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WA/OR Ice Conditions 23-24


bedellympian

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clouds parted enough today to look (january 10) - Drury is disconnected blobs of ice,  Pencil appears to have formed and fallen;  little-to-no ice visible on any of the usual prospects in either Icicle or Tumwater Canyon.  If temps drop as forecast, I'm hoping to see improvement by weekend.

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33 minutes ago, KingsMM said:

Columbia Gorge Ice! Post your photos! 

Mist Falls 1/14/2024

Left a V thread and backup screw 80-90' up. Use at your own risk. Likely will be under a bunch of ice tomorrow. Have fun, be safe! -Kip

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Saw your car at the bottom on our way further east.  I see you got the obligatory ice armor from climbing up there.  

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Mt. Washington / Amazonia ice came in the last few days. Last time I climbed these was December 2016. Today and tomorrow probably the last days they are in. CYA on the Iron Horse did not come in that fat this cycle. 

Mt. Washington above the parking lot lower flow

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Mt. Washington above the parking lot upper flows - didn't really form completely, very wet

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Amazonia ice main flow

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Scottish gulley thing left of main flow

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Edited by manninjo
added captions
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Dirty Harry's was great today! Fat, protectable, great sticks. This climb is just east of Dirty Harry's Balcony.  It is south facing about 1000 ft above I90 and is visible briefly from the freeway.PXL_20240117_002541020_MP.jpg.0d7865c2ce705a02a48411a8b31dee3a.jpg After hiking to the balcony, we bushwhacked down the drainage that creates this climb and rapped in. Climb is probably 70-80m long total, mostly WI2-3. It is moderately high volume. Even the forest had fat ice on the way in!

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Spotted a climb north of US 2 in Merritt the other day. Went to check it out today and a good chunk of the upper section looked airy and like it would be hard to get in good pro. Seeing as none of the group has had a day swinging tools this season we decided to save it for another day (if the PNW ice gods allow).

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Does anybody know what route this is? Looked around MP and such as well as the Washington Ice guidebook. Washington Ice had two climbs in the Merritt section but this one doesn't quite match up to either.

Kicking myself a little bit because I feel like I could have led it BUT always erring on the side of caution with ice. Hopefully it sticks around long enough and solidifies!

Thanks for any info =]

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@Kayleighm AKA "Climber Kayleigh" if those climbs are in, check out the Whitepine Ice (north facing above Whitepine Road) or maybe even Alpine Dropout near Lake Wenatchee. There are some other north facing climbs on Nason Ridge in the WA Ice Guidebook. Probably lots of good stuff in that area right now!

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5 hours ago, Kyle M said:

@Kayleighm AKA "Climber Kayleigh" if those climbs are in, check out the Whitepine Ice (north facing above Whitepine Road) or maybe even Alpine Dropout near Lake Wenatchee. There are some other north facing climbs on Nason Ridge in the WA Ice Guidebook. Probably lots of good stuff in that area right now!

So glad the moniker is sticking lmao. My bf and I drove out White Pine Rd a few days ago after skiing and didn't see anything in but we didn't hike up to look at the main wall. Alpine Dropout looks awesome! Thanks for the suggestion, I'll have to get some TR laps in first so I remember how to climb!

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