Attitude Posted May 17, 2003 Share Posted May 17, 2003 5.8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtw Posted May 17, 2003 Share Posted May 17, 2003 Gregm-- Â Arlberg in Wenatchee had a couple copies of the guide a week ago. (Leavenworth mount sports was out.) Â i can check if they still have any if ya want. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faust Posted May 17, 2003 Share Posted May 17, 2003 Dru said: actually though, what about Tree Route plus Upper 8 Mile Buttress. Â I was going to say the Tree Route, but thought that at 5.6 it didn't fit the criteria. What do the upper pitches go at? We did the Tree Route last weekend and thought it was a pretty fun, good beginners climb, but not really worth the two stars in the guidebook. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 17, 2003 Share Posted May 17, 2003 upper buttress grade depends on where exactly you go. it might be rated 5.snaffle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted May 17, 2003 Share Posted May 17, 2003 Sheeit, if we're dropping the grade to 5.6, I'd put in a vote for R&D. Mellow, multi-pitch, and a fun final pitch or two. Presented te wife with her engagement ring at the top of the rap off the side. She almost went over the edge. Total surprise! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted May 17, 2003 Share Posted May 17, 2003 Do R.D. with Cocaine Crack in the middle and it'd average out to 5.7+. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted May 17, 2003 Share Posted May 17, 2003 The fault catapult bone to canary linkup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted May 17, 2003 Share Posted May 17, 2003 Cpt.Caveman said: The fault catapult bone to canary linkup. Â . Make sure you bring your #4 for the secret #4 placement on Canary. Â Nice to have for the Bone too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted May 17, 2003 Share Posted May 17, 2003 When we did the Tree Route, we did three more pitches on the upper buttress. They were roughly the same difficulty as the earlier pitches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted May 17, 2003 Share Posted May 17, 2003 (edited) Buffy sez: "When we were packing up to leave some older guy showed up and free soloed the whole thing." Â That is twice in one week on this BB someone has called me old...... Â Fred is OLD! Hell, even Yoder and Nelson are old....I am not old . Hair color has nothing to do with age. Even red heads turn grey at some point. Â Now the real real question is how does Cocaine Crack turn into a 5.7? Â Not off the road, but Fault, Catapult, Winter Solstice is a combination that is one of my favorites also. Â Stack on that South Ramp at Midnight or the Flame & Roller Coaster Chimney combo and you have a couple of hours and just a bit more than 5.8. Edited May 17, 2003 by Dane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted May 18, 2003 Share Posted May 18, 2003 Ditto Givler's. One of my favorites in the Icicle. Go early. Â Bathtub Dome is also a great place to spend a day- from 1st to 3rd tier is awesome. I did all the bolted routes (thought the lower was maybe 5.7 and the upper 5.9) and the 5.7 chimney on the 2nd tier, then "Just Ducky" on the third tier with TimL. Just Ducky is a full ropelength of 5.8+ with some route finding challenges (shit, I followed, what do I know?). Bring lots of small to mid-sized TCUS for that route (up to .75"), double slings and 2 ropes to rap. Up and to the right of that, Condor Buttress will go at 5.8 if you yard on the closely spaced bolts at the 2 or 3 cruxes. Â There are also some good 2 pitch routes at the Pearly Gates that go at or around 5.8. Both slab and crack. Climbing up to 5.7 will allow you to TR a lot of stuff there too. Do a search here or check Smoot's site and you can find info about that crag. Â Cocaine Connection on Icicle Buttress is a way fun 5.7, but does not meet the "off the road" criteria. Go do the three pitches on BOB Wall that are 5.8 or less and you've made a day of it. Â Planet of the 8's is also a good spot- although I have only done 2 of the three routes there (the rightmost route seemed "stiff" for a 5.8+, but that was also my second season of climbing). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregm Posted May 18, 2003 Author Share Posted May 18, 2003 thank you all for your kind suggestions and offers. we did givlers and loved it, followed by some roadside flailing.  it's always fun to get on rock after you've been doing way too much skiing. isn't it sad how skiing can get in the way of climbing...  so my next question; has anyone ever skied the obvious gully directly across from givlers dome? it looks like it would be a sweet line if you had enough coverage lower down.  YAASS, greg   Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted May 18, 2003 Share Posted May 18, 2003   Dane said: Buffy sez: "When we were packing up to leave some older guy showed up and free soloed the whole thing."  That is twice in one week on this BB someone has called me old......  Fred is OLD! Hell, even Yoder and Nelson are old....I am not old . Hair color has nothing to do with age. Even red heads turn grey at some point.  Now the real real question is how does Cocaine Crack turn into a 5.7?  Not off the road, but Fault, Catapult, Winter Solstice is a combination that is one of my favorites also.  Stack on that South Ramp at Midnight or the Flame & Roller Coaster Chimney combo and you have a couple of hours and just a bit more than 5.8.   Ummm thats MUFFY and I didn't say you were older Just older than me  NICE CLIMBING oldtimer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted May 19, 2003 Share Posted May 19, 2003 gregm said: so my next question; has anyone ever skied the obvious gully directly across from givlers dome? it looks like it would be a sweet line if you had enough coverage lower down. Â Greg, were you looking at Cannon Mountain Couloir? I am guessing you were; if so, its skied very regularly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blight Posted May 19, 2003 Share Posted May 19, 2003 actually, you can't see the CMC until you are by bridge cr. campground. you are probably refering to the hook creek drainage that takes you up to the mole and the duolith. it is directly across the valley from givler's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted May 19, 2003 Share Posted May 19, 2003 Dane said: That is twice in one week on this BB someone has called me old...... Â I got carded twice in the last week. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted May 19, 2003 Share Posted May 19, 2003 (edited) "I didn't say you were old, just older than me" Â OK. I give this time. Hell, at my age I am just happy to wake up every morning. Â I'm off to Leavenworth this morning...anyone else? Edited May 19, 2003 by Dane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregm Posted May 19, 2003 Author Share Posted May 19, 2003 Blight said: actually, you can't see the CMC until you are by bridge cr. campground. you are probably refering to the hook creek drainage that takes you up to the mole and the duolith. it is directly across the valley from givler's. Â yes, it must have been hook creek, it definitely wasn't CMC, that's around the corner. i'm sure hook has been skied at some point, i'm just wondering if it's a good winter tour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted May 19, 2003 Share Posted May 19, 2003 gregm said: Blight said: actually, you can't see the CMC until you are by bridge cr. campground. you are probably refering to the hook creek drainage that takes you up to the mole and the duolith. it is directly across the valley from givler's. Â yes, it must have been hook creek, it definitely wasn't CMC, that's around the corner. i'm sure hook has been skied at some point, i'm just wondering if it's a good winter tour. call Rob Harris: he lives there and skis all the time. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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