stuff. There are other good climbs on the Phoenix Buttress too.

[Bob_Clarke]

Dear Allison - you must be still new to the park, I agree that Pheonix is a quality climb, however there are plenty of other boss 5.10a routes.

-Irreverence 5.10a * * * -Heathens Highway 5.10a * * *-Cosmos 5.10a * * *

Happy climbing.

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by Ropegun2002:

Dear Allison - you must be still new to the park, I agree that Pheonix is a quality climb, however there are plenty of other boss 5.10a routes.

-Irreverence 5.10a * * * -Heathens Highway 5.10a * * *-Cosmos 5.10a * * *

Happy climbing.

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How come all the good 10c routes are trad routes?

[Retrosaurus]

Smith is OK if you like climbing on dried peanut butter and can endure the Sporto scene.

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by Retrosaurus:

Smith is OK if you like climbing on dried peanut butter and can endure the Sporto scene.

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"Its NOT a "cheater stick". It's a STICK CLIP!"

[Retrosaurus]

I have my own version of a cheater, oops, stick clip. My television remote control. I just sit on the couch swill beer and click. Don't have to experience danger, get cold, dirty, sweaty or scared. virtual climbing.

[Dru]

"Oh, dude, by stick clipping you deprive yourself of the quality boulder problem to reach the first clip. you can't call it a boulder ascent if you have a rope on!"

[specialed]

Cheater sticks = the epitome of lame.

[klar404]

Favorite shot ever at smith : some climbing chika leaning on a clip stick talkin on a cell phone!

[klar404]

[ 03-20-2002: Message edited by: klar404 ]