Dru Posted July 29, 2003 Posted July 29, 2003 squamish is so suck stay away americans we beat you up and break into your cars Quote
mattp Posted July 29, 2003 Posted July 29, 2003 Peter_Puget said: Mattp In all seriousness I think you way overstate the quality of Squamish. .... PP You may be right. I haven't spent much time at Squamish. Quote
pope Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 mattp said: In my view, the South Buttress of Cutthroat is NOT worth doing. All things considered, and when compared to other routes in the area, it is a relatively dirty and unaesthetic climb. Not worth doing? Dirty and unaesthetic climb? It's more of a mountaineering route than some of the Washington Pass climbs recommended in this thread. But dirty and unaesthetic? Matt, I've done it twice and found it to be a pleasant route. Perhaps it is ceaner than when you did it last (1958?); several people I've talked to said the route is cool (nice approach, great views, fairly sound rock and an awesome looking peak that towers over Hwy 20), although it is not too technically demanding. Earlier in the year (late June/early July), the approach passes through a brilliant carpet of glacier lilies. This climb IS worth doing, but certainly not the best rock route at the Pass (I'll agree with you on that, Matt). With three people who want a quality introduction to Washington climbing, without having to sit in line on one of the fine (but perhaps overhyped) rock climbs on Hwy 20, Cutthroat S. Buttress is a nice climb. You could get in line on one of the trade routes recommended above. Sure, you'll find clean rock, but with three people and the crowds you typically meet on those climbs......jeeesh. Quote
erik Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 pope there are enough good routes up at the pass to fit the desired description that if say a party was on intended line then you could move on over to the next option. Quote
pope Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 Yes, I suppose. However, on my last two trips to the area, it seemed that every route mentioned by Nelson had at least three parties on it and I'm not exaggerating. There is quality climbing to be found up there beyond the Liberty Bell massif. Quote
erik Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 hell yeah there is.........bp just sent the gato negro and that just goes to show how much more potential is up there. it is too bad when people cannot deviate from the select guide books. Quote
Attitude Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 pope said: With three people who want a quality introduction to Washington climbing, without having to sit in line on one of the fine (but perhaps overhyped) rock climbs on Hwy 20, Cutthroat S. Buttress is a nice climb. You could get in line on one of the trade routes recommended above. Sure, you'll find clean rock, but with three people and the crowds you typically meet on those climbs......jeeesh. Unfortunately, Cutthroat is also in Nelson and therefore another victim of crowding. The Boe-Alps use it for teaching beginners as well. Quote
glassgowkiss Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 climbgirl- you should climb straight into my bed upon my return. honed on diet of limestone, runout sandstone, good beer and horny polish women nothing can stop me..... Quote
allthumbs Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 hey glascowshitz- I hear you been playin' the slobber blues on some polish meat whistle. You savage. Quote
ClimbingGirl33 Posted July 30, 2003 Author Posted July 30, 2003 Thanks for all the beta everyone . . . decisions, decisions. As for the proposals - yeah . . . right. NEXT! Quote
pope Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 Attitude said: pope said: With three people who want a quality introduction to Washington climbing, without having to sit in line on one of the fine (but perhaps overhyped) rock climbs on Hwy 20, Cutthroat S. Buttress is a nice climb. You could get in line on one of the trade routes recommended above. Sure, you'll find clean rock, but with three people and the crowds you typically meet on those climbs......jeeesh. Unfortunately, Cutthroat is also in Nelson and therefore another victim of crowding. The Boe-Alps use it for teaching beginners as well. Damn, damn, damn. That piece of shit made it into Nelson's guide? OK, officially this time, the South Buttress of Cutthroat is a terrible climb. Loose, dangerous, mossy, perennially damp, and haunted by the ghost of an old pederast miner. STAY AWAY FROM THIS CLIMB! Quote
fleblebleb Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 The only good reason to climb the Cutthroat butt is to look at it from a distance later and think, hey, that mountain looks cool! It's mostly a 3rd class shrubbery yawn while you're on it and the descent sucks butt. In other words, climb it once Quote
nolanr Posted July 31, 2003 Posted July 31, 2003 I think Cutthroat is worth climbing once. It is gaining popularity. Last weekend it saw more traffic than the Beckey Route on Lib. Bell, no joke. Surprisingly uncrowded in the whole group S of the Pass. Quote
ClimbingGirl33 Posted August 13, 2003 Author Posted August 13, 2003 OK = some my pals arrive on Thursday and we have Friday to climb. Squamish is out because it's too much of a drive for a day trip for these guys. Soon grasshopper . . . Unsure if we'll have trad. gear available (depends on how packing goes I guess). They really want to get on rock . . . and aren't as thrilled about any long approaches (think Rumney) So Part 2: If you had one day to SPORT climb on Friday - where would you go. Any must do routes up in Leavenworth? Quote
Szyjakowski Posted August 13, 2003 Posted August 13, 2003 worthy lTown sportO crags... all @ dripwall all @ rattlesnake rock most @ castle rock (mostly trad....few sport-need gear too; except das musak) puzzlepalace and other crags near there... many others but more slabby then the rumney folk probably want to deal with, but the rock sure isn't as schistie.... Quote
pope Posted August 13, 2003 Posted August 13, 2003 ClimbingGirl33 said: So Part 2: If you had one day to SPORT climb on Friday - where would you go. Sport climb? I was under the impression that you intended to go climbing. Quote
chucK Posted August 13, 2003 Posted August 13, 2003 Condomorphine, that's the place for you. Hope you have a lot of draws. Quote
slaphappy Posted August 13, 2003 Posted August 13, 2003 Szyjakowski said: worthy lTown sportO crags... all @ dripwall all @ rattlesnake rock most @ castle rock (mostly trad....few sport-need gear too; except das musak) puzzlepalace and other crags near there... many others but more slabby then the rumney folk probably want to deal with, but the rock sure isn't as schistie.... Ben's suggestions are good but here's a few more... a copy of the new guide will help you as well. *Duty Dome/ Off Duty area- half dozen or so bolted pitches in the 5.8+/ 5.10- range all of high quality. Must do's- Straight Street 5.9+ (pitch 1, 2nd needs a few pieces), Aquamarine 5.9+(requires a few pieces). Also close proximity to Fish Wall, Jazzy Document, Snaakes!, and Yard Art (some require a small rack) * Clem's Holler- 10-12 bolted pitches ranging from 5.7-5.11. Must do's- Gun Rack 5.9 roof, Nettlesome 5.9+, Playin Possum 5.10- (pitch 3 is best), Perils of Pauline 5.11, Poultry in Motion 5.10. From Clem's take trail left (west) to Retardant- Must do's- Red Tide 5.10-, Seven Sea's 5.7 (require's a few pieces), Continue up trail to Special Spot- Must do's- The Javelin 5.10- classic, Opening Ceremonies 5.9 From Clem's take the trail to the right (East) Nut House- Must do's- State of Dillusion 5.10- (requires small rack), Pistachio Pillar 5.10+ (not in guide), Chalk Treatment 5.10- (requires small rack), Committed 5.11+ (all gear but shares anchors with Chalk Treatment so it's a good TR may require a directional) continue up gully/trail to Puzzle Palace- Must do's- Perplexus 5.10, Cryptogram 5.9+. *4th of July Rock- 5.9-5.11 Must do's- Beer and Loafing 5.10- (small rack), Facelift 5.10-, One of the finest "sport" routes in Leavenworth, Just the Facts w/ Diving Diamondbacks finish- 5.11- *Pearly Gates-right side- Must do's-Veins of Glory 5.10-, Milky Way 5.9+, The Scene is Clean 5.8, The Dog Ate My Topo 5.7. Bring a rack and do Celestial Groove 5.9 One of the finest Leavenworth cracks! If you only have quickdraws Clem's Holler is your best bet. Hope this helps, good luck and have fun! Quote
ClimbingGirl33 Posted August 13, 2003 Author Posted August 13, 2003 Yeah - I was really hoping to do a trad/multi pitch or really check Squamish out. I've climbed at Conormorphine - and that is quite the approach. But at least I will still get on rocks! They've climbed all over so can handle rock other than Rumney Granite - think they just got spoiled by the easy approaches there. Thanks for all the beta for Leavenworth - I bought the new guidebook a few weeks ago, but your tips will help. Stay tuned for an update Who knows - if we have enough trad. gear (I am just starting a rack) we may hit Index. Quote
dryad Posted August 13, 2003 Posted August 13, 2003 I don't know if I'm insulting the place by calling it sport climbing, but I had a great time at 3 O'clock Rock in Darrington. The routes we did (Til Broad Daylight and Under the Boardwalk) supposedly have gear placements here and there but we didn't use any - the bolts were enough. There are harder routes too. Tons of fun if you like slabby face climbing. Really pretty place with some alpine feel. Topo: http://www.seanet.com/~mattp/Darr/arch.htm Quote
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