Tyrol Declaration

[wayne]

I havent finished reading it but it looks like JUST what we unrulies need.

We all need to read it and live by it. They put alot of thought into it!

Good job guys!

[EWolfe]

[wayne]

Sorry,

Its a manifest of conduct, a code if you will.

I just saw it in the new American Alpine Journal.

With all the crap you hear about with problems related to climbing, it was found necessary to write some unwritten rules down for conduct surrounding the climbing envirornment etc.

It is brilliant by my accounts and I will hope you all read it and agree?

[Thrashador]

The Tyrol Declaration

Final Draft Proposals

8 September 2002

 

The aim of the Tyrol Declaration for mountain sports

is to protect the freedom of participants and promote social development, cultural understanding and environmental awareness. To this end, the Tyrol Declaration follows the traditional unwritten values and codes of conduct inherent in mountain sports and expands on these to meet the demands of our times. These proposals for best practice in mountain sports are adressed to all lovers of the mountains worldwide - whether they be hikers and trekkers, sport climbers, or mountaineers seeking to push their limits at high altitudes. With these proposals we especially hope to reach young people, for they are the fiture of mountain sports.

 

The Tyrol Declaration is based on a set of values and maxims to give guidance on best practice in mountain sports. These values and maxims are not rules or detailed instructions, rather

 

 

 

they define today's fundamental values in mountain sports;

they contain principles and standards of conduct;

they formulate the ethical criteria for decision making and uncertain situations;

they present the ethical principles by which the public can judge mountain sports;

they introduce beginners to the values and moral principles relevant to their sport.

 

 

 

 

The Tyrol Declaration for Mountain Sports APPEAL:

 

 

 

 

Stretch your limits, lift your spirits and aim for the top.

Accept the risks and assume responsibility.

Balance your goals with your skills and experience.

Play by fair means and report honestly.

Strive for best practice and never stop learning.

Be tolerant, considerate and help each other.

Protect the wild and natural character of mountains and cliffs.

Act withing the limits of effort and the 'barrier of fatigue'.

Support local communities.

 

 

 

 

 

 

VALUES:

 

Human dignity

In keeping with Article 1 of the UN Bill of Human Rights, the proposals are based on the premise that human beings are born free and equal in dignity and rights and should treat one another in the spirit of brotherhood. Particular attention should be given to equal rights of men and women.

 

Life, liberty, happiness

Is goes without saying that climbers and mountaineers subscribe to the inalienable human rights, foremost life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness. We feel a special responsibility towards the indigenious populations of mountain areas, whose right to a dignified, self-determined life must be protected by all possible means.

 

Intactness of nature

Thanks to their intensive contact with nature, climbers and alpinists develop awareness for the beauty of a healthy environment and the need to preserve its flora and fauna. "Leave no traces" has always been a key issue in our environmental philosophy. With the growing threat to fragile ecosystems in mountain regions all over the world, one of the most important commitments of the climbing community has become the protection of endangered species of flora and fauna, both in the mountains and in crag climbing areas.

 

Solidarity

There are few situations in which people are so dependent on each other as are climbers on hard routes in wilderness areas. Rewarding experiences and success most readily manifest in a harmonious team where mutual support is the rule. The shared experience of intensive outdoor adventure diminishes differences due to social class, age, religion or nationality. Thus, climbing has become a means to promote understanding among individuals as well as nations. Solidarity between hikers, rock climbers and mountaineers also extends to the population of the regions they visit.

 

Self-actualization

It is our conviction that all humans - after their immediate physical demands and their needs for security, love and recognition have been met - strive for self-actualization. For millions of people around the world, climbing and mountaineering have become a significant factor in the quest for a meaningful life. It is through climbing that they experience the support of a friendly social environment, recognition and the exhilarating pleasures of athletic accomplishment.

 

Truth

As performance in climbing frequently goes unwitnessed and often can't be indisputably documented, experts and the public alike have to rely on the truthfulness of the activists who report on their accomplishments. If arbitrariness replaces truth, it becomes impossible to evaluate performance in climbing, thus robbing our sport of one of its most important motives.

 

Excellence

All mountaineers and rock climbers like to tackle problems that challenge them both physically and mentally, striving for both elegant and controlled execution of the task. Many activists strive to improve their abilities. Without continual progress on the cutting edge of performance, climbing would lose much of its dynamism and fascination.

 

Adventure

We experience our own performance most intensively when - moving close to our limits - we interact with the natural obstacles posed by mountains or crags as directly as possible, with a minimum of interfering technology. For this reason, risk and advantage are essential factors in climbing. The intensive feeling of satisfaction climbing can impart, is a product of the exiting balance between danger and safety achieved through skillfully blending courage, rational judgment, emotional control, responsibility and athletic prowess. The diversity of disciplines in mountain sports - hiking, adventure climbing and sport/plaisir climbing - allows everyone to chose their own individual adventure, where their skills and the dangers are in balance.

 

The quality of values

Although individualistic values play an essential role in defining climbing, we need to realize that in any moral issue, these rank below humane principles and environmentally-oriented ideals. Putting self-actualization, performance and adventure above the right to life of Man and his natural environment is incompatible with the humanistic values of mountaineering and rock climbing. It is the responsibilty of every single climber to weigh and balance the values of his sport so that climbing can keep its integrity and is able to stand up against current trends marked by shortsightedness, egotism and greed.

 

REVISED MAXIMS

 

 

Article 1 - Individual Responsibility

MAXIM

Mountaineers or climbers practice their sport in a situation where there is risk of accidents and outside help may be unavailable. With this in mind, they pursue this activity at their own responsibility and are accountable for their own safety. The individual's action should not endanger those around them nor the environment.

 

Article 2 - Team Spirit

MAXIM

Members of the team should be prepared to make compromises in order to balance the interests and abilities of all the group.

 

Article 3 - Climbing & Mountaineering Community

MAXIM

We owe every person we meet in the mountains or on the rocks an equal measure of respect. Even in isolated conditions and stressful situations, we should not forget to threat others as we want to be treated ourselves.

 

Article 4 - Visiting Foreign Countries

MAXIM

As guests in foreign cultures, we should always conduct ourselves politely and with restraint towards the people there - our hosts. We will respect holy mountains and places and we will seek to benefit and assist local economy and people. Understanding of foreign cultures is part of complete climbing experience.

 

Article 5 - Responsibilities of groups and guided parties

MAXIM

Professional mountain guides, other leaders and groups should understand their respective roles and respect the freedoms and rights of other groups and individuals. So they are prepared the leaders and grops should:

Understand the hazards of the objective and have the necessary skills and experience.

Have the correct equipment.

Check the weather and conditions.

 

 

 

Article 6 (& 7) - Emergencies

MAXIM

To be prepared for emergencies:

Have you thought about the risks?

Do you have the skills, knowledge and equipment to deal with an emergency situation?

Can you and will you help others in the event of an emergency?

Are you ready to face the consequences of a tragedy?

 

 

 

Article 8 - Access and Conservation

MAXIM

We consider freedom of access to mountains a fundamental right. Nevertheless, we should always practice our activities in an environmentally sensitive way and be proactive in preserving nature. We respect access restrictions and regulations agreed between climbers and mountaineers and nature conservation organizations and authorities.

 

Article 9 - Style

MAXIM

The quality of the experience and how we solve a problem is more important then whether we solve it. We strive to leave no trace.

 

Article 10 - First Ascents

MAXIM

The first ascent of a route or a mountain is a creative act, but it should be done in at least as good a style as the traditions of the region and show responsibility toward the needs of future climbers.

 

Article 11 - Sponsorship & Advertising

MAXIM

The cooperation between sponsors and athletes must be a professional relationship that serves the best interests of mountain sports.

 

Article 12 - Public Relations & Mountain Sports

MAXIM

It is the responsibility of the mountain sports community in all its aspects to educate and inform both media and public in a proactive manner.

 

This document is, with the final amendments, to be approved by the UIAA General Assemly

in Flagstaff, Arizona on 05.10.02.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kilde: "The Future of Mountain Sports", Innsbruck 08.09.02

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The link

[wayne]

Fng nice work Micheal! Was it on a website?

[Dwayner]

I just read "the declaration"/manifesto. Much of it reads like a bunch of happy, superficial noise-candy. (Who needs advice on team-unity and such? Do you need a document to define your needs and aspirations? And there are some serious implications for you sport-monkeys and others.)

 

Before you come to any conclusions....study each paragraph and how it might apply to yourself and climbing in general....scrutinize the implications.....maybe you'll embrace it wholeheartedly, or maybe you'll find it to be a mixed bag full of notions of varying merit. Whatever you decide...don't take it for face value...it's far more complicated than that.

 

Dwayner's opinion.

[Sphinx]

Dwayner said:

I just read "the declaration"/manifesto. Much of it reads like a bunch of happy, superficial noise-candy. (Who needs advice on team-unity and such? Do you need a document to define your needs and aspirations? And there are some serious implications for you sport-monkeys and others.)

 

Before you come to any conclusions....study each paragraph and how it might apply to yourself and climbing in general....scrutinize the implications.....maybe you'll embrace it wholeheartedly, or maybe you'll find it to be a mixed bag full of notions of varying merit. Whatever you decide...don't take it for face value...it's far more complicated than that.

 

Dwayner's opinion.

 

Dwayner, you are right on. What a crock of bullshit. I climb so that I can get away from people telling me what to do, how to act, what to wear, etc, etc, etc. Making a climbing 'rulebook' is contrary to the appeal of the sport, if you can call it that. Personally, I'd tell the UIAA to go shove it up their ass.

 

Dwayner: you .

 

Well, sometimes, anyways.

[lummox]

The aim of the Tyrol Declaration for mountain sports is to protect the freedom of participants and promote social development, cultural understanding and environmental awareness.

sounds like some kindergarten euro green fagass bullshit. reads like those fuckers took a little time out from dressing in their buckskin pants and playing indian.

ifn i want some fucker to speak for me ill tell em to.

 

 

until i get banned again

[Dru]

Dwayner's angry cause he sees in the "needs of others" first ascent statement a license to bolt.

 

Didn't the UIAA also adopt a "bolt free above 2500m contour" resolution at some point.

[Sphinx]

You can control my climbing over my cold, dead body.

 

Wasn't it Twight who wrote that "the ones who succeed are the ruthless, arrogant assholes who don't give a shit about the rest of his team" or something like that? Kinda contradictory when compared to the above: "Members of the team should be prepared to make compromises in order to balance the interests and abilities of all the group. "

 

The UIAA can suck my

[EWolfe]

It seems to be well thought out and pertinent without being overbearing.

Seems that some of you are knee-jerk reactionists that are threatened by any type of unity around climbing - fine.

Give some credit to the people for setting down some solid truths for those that see value, and leave the rest.

How does this threaten you personally? Are you that insecure of your own ability of self-determination

Is the UIAA following you around?

 

[fleblebleb]

Pshah, I scanned that whole thing and it doesn't even touch on fundamental issues like spray. Whatsitgoodfor?

[Fairweather]

Dwayner said:

I just read "the declaration"/manifesto. Much of it reads like a bunch of happy, superficial noise-candy. (Who needs advice on team-unity and such? Do you need a document to define your needs and aspirations? And there are some serious implications for you sport-monkeys and others.)

 

Before you come to any conclusions....study each paragraph and how it might apply to yourself and climbing in general....scrutinize the implications.....maybe you'll embrace it wholeheartedly, or maybe you'll find it to be a mixed bag full of notions of varying merit. Whatever you decide...don't take it for face value...it's far more complicated than that.

 

Dwayner's opinion.

 

Well said Dwayner!

 

The devil is in the details!....and the interpretation of the fine print is still open to debate. Aren't some things just better left unwritten?

[Thrashador]

wayne1112 said:

Fng nice work Micheal! Was it on a website?

 

Uhhhh, Wayne...check the link at the bottom of my post d00d! Some Danish site...

[Attitude]

The Tyrol Declaration

Executive Summary

20 August 2003

 

Don't be a dickhead.

No wonder so many people on this board are against it.

 

[slothrop]

Seems reasonable and thoughtfully done, at first glance. Mike Clelland's cartoon in the AAJ sums up the Declaration and attendant controversy pretty well. I'm don't feel personally threatened by a statement of values like the Declaration, but perhaps some of the ruthless wanna-bes that Tom Frost describes do.

 

Those who climb with awareness of their impact on the mountains might find the Declaration useful food for thought, but it won't change those who don't give a shit. I think the best use of the Declaration is as a moral model for passing on to the inexorably growing hordes of beginning climbers so that the world's mountains and crags are preserved in a relatively wild, adventurous state for as long as possible.

 

At the conference where the Declaration was crafted, a Swiss group apparently whined like little babies and declared that they would defend against "the tyranny of the elites" embodied in the declaration by grid-bolting the Alps or some such bullshit. Apparently they think they speak for The People, who apparently need everything to be bolted in order to feel safe when climbing. How dare they speak for me or anyone else? Their attitude is exactly the moral elitism they think they're defending against.

[Sphinx]

Well, good thing that we don't climb in the Alps. Fuckin euros.

[erik]

sounds like some sort of commerical guidelines.

 

 

[Lowell_Skoog]

Climbing is not an escape from real life. It's as much a part of real life as any other human activity. In his book "Creativity," Mihaly Cziksentmihalyi describes three factors that must be present for Creativity (with a capital 'C') to occur. (This is creativity in the large, which changes some aspect of the world.) The first is a domain of expertise (like climbing). The second is a creative individual. The third is a "field," a group of people familiar with the domain, who ultimately determine whether a creative contribution is accepted.

 

The Tyrol Declaration seems to be an effort by the climbing field to describe the principles that apply to this domain, to guide its future development. You can rail against it, or you can argue that it's not quite right, but if you want to make a "contribution" to the sport of climbing (like a new route or a new idea) I don't think you can ignore it. Your contribution will be evaluated, in the long run, by principles that are generally upheld by the climbing field.

 

[Dwayner]

I hope you all study this "Tyrol Declaration" because it could very well be used as a tool in future legislation, etc. Some of you may read it and find it delightful while I found it full of disturbing assumptions about values and what myself and others might believe. Here is my take on a few of the aspects of the "Declaration" just to illustrate how it might be more complex than it appears. These are MY responses...you're not required to agree with me.

 

 

First of all, one of its aims is to "promote social development", i.e. "social engineering".

Don't we have enough of that forced on us already by the schools and government. Do we need that imposed on us in our recreational pursuits? Freedom of the hills.

 

The Declaration states as one of its functions to:

"define today's fundamental values in mountain sports"

 

I see no particular consensus amongst climbers on many issues. A brief survey of opinions expressed on cc.com regularly demonstrates this.

 

"We feel a special responsibility towards the indigenious populations of mountain areas, whose right to a dignified, self-determined life must be protected by all possible means."

 

I like most local folks...but I have problem with the term "all possible means". That's a LOADED statement.

 

The bits in the Declaration regarding solidarity, self-actualization and adventure don't speak for me.

 

"Excellence

All mountaineers and rock climbers like to tackle problems that challenge them both physically and mentally, striving for both elegant and controlled execution of the task. Many activists strive to improve their abilities. Without continual progress on the cutting edge of performance, climbing would lose much of its dynamism and fascination."

 

Again, the authors aren't speaking for me. I climb for my own reasons, not necessarily for those described above for "all". Climbing doesn't require "progress" to be fascinating or dynamic to me. We could all revert to alpenstocks and nailed boots, or everyone could quit climbing tomorrow, and I would still enjoy it (maybe even more!).

 

 

Article 2 - Team Spirit

MAXIM

"Members of the team should be prepared to make compromises in order to balance the interests and abilities of all the group."

 

I'm the boss, we'll decide together if we're equals, or I'll defer to the more experienced who has the option of considering my opinion.

 

Article 3 - Climbing & Mountaineering Community

MAXIM

"We owe every person we meet in the mountains or on the rocks an equal measure of respect. Even in isolated conditions and stressful situations, we should not forget to threat others as we want to be treated ourselves."

 

The legislation of human relations! I personally don't like everything that goes on in the mountains and especially on the rocks and those practioners who offend my sensibilities will not command "an equal measure of respect".

 

"Article 4 - Visiting Foreign Countries

MAXIM

As guests in foreign cultures, we should always conduct ourselves politely and with restraint towards the people there - our hosts. We will respect holy mountains and places and we will seek to benefit and assist local economy and people."

 

Notice the condescending use of the term "restraint", as if we need to be lectured about how to hold back our gregarious selves, or lest we pop some local jerk in the chops when he rips us off. And the condescending assumption that local folks need our "superior" help and money (they don't always do though many will be glad to take your money.) [i do, however, agree with the notion that we should be polite guests and show respect for holy places.]

 

"Understanding of foreign cultures is part of complete climbing experience."

 

I guess I should make an effort to understand those fake Germans in Leavenworth, eh? I guess I should make sure I buy a Brat. with extra kraut before leaving that town and spend some time with one of the denizens (trying to understand them) or my climbing experience won't be complete! [understanding is good, educational and it makes you a good ambassador for your home country. The "completeness" part I find ridiculous.]

 

 

Article 6 (& 7) - Emergencies

MAXIM

"Can you and will you help others in the event of an emergency?"

 

My choice.

 

"Are you ready to face the consequences of a tragedy?"

 

Ask the same question to your average motorist.

 

"Article 8 - Access and Conservation

MAXIM

We consider freedom of access to mountains a fundamental right..."

 

Unless I own it! And while you're at it...tell that to the Pakistani's, Chinese, Nepalese, etc. Fundamental right.....I love mountaineering but that is WAY OVER THE TOP!!! As a "fundamental right", access to the mountains is way down at the bottom of the food chain.

 

Article 9 - Style

MAXIM

"The quality of the experience and how we solve a problem is more important then whether we solve it..."

 

For lots of folks, it ain't always just the journey as many people say (especially when they bail-off or fail)...I actually appreciate the summit and am disappointed if I don't reach it, although I won't do absolutely anything to get there.

 

Article 11 - Sponsorship & Advertising

MAXIM

"The cooperation between sponsors and athletes must be a professional relationship that serves the best interests of mountain sports."

 

Nobody's damn business what my professional relationships might entail.

 

Lest you think that I'm just an angry feller, I do agree with the statement about maintaining the environment, for example:

 

"Intactness of nature

Thanks to their intensive contact with nature, climbers and alpinists develop awareness for the beauty of a healthy environment and the need to preserve its flora and fauna. "Leave no traces" has always been a key issue in our environmental philosophy. With the growing threat to fragile ecosystems in mountain regions all over the world, one of the most important commitments of the climbing community has become the protection of endangered species of flora and fauna, both in the mountains and in crag climbing areas."

 

- Dwayner

Edited August 20, 2003 by Dwayner

[Sphinx]

An excellent post Dwayner, I agree on all counts. It's just those damn Euros trying to pidgeonhole everybody into playing by the rules.

[Figger_Eight]

Dwayner -

[Stefan]

It appears that this declaration is a kind of mission statement.

 

Companies have mission statements who define who they are.

[Dwayner]

Stefan said:

It appears that this declaration is a kind of mission statement.

 

Companies have mission statements who define who they are.

 

It claims to speak for climbers in general. It does not, however, accurately define who I am nor what I may believe about mountaineering values.

 

I'm not part of their "company" nor are a good many climbers I know.

 

- Dwayner

 

 

[slothrop]

Dwayner said:

First of all, one of its aims is to "promote social development", i.e. "social engineering".

Don't we have enough of that forced on us already by the schools and government. Do we need that imposed on us in our recreational pursuits? Freedom of the hills.

 

Jeez, man, no one is forcing you to do anything. Social engineering, on the smallest scale, goes on the moment you step outside your door and see another person. The way that person reacts to your appearance and actions, in turn, affects your behavior. This comment of yours is particularly ridiculous considering your predilection for trying to socially engineer bolting practices among those climbers who will stand around and listen to you.

 

Dwayner said:

The Declaration states as one of its functions to:

"define today's fundamental values in mountain sports"

 

I see no particular consensus amongst climbers on many issues. A brief survey of opinions expressed on cc.com regularly demonstrates this.

 

So an articulate, experienced, well-meaning group of climbers writes down what they seem to agree is a set of values that many climbers share. Theirs is another well-stated, thoughtful opinion among many. Just like you try to build consensus among your peers that <oversimplification>bolting is bad</oversimplification> in long bolt-war threads on cc.com, this group of climbers gets together to build consensus around what they think is a good way to do things. What are you complaining about? That their views get more press?

 

Dwayner said:

"Excellence

All mountaineers and rock climbers like to tackle problems that challenge them both physically and mentally, striving for both elegant and controlled execution of the task. Many activists strive to improve their abilities. Without continual progress on the cutting edge of performance, climbing would lose much of its dynamism and fascination."

 

Again, the authors aren't speaking for me. I climb for my own reasons, not necessarily for those described above for "all". Climbing doesn't require "progress" to be fascinating or dynamic to me. We could all revert to alpenstocks and nailed boots, or everyone could quit climbing tomorrow, and I would still enjoy it (maybe even more!).

 

Great, you aren't a big fan of progress, climbing 5.13, whatever. You don't belong to the group of "activists" the Declaration mentions, so of course they're not speaking to you. They said that. When standards aren't pushed or a sport doesn't change, of course it loses dynamism (when viewed as a whole). That's just what dynamism means.

 

Dwayner said:

Article 2 - Team Spirit

MAXIM

"Members of the team should be prepared to make compromises in order to balance the interests and abilities of all the group."

 

I'm the boss, we'll decide together if we're equals, or I'll defer to the more experienced who has the option of considering my opinion.

 

I think you're saying the same thing here. Case one: your partners compromise to make you big boss man. Case two: everyone compromises a little. Case three: you compromise to let your more experienced partner take the lead.

 

Dwayner said:

Article 3 - Climbing & Mountaineering Community

MAXIM

"We owe every person we meet in the mountains or on the rocks an equal measure of respect. Even in isolated conditions and stressful situations, we should not forget to threat others as we want to be treated ourselves."

 

The legislation of human relations! I personally don't like everything that goes on in the mountains and especially on the rocks and those practioners who offend my sensibilities will not command "an equal measure of respect".

 

I believe this is the "don't be a dickhead, please" clause. And what other kind of legislation do you know than legislation of human relations?

 

Dwayner said:

"Article 4 - Visiting Foreign Countries

MAXIM

As guests in foreign cultures, we should always conduct ourselves politely and with restraint towards the people there - our hosts. We will respect holy mountains and places and we will seek to benefit and assist local economy and people."

 

"Understanding of foreign cultures is part of complete climbing experience."

 

Yeah, I mostly agree here. This is a little too PC, though would Leavenworth be complete without the tourons?

 

Dwayner said:

Article 6 (& 7) - Emergencies

MAXIM

"Can you and will you help others in the event of an emergency?"

 

My choice.

 

Again, "don't be a heartless dickhead". What goes around comes around (or should, at least).

 

Dwayner said:

"Article 8 - Access and Conservation

MAXIM

We consider freedom of access to mountains a fundamental right..."

 

Unless I own it! And while you're at it...tell that to the Pakistani's, Chinese, Nepalese, etc. Fundamental right.....I love mountaineering but that is WAY OVER THE TOP!!! As a "fundamental right", access to the mountains is way down at the bottom of the food chain.

 

Yup, this is overblown.

 

Dwayner said:

Article 11 - Sponsorship & Advertising

MAXIM

"The cooperation between sponsors and athletes must be a professional relationship that serves the best interests of mountain sports."

 

Nobody's damn business what my professional relationships might entail.

 

Unless you're committing a crime. For example, your sponsor (well, not yours, but Evil Sporto Dude's) tells you to bolt their logo onto Castle Rock for 50 bucks.