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best/worst guidebooks


layton

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Since I have nothin' better to do than read the damn things, what are the Best and Worst guidebooks for a Major area (so we know what the hell your talkin about)?

 

Absolute Best-winner Kevin Mclane or Joe Joe

3 way tie for Squamish and SW BC Select or Waterfall ice.

Squamish is good b/c of the printing quality, photos instead of topos, and relevant beta. also squamish kicks ass. SW BC has the same going for it, but a little more innaccuracies but the amazing photos and routes make up for it. I like the approach sections w/photos too. Good work KEvin. But Joe Joe ties it also b/c of the shear enormity of his book and I haven't cursed him once while route finding or approaching. Something to be said for that. Awesome photos, could use more though.

 

Worst: No questions, Red Rocks by Todd Swain.

Horrid photos or lack thereof, something that is easily fixed. He has glaring misinformation or lack thereof. The worst part is after 3 or 4 revisions, he hasn't fixed any of his previous errors! Bound shit.

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Oh yeah, Swain's book wins hands down for worst. The Climbing Washington book comes in a close second.

 

I vote for Alan Watts' Smith guide for the best. It can't get much better than that. I can't wait to see the update.

 

TLG, what the hell have you been reading? rolleyes.gif Waddya want a bunch of road signs?

Edited by Winter
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trask said:

like Playboy without the pictures

bah !!!

 

When I was in college, one of my friends in the dorm had a blind roommate for a while. The roommate subscribed to Playboy--the braille version. Pages and page and pages of raised dots on white paper, that's all. I found it quite unstimulating.

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klenke said:

trask said:

like Playboy without the pictures

bah !!!

 

When I was in college, one of my friends in the dorm had a blind roommate for a while. The roommate subscribed to Playboy--the braille version. Pages and page and pages of raised dots on white paper, that's all. I found it quite unstimulating.

 

i think you need to read it faster!!!!

 

yellaf.gif

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Actually, having just moved from Red Rocks I must say the Red Rocks guide dosent suck ( as a local I found that many visiting climbers tended to whine alot about being lost or the inconveinience of having to actually use their heads to find a crag ), cest la vie. I must say tho that these were generally the sport climbing crowd. The long routes in the canyons got a much hipper crowd.

 

The best guidebooks, have the least amount of "mommas boy" data ie; Detailed topos, locator pics, GPS waypoints, the word dude, and etc. As far as I am concerned, basic route info, general directions, light beta and a HEFTY dose of history would be sufficient.

 

Too many people consider/expect "The Guidebook" to be the ultimate reference, to hold their hands as they walk from route to route. Dont get me wrong, I have a huge collection of guidebooks in my library but the excitement of adventure and discovery should still be a BIG part of outing. I dont need a running beta to have fun.

 

Best guide book IMHO: Paul Pianas, Black Hills Needles guide ( it has good info and a buttload of history and cool pics)

 

Worst guidebook: Any sport climbing guide. ( although I must admit the generic quality tends to require more delineation )

 

Anyhow, the ultimate goal is fun and each of us perceives and achieves that in their own way.

Edited by chirp
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The old Climbing guide to Or was notorious for mistakes,(one on every page in the Smith section) .One page had mistakes on every route,says Alan Watts.

A glaring error on the approach to Mt Washington that has sent countless people into the wrong area! (Padgens Lake).

Oregon Rock and anything from Smoot, again, are bad.

 

For content alone if nothing else, Select Alpine Canadian Rockies, as well as the Southern BC one are the best, next to the Portland Rock Climbs

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MrDoolittle said:

Ah, has anyone mentioned the Bjornstad guides? Three volumes of oblivion-seeking, 2X4 protected, Walt Shipley unabomber fests? Phaqing useless moon.gif

 

so true

 

but then again who puts stock in any desert beta?? fisher towers not to be included in any statement.

 

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Nobody has mentioned any of the doo doo guides to City of Rocks. I've purchased Bingham's guide, looked through the Falcon Guide (which has reverse images), and purchased a sheit bundle of photo copies at the visitor building. A new one is due that is quality. What's going on with the Castle Ranch (Rock?) area???

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MrDoolittle said:

Ah, has anyone mentioned the Bjornstad guides? Three volumes of oblivion-seeking, 2X4 protected, Walt Shipley unabomber fests? Phaqing useless moon.gif

 

The Very first Bjornstad Guide "Desert Rock" was and is the best. Cool pics, routes, and best of all, local anecdotes, history and geology and environmental information ( cryptobiotic soil, flora, and climbing impact). His subsequent volumes tend to lack the historical aspect and alas, some of the mystique of the first single volume. cantfocus.gif

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