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Posted

From the Exit 38 guidebook:

 

"The upper portion of Overhaul Wall and eastward are of a granitic nature, usually with slabbier, high-friction faces." "The caprock on Overhaul changes dramatically to a very solid, subtly featured and gritty stone".

 

Is that the stuff you are talking about?

Posted

Mattp –

 

I agree that for the most part 38 isn’t a great place to climb but there are some really good climbs hiding on the cutlets. (Cutlets is a term for a 38 clifflet that was inspired by ChucK’s post earlier today and I hope to see it become commonly used) These few climbs are worth finding and would be considered good climbs even if they were at Index or Leavenworth or Squamish. Don’t stay down in the dross ascend to the heavens!

 

Last time I was there I was looking at some bolts that were looking kinda funky and couldn’t help but think that perhaps instead of adding new routes the FA parties might want to upgrade some of their existing routes.

 

PP

bigdrink.gif

Posted
Peter_Puget said:

Last time I was there I was looking at some bolts that were looking kinda funky and couldn’t help but think that perhaps instead of adding new routes the FA parties might want to upgrade some of their existing routes.

 

HEY I ASKED THAT QUESTION LIKE 2 YEARS AGO AND NO ONE GAVE ME THE TIME OF DAY!!!

 

 

Posted

Agreed, PP, that there are some good climbs there; and Catbird may be right that "sucks" is too harsh a word (if that is his point). I'm sorry I dissed such a magnificant gem of a climbing area but it is Friday and I have nothing better to do but to say absolutely stupid things like Exit 38 is probably my least favorite of all Washington climbing areas. That doesn't mean I won't go there, though -- only that I'd go somewhere else given the chance.

Posted

Here's some hyperbole related to Exit 38.

 

I was just out a Darrington the other day thinking back about climbing at Index a couple of weeks before and I thought, "Shit!! These crags around Seattle, they got some KILLER views!!". Think about it, Index, Darrington, Static Point, Icicle Creek, Mt. Eerie, even Vantage, they all got some rawkin' views!!! But Exit 38? Most of the time you're in buggy second-growth brown lifeless jungle. Maybe, if you hike all the way up to Bob's wall, you can look out through the slash at another clearcut above over an Interstate Freeway. tongue.gif

 

That said. Everyone should go to Exit 38. Ya'll'll like it out there. Don't drive your own car though. hahaha.gif

 

Posted
Alpinfox said:

From the Exit 38 guidebook:

 

"The upper portion of Overhaul Wall and eastward are of a granitic nature, usually with slabbier, high-friction faces." "The caprock on Overhaul changes dramatically to a very solid, subtly featured and gritty stone".

 

Is that the stuff you are talking about?

"The Gritscone is a chunk of conglomerate sandstone deposited in a terminal moraine during the last ice age about 12,000 years ago. Translation - it's a big rock...

 

"...The upper left portion of the rock has a uniquiely course texture which makes for some interesting slamb climbing and if you're not careful, quick skin removal. "

 

The gritscone if it is an erratic would have to be the largest one I've ever seen. The presence of similar rock in other areas suggests that it is native to the area. Some similar gritty rock can be seen up at Interstate Park.

 

For you climbers more talented than I, the Gritscone does have a 5.11a and a 5.11d. I managed to get up the 11a once on top rope with a very active belayer. smirk.gif

Posted

i'm not going to try and sell anybody on the caliber of 38 BUT it does have it's own set of advantages as have been pointed out.

 

It's really convenient after work for a lot of people. The routes are short which isn't a plus in my mind most of the time. H/e after work this can be a fun thing and for new and/or out of shape folks this is a plus too. One of my climbing partners doesn't do anything but sport climb so it works. It's not ideal but it does have it's place.

 

I 'm not going to "plan" a trip to 38 but sometimes it's the best options.

 

The area CBS mentioned is fun. That .11a he mentioned (enjoyable climb!) has a .10d and .10a right next to it. (lets not quibble over ratings) I've had varying degrees of succes on these (maybe i need a more active belayer wink.gif) but I've had fun on all of them.

 

Guess all i'm saying is that it's a place to climb and that's not a bad thing.

Posted

Minx, dryad was just saying the other day that since you work in town and head east on I-90 every day you could stop by and join us at Exit 38. We climb with some friends every Wednesday evening at 5 pm.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Speaking of Exit 32, where's the guidebook?

 

I used to have the old Burdo photocopied pamphlet but an ex-GF threw it out. Could someone scan it in and post it? That would rock.

 

There are actually quite a few cracks up there, but I can't remember where they are, except for the Repo Man ones.

Posted

It's in the works I guess. I got a futures issue that has no beta but routes and grades and it is pretty cool. It seems some of the harder routes on WWI are not rated correctly sI was told by this guy that I belayed on a 13c last weekend. True Sporto!

 

Fun place though.

Posted
trask said:

RumR sucks donkey dicks

climbs like a girl too the_finger.gif

 

Listen you two monkeybitch circle jerkin' buffoons...anytime you wanna show me how to climb like a JOE, shoot me a pm...until then the_finger.gifboxing_smiley.gif

 

BTW...which one of you does the dishes? Greggie or twask?

Posted
scot'teryx said:

It's in the works I guess. I got a futures issue that has no beta but routes and grades and it is pretty cool. It seems some of the harder routes on WWI are not rated correctly sI was told by this guy that I belayed on a 13c last weekend. True Sporto!

 

Fun place though.

 

Garth Bruce will have an Exit 32 guide out this summer. Bryan Burdo is working on a comprehensive North

Bend guide including both Exit 32 and Exit 38 targeted for next summer.

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