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Posted
dberdinka said:

Split Pillar. If it was on the ground The Sword would be the easiest 5.11a in the world.

thats cuz its fucking 10d, dipshit. ana 10d is harder thana 10b. next stupid question.

Posted
Jerome said:

The Sword is harder technically, but the Split is much harder. The Split is the best crack pitch I've ever lead.

 

Jerome

you need to get out more often.

i think the sword is a cooler lead. the exposure is more. but the split pillar is way cool, too. like comparing olde english 800 to king cobra: it all fuckin works. bigdrink.giffruit.gifbigdrink.gif

Posted
lummox said:

Jerome said:

The Sword is harder technically, but the Split is much harder. The Split is the best crack pitch I've ever lead.

 

Jerome

you need to get out more often.

i think the sword is a cooler lead. the exposure is more. but the split pillar is way cool, too. like comparing olde english 800 to king cobra: it all fuckin works. bigdrink.giffruit.gifbigdrink.gif

 

I do need to get out more! Got any money for me?

 

And the Split is a cooler lead. cool.gif

 

Jerome

Posted
lummox said:

thats cuz its fucking 10d, dipshit. ana 10d is harder thana 10b. next stupid question.

 

Ouch!! That kinda hurts my feelings. Please keep insulting me I like your icon blush.gif

Posted
Jerome said:

lummox said:

Jerome said:

The Sword is harder technically, but the Split is much harder. The Split is the best crack pitch I've ever lead.

 

Jerome

you need to get out more often.

i think the sword is a cooler lead. the exposure is more. but the split pillar is way cool, too. like comparing olde english 800 to king cobra: it all fuckin works. bigdrink.giffruit.gifbigdrink.gif

 

I do need to get out more! Got any money for me?

 

And the Split is a cooler lead. cool.gif

 

Jerome

Jerome, you tool, there's no bat shit or bird guano on split...how can it be a cool lead for you???? rolleyes.gifrolleyes.gifrolleyes.gif

Posted
RuMR said:

Jerome said:

lummox said:

Jerome said:

The Sword is harder technically, but the Split is much harder. The Split is the best crack pitch I've ever lead.

 

Jerome

you need to get out more often.

i think the sword is a cooler lead. the exposure is more. but the split pillar is way cool, too. like comparing olde english 800 to king cobra: it all fuckin works. bigdrink.giffruit.gifbigdrink.gif

 

I do need to get out more! Got any money for me?

 

And the Split is a cooler lead. cool.gif

 

Jerome

Jerome, you tool, there's no bat shit or bird guano on split...how can it be a cool lead for you???? rolleyes.gifrolleyes.gifrolleyes.gif

 

A pair of hardcore Smith climbers were retreating from Perry's Layback due to insufficient strength. Whimpering, shaking, and generally having a hellish time of it, they exuded from their skin much weakness in the form of guano.

 

Through this I climbed; thusly did the pitch feel normal.

 

yelrotflmao.gif

 

Jerome

Posted

Speaking of the Grand Wall, how many hours (including waiting for slower parties to finish before you etc) has it taken you folks to climb to :1) to Bellygood, 2) to the top via Roman Pillars? Also, if you did the Roman Pillars finish, which route did you take?

Posted
Gaston_Lagaffe said:

Speaking of the Grand Wall, how many hours (including waiting for slower parties to finish before you etc) has it taken you folks to climb to :1) to Bellygood, 2) to the top via Roman Pillars? Also, if you did the Roman Pillars finish, which route did you take?

 

It will come down to who you get behind. Lots of people like to climb just the top of the split pillar and rap. The route can be clogged down low.

 

As for comparing the two, I would call the split pillar much easier than the sword pitch. But Perry's lb is harder than both of those. The route is good fun though and is very feasible for the 5.11 leader.

Posted
Jerome said:

No need.

 

Have fun in Yosemite!

 

Jerome

 

Cheers Jerome!

 

Yo-so-mighty is gonna kick some ass!! Hopefully not mine...we leave wednesday night at 8pm

 

I'M SOO STOKED!!

Take care,

 

We have to hit squish some more this summer...

 

Posted

cake v. pie--i found the Sword less sustained but more difficult. both tasty bigdrink.gif

perry's, if'n i recrawl correct-like, is an enduro-fest mostly about yer guns (after climbing some tough-ish pitches)--clip bolts and run for the no-hands rest. caveat: i'm a hack. stellar line, git on it thumbs_up.gif

Posted
Gaston_Lagaffe said:

Speaking of the Grand Wall, how many hours (including waiting for slower parties to finish before you etc) has it taken you folks to climb to :1) to Bellygood, 2) to the top via Roman Pillars? Also, if you did the Roman Pillars finish, which route did you take?

 

It's the Roman Chimneys

 

The easier option above Bellygood is to finish up the Upper Black Dyke. adventure-bolted .10b I think.

 

I haven't done any of it. bigdrink.gif

Posted (edited)

Gaston_Lagaffe said:

Speaking of the Grand Wall, how many hours (including waiting for slower parties to finish before you etc) has it taken you folks to climb to :1) to Bellygood

 

 

2 hours 45 minutes in 1992

Edited by glassgowkiss
Posted
glassgowkiss said:

Gaston_Lagaffe said:

Speaking of the Grand Wall, how many hours (including waiting for slower parties to finish before you etc) has it taken you folks to climb to :1) to Bellygood

 

 

2 hours 45 minutes in 1992

 

Hey Bob, I call bullshit. Prove it hillbilly.

 

and don't give me that shit about putting a boot in my ass either, cause that crap don't fly with me

Posted
MisterE said:

Careful, there, Trask...Our man is pretty hard....

I think we did it to Bellygood in about twice that in '94..

 

what's he gonna do, beat me up? shoot me? screw my momma? bwahahaha

Posted

I sure bob's time is good. I've done it in 3 1/2 car to to car. Just start early so your behind nobody and climbing in the shade.

 

dale

Posted

Very True. I have done Cruel Shoes as the start many times and would have to agree. Although it should only add a couple of hours. I think Cruel Shoes is one of the best climbs at Squamish!!!

 

dale

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