Doug_Hutchinson Posted July 10, 2003 Posted July 10, 2003 What the fuck and by whom? I was amazed to see all the removed anchors at the top many of the Breakfast Cracks classics and elsewhere at the Butte. There is a note on a tree above the Toothpick Wall directed at the perpetrator and mentioning his former signs (which I have not seen). Anyone know what is going on? It appears time for a huge retro-bolting, cleanup, lovefest at the much-maligned Butt, but first we need to know what is going on out there. Quote
Dwayner Posted July 10, 2003 Posted July 10, 2003 (edited) I ain't the choppin' sort...but maybe you should consider a little more top-roping, and a little less bolting in your life. Although I'm all for top-rope anchors as a compromise to bolting a top-ropable face. Those you probably shouldn't mess with. - Dwayner. ahoy! Edited July 10, 2003 by Dwayner Quote
b-rock Posted July 10, 2003 Posted July 10, 2003 Dwayner the bolts that are missing are all top rope anchors. There are very few bolted ground up climbs, and almost everyone who climbs here top ropes or leads the cracks. There's a handful of poorly placed shiney new bolts on a bunch of routes that were left untouched. This simply makes it harder and less safe to rig a propper anchor. I'd be happy to help with any cleanup and restoration. Quote
cj001f Posted July 10, 2003 Posted July 10, 2003 Dwayner said: Although I'm all for top-rope anchors as a compromise to bolting a top-ropable face. That's what they are. TR anchors - so you needn't wade through soiled prophylactics, beer bottles, and XXL used underwear to find a tree. Seriously lame to chop TR anchors. As much as I loathe the butt - I'll lend a hand. Quote
Winter Posted July 10, 2003 Posted July 10, 2003 bolts are aid. everything at the butt was a3 until now. discuss. Quote
wayne Posted July 10, 2003 Posted July 10, 2003 This is but a small chapter in the history of this crag. This has been happening for many decades you little kids. It is simply too accessable to keep hangers on it, TRY CHAINS IF YOU WANT TO ANCHOR IN!! Quote
rbw1966 Posted July 10, 2003 Posted July 10, 2003 Winter said: bolts are aid. everything at the butt was a3 until now. discuss. Dude, that 20 ft crack we did was at least A5 new wave. Count me in on helping with the anchors. Quote
texplorer Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 Are the bolts chopped or are the hangers removed? Why would someone go to such trouble to "improve" the asthetics of that syringe and condom laden place? You must have some neo-old schoolers gettin busy up there in P-town. Quote
bunglehead Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 b-rock said: Dwayner the bolts that are missing are all top rope anchors. There are very few bolted ground up climbs, and almost everyone who climbs here top ropes or leads the cracks. There's a handful of poorly placed shiney new bolts on a bunch of routes that were left untouched. This simply makes it harder and less safe to rig a propper anchor. I'd be happy to help with any cleanup and restoration. I like Rocky Butte! If you guys and gals up in p-town are gonna do a little cleanup, I'd be willing to drive down (up?)from Eugene to help out. Where else can you climb with semis rumbling by, with graffiti, syringes, broken glass, dirty etc. etc..? Call me insane, but I like the butte. I really do. It's usually pretty cool in the trees. Quote
iain Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 Perhaps the AAC would be interested in a cleanup event as was done before I think... Quote
Doug_Hutchinson Posted July 11, 2003 Author Posted July 11, 2003 The AAC has done cleanups in the past and is a source of dollars for hardware. I am already working on that. I understand Wayne's point about this being a little chapter in the sordid history of the butt, but along those lines, it seems about time for another "golden age" out there with new anchors and some brush cutting. I take off tomorrow for a two week trip (Lotus Flower Tower) but when I get back I plan on organizing something. I have access to a few rotohammers, anyone else? Why don't you hardcore Tues night people discuss plans over some cheap pints in the meantime and then we have a meeting out there Tues, July 29? Quote
rbw1966 Posted July 11, 2003 Posted July 11, 2003 I got dobs on the purple bike. Its going ot take a tremendous amount of hauling to rid that place of trash. I'm game to help in any way I can though. Who's bringing the tyvek suits? Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted July 14, 2003 Posted July 14, 2003 If hangers/bolts keep getting swiped/chopped, how 'bout throwing in some glue-ins as replacements? Most people lack a jackhammer or similar device, making removing glue-ins out of the average hackster's league. Do the glue! Quote
Picketeer Posted July 16, 2003 Posted July 16, 2003 What idiots chop bolts at Rock Butte? Vandals? Crack addicts? Not any sane climbers (although that is a bit of a questionable combination of words). Its in the middle of the megapolis! Not in some wild area. Quote
iain Posted July 16, 2003 Posted July 16, 2003 were the ones chopped the kind where the chain is held in place by the bolt itself and a washer, no hanger? Quote
Hal_Burton Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 The main tweakers in question are hitting the bolts with a hacksaw or sawzall and trimming the bolt flush with the rock. I wish they would get rid of the "chain-link-on-a-bolt" type anchors. Instead they've removed the anchors from such standards as Blueberry Jam, White Rabbit and Bird of Paradise, leaving ugly saw marks across the now "purified" rock. I'd fear glue-ins getting sawed off in the same manner. The Metolius rap hanger on a big-ass button head looks like its holding its own on Bird of Paradise. Thanks to whoever laid some shiney metal at the top of Phylynx and Tiger's Pause. Much appreciated. Enjoying them while I can... Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 Hal_Burton said: The main tweakers in question are hitting the bolts with a hacksaw or sawzall and trimming the bolt flush with the rock. I wish they would get rid of the "chain-link-on-a-bolt" type anchors. Instead they've removed the anchors from such standards as Blueberry Jam, White Rabbit and Bird of Paradise, leaving ugly saw marks across the now "purified" rock. I'd fear glue-ins getting sawed off in the same manner. The Metolius rap hanger on a big-ass button head looks like its holding its own on Bird of Paradise. Thanks to whoever laid some shiney metal at the top of Phylynx and Tiger's Pause. Much appreciated. Enjoying them while I can... that's fucking bunk yo! hack saw!!?! phaqin amateurs! yeah they are really doing a service to the rock Quote
CraigA Posted July 17, 2003 Posted July 17, 2003 Let me know when the clean-up gets scheduled, I'd be happy to help. Craig Quote
catbirdseat Posted July 19, 2003 Posted July 19, 2003 From the sounds of it, the perpetrators are probably not climbers at all, but neighbors who think they can get rid of climbers by chopping the anchors. The thing to do is to place the anchors below the top and out of reach. You'd have to lead the pitch to set up a top rope, but I'd bet the anchors wouldn't see a sawzall again. Quote
snoboy Posted July 19, 2003 Posted July 19, 2003 Just below the edge, glue ins, or Petzl LongLife (needs a 12mm bit) for longest life. Quote
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