gregm Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 a.) can anyone recommend some nice 5.7 or 5.8 (but not hard or sustained 5.8) multipitch trad out at leavenworth and preferably not too close to the road? b.) can you tell me exactly how to find and climb it because i just called FF and they said there is a new guide book coming out in about a month and i won't find the old one anywheres. or c.) can i borrow your leavenworth book? (u-dist / sand point area) tia g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 Orbit, directions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Necronomicon Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 chucK said: Orbit, directions 5.9 finger crack and run-out 5.8 face climbing may not be too much fun for gregm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 GREG U CAN BORROW MY BOOK I WILL BE OVER THERE TONITE... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 That ain't no 5.9, and besides the guidebook says you can avoid that part. But anyway, how about the first three pitches of the Regular Route at Careno? You could probably do the first pitch pretty easily if you yard at the first hard spot then take the chimney/corner on the left instead of the steep bolted face that goes right. Careno Corners on the same crag (duh) is easy too but pretty dirty and unfun . There's some rock called Planet of the Eights with a whole bunch of 5.8 pitches (Dave Shuldt recommended this one to me), but it's not multipitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 gregm said: a.) can anyone recommend some nice 5.7 or 5.8 and preferably not too close to the road? Givlers Crack on Givlers Dome Canary on Castle Rock The Fault/Catapult on Lower Castle Rock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 erik said: GREG U CAN BORROW MY BOOK I WILL BE OVER THERE TONITE... Is like ,come here want some candy little girl? You have just been trolled Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 richard_noggin said: erik said: GREG U CAN BORROW MY BOOK I WILL BE OVER THERE TONITE... Is like ,come here want some candy little girl? You have just been trolled BAKE U CONFUSE ME SOMETIME!!! I WANT MY TREKKING POLE!!!!!!1 AND MY GUIDE BOOK!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 Post deleted by mattp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 BAKER I WOULD LET YOU BORROW ANY OF MY GUIDE BOOKS, THAT ACTUALLY GOES FOR ANYONE........ AND I AM SORRY THAT I CANNOT ENTERTAIN YOUR HOMOEROTIC FANTASIES, I HAVE ENOUGHT WIMMIN TO DEAL WITH A COUPLE OF GUYS WOULD JUST MESS IT UP.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 Post deleted by mattp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_noggin Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 Post deleted by mattp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 Another vote for Givler's Crack. Fun, fun, fun. 200 feet of easy jamming after the face-climbing crux. Belay on top of the flake (short 1st pitch). There's another 5.8 nearby, at Alphabet Wall or whatever, but it's one pitch, right off the road, and hard for 5.8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 It's called Dogleg Crack and rated 5.8+. It's at Alphabet Rock. It's a good one and very popular. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dryad Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 Here's another vote for Givlers. Hey catbird, what was that funky route we did on Bathtub Dome? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 Can't think of the names, but the first pitch is 5.6, the second pitch is 5.7 and then you have a choice of several 5.8 and 5.9 routes for the third pitch. The 5.6 is "tricky" to protect according to the guide book, but I didn't find it bad at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attitude Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 Alex said: gregm said: a.) can anyone recommend some nice 5.7 or 5.8 and preferably not too close to the road? Canary on Castle Rock The Fault/Catapult on Lower Castle Rock The Fault/Catapult/Midway/Midway Direct goes straight up the side of Castle Rock in four interesting pitches of 5.6/5.8/5.5/5.6. But it is right beside the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 THERE IS A BOLTED LINE 5.SUPER EASY TO THE RIGHT OF THE DYKE THERE NOW ON THE 1ST TIER ON THE 2ND TIER IS A NEWLY BOLTED .9 ARETE AS WELL AS THE .7 CHIM ROUTE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 erik said: THERE IS A BOLTED LINE 5.SUPER EASY TO THE RIGHT OF THE DYKE THERE NOW ON THE 1ST TIER ON THE 2ND TIER IS A NEWLY BOLTED .9 ARETE AS WELL AS THE .7 CHIM ROUTE. I saw the bolted route on the first tier. Did not try it. Looks like 5.8-5.9? I top roped the bolted arete route on the second tier. It felt like a stiff 5.9 or even a 5.10a, but what do I know? E-rock said he though it was 5.10b. Anyway, it was super fun. I never got to the third tier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleblebleb Posted May 16, 2003 Share Posted May 16, 2003 I think Planet of the Eights is one of the best suggestions - three 5.8 slab routes right next to each other, the leftmost easiest and the rightmost hardest, and the anchor is shared in case you might want to lead one and top-rope the others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted May 17, 2003 Share Posted May 17, 2003 Fish Wall by Duty Dome has a mixed 5.9 called "Sardine Routine" which is cool, and a few other routes worth checking out, but a few are bolted Also "April Mayhem" and "Sonic Boom" at Trundle Dome are fun, both are mixed as well, but fun. There is also a 5.8 fingercrack lieback and flake route on the same wall there on the far left. None of these are multi, but fun nonetheless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 17, 2003 Share Posted May 17, 2003 I HEARD THERE IS THIS MULTIPITCH ON BRIDGE CREEK WALL THAT IS EASY AND FUN!! NOT CLOSE TO THE ROAD EITHER!! OR TOKETIE WALL!! actually though, what about Tree Route plus Upper 8 Mile Buttress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 17, 2003 Share Posted May 17, 2003 catbirdseat said: E-rock said he though it was 5.10b. what a softy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted May 17, 2003 Share Posted May 17, 2003 dryad said: Here's another vote for Givlers. Hey catbird, what was that funky route we did on Bathtub Dome? Givlers is awsome and truely not dificult if you are used to nice hand size cracks. When we were packing up to leave some older guy showed up and free soloed the whole thing. It is BEAUTY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attitude Posted May 17, 2003 Share Posted May 17, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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