layton Posted June 9, 2003 Share Posted June 9, 2003 Since I have nothin' better to do than read the damn things, what are the Best and Worst guidebooks for a Major area (so we know what the hell your talkin about)? Absolute Best-winner Kevin Mclane or Joe Joe 3 way tie for Squamish and SW BC Select or Waterfall ice. Squamish is good b/c of the printing quality, photos instead of topos, and relevant beta. also squamish kicks ass. SW BC has the same going for it, but a little more innaccuracies but the amazing photos and routes make up for it. I like the approach sections w/photos too. Good work KEvin. But Joe Joe ties it also b/c of the shear enormity of his book and I haven't cursed him once while route finding or approaching. Something to be said for that. Awesome photos, could use more though. Worst: No questions, Red Rocks by Todd Swain. Horrid photos or lack thereof, something that is easily fixed. He has glaring misinformation or lack thereof. The worst part is after 3 or 4 revisions, he hasn't fixed any of his previous errors! Bound shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 9, 2003 Share Posted June 9, 2003 squamish is the shit. smith kind of sucks, but it's probably not the worst. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted June 9, 2003 Share Posted June 9, 2003 (edited) Oh yeah, Swain's book wins hands down for worst. The Climbing Washington book comes in a close second. I vote for Alan Watts' Smith guide for the best. It can't get much better than that. I can't wait to see the update. TLG, what the hell have you been reading? Waddya want a bunch of road signs? Edited June 9, 2003 by Winter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted June 9, 2003 Share Posted June 9, 2003 Kevin Mclane's book is cool but who took all those horrid photos? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted June 9, 2003 Share Posted June 9, 2003 you mean the one with peter croft stemming on shaddow runout 30+ feet above pro! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted June 9, 2003 Share Posted June 9, 2003 nah the old settler ones in particular. duck a l'orange Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted June 9, 2003 Share Posted June 9, 2003 like Playboy without the pictures bah !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sphinx Posted June 9, 2003 Share Posted June 9, 2003 Thomas' oregon high book. Watts' smith book. What really sucks: anything written by Smoot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted June 9, 2003 Share Posted June 9, 2003 you should know, Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted June 9, 2003 Share Posted June 9, 2003 Trask's guide to SnoHO petting zoos and the secret handshakes to get you in the back room. foward by Necro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted June 9, 2003 Share Posted June 9, 2003 POTD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klenke Posted June 9, 2003 Share Posted June 9, 2003 trask said: like Playboy without the pictures bah !!! When I was in college, one of my friends in the dorm had a blind roommate for a while. The roommate subscribed to Playboy--the braille version. Pages and page and pages of raised dots on white paper, that's all. I found it quite unstimulating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted June 9, 2003 Share Posted June 9, 2003 klenke said: trask said: like Playboy without the pictures bah !!! When I was in college, one of my friends in the dorm had a blind roommate for a while. The roommate subscribed to Playboy--the braille version. Pages and page and pages of raised dots on white paper, that's all. I found it quite unstimulating. i think you need to read it faster!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted June 9, 2003 Share Posted June 9, 2003 I thought all the bumps were for her pleasure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirp Posted June 9, 2003 Share Posted June 9, 2003 (edited) Actually, having just moved from Red Rocks I must say the Red Rocks guide dosent suck ( as a local I found that many visiting climbers tended to whine alot about being lost or the inconveinience of having to actually use their heads to find a crag ), cest la vie. I must say tho that these were generally the sport climbing crowd. The long routes in the canyons got a much hipper crowd. The best guidebooks, have the least amount of "mommas boy" data ie; Detailed topos, locator pics, GPS waypoints, the word dude, and etc. As far as I am concerned, basic route info, general directions, light beta and a HEFTY dose of history would be sufficient. Too many people consider/expect "The Guidebook" to be the ultimate reference, to hold their hands as they walk from route to route. Dont get me wrong, I have a huge collection of guidebooks in my library but the excitement of adventure and discovery should still be a BIG part of outing. I dont need a running beta to have fun. Best guide book IMHO: Paul Pianas, Black Hills Needles guide ( it has good info and a buttload of history and cool pics) Worst guidebook: Any sport climbing guide. ( although I must admit the generic quality tends to require more delineation ) Anyhow, the ultimate goal is fun and each of us perceives and achieves that in their own way. Edited June 9, 2003 by chirp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 The old Climbing guide to Or was notorious for mistakes,(one on every page in the Smith section) .One page had mistakes on every route,says Alan Watts. A glaring error on the approach to Mt Washington that has sent countless people into the wrong area! (Padgens Lake). Oregon Rock and anything from Smoot, again, are bad. For content alone if nothing else, Select Alpine Canadian Rockies, as well as the Southern BC one are the best, next to the Portland Rock Climbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrDoolittle Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 Ah, has anyone mentioned the Bjornstad guides? Three volumes of oblivion-seeking, 2X4 protected, Walt Shipley unabomber fests? Phaqing useless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 MrDoolittle said: Ah, has anyone mentioned the Bjornstad guides? Three volumes of oblivion-seeking, 2X4 protected, Walt Shipley unabomber fests? Phaqing useless so true but then again who puts stock in any desert beta?? fisher towers not to be included in any statement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norsky Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 Nobody has mentioned any of the doo doo guides to City of Rocks. I've purchased Bingham's guide, looked through the Falcon Guide (which has reverse images), and purchased a sheit bundle of photo copies at the visitor building. A new one is due that is quality. What's going on with the Castle Ranch (Rock?) area??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 The new Exit 38 guide vaccuums - The new 11worth guide - Smoot's N Cascades - New Sky Valley - IMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 Oh, yeah - the Squamish guide is the best by far, methinks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirp Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 MrDoolittle said: Ah, has anyone mentioned the Bjornstad guides? Three volumes of oblivion-seeking, 2X4 protected, Walt Shipley unabomber fests? Phaqing useless The Very first Bjornstad Guide "Desert Rock" was and is the best. Cool pics, routes, and best of all, local anecdotes, history and geology and environmental information ( cryptobiotic soil, flora, and climbing impact). His subsequent volumes tend to lack the historical aspect and alas, some of the mystique of the first single volume. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 Macymera's Yos Big Walls Smoot's Climbing Oregons Cascades Watt's Smith guide Nelson's Cascade Select Portland Rock Climbs Yosemite Free Climbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_Route Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 Routes & Rocks in the Mt. Challenger Quadrangle by R. W. Tabor, D. F. Crowder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 The climbing guide to the Sawtooth Range in Idaho. You've gotta make a side trip to Ketchum to see it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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