Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Jason_Martin

Fatality on Goat Wall...?

Recommended Posts

If its the guy by the same name who in all the social media accounts, pretty sad. he was sucking the marrow out of life for sure.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was in Mazama on Monday. This happened on Sisyphus. I was up on the ridge behind Edelweiss and the chopper flew by at eye level on the way into the valley.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Truly tragic. I grieve for this young man, for his friends, and for his partners who will remember those few seconds for the rest of their lives.

 

Gyms need to give ALL young climbers FREE basic training in rappelling, cleaning anchors, and other basic safety skills. There have been too many of these tragedies in recent years.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can we decide that simu rapping is a bad idea? Whoever is teaching this technique needs to stop.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

wise sir do not grieve

for every one of us living in this world

means waiting for our end

let he who can achieve glory before death

when a warrior is gone

that will be his best and only bulwark

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Can we decide that simu rapping is a bad idea? Whoever is teaching this technique needs to stop.

fucking-a-right - in some scenarios i guess it makes sense, but descending a glorified sport route i don't see why

 

unless i'm imagining this wrongly, whoever was on the other end of the simul-rap was damned fortunate to be on the lucky side, as otherwise he would have fallen to his death too, no?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bummer of an accident. Especially as a friend's daughter knew/knows those involved.

 

After reading the Mellow Valley News article, which was well written I am at a bit of a loss to fully understand what happened. One climber reached the ledge before the victim, but then what did they do/not do which caused the fall? Obviously the rope was no longer part of their system but why? Did they let go? rap off the end?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

from what I read from that article, it sounds like the one fellow got to the ledge and then loss control of his brake hand therefore letting the rope go through the device. this would lower the other fellow and when speed got high enough, it would be impossible to regain the brake side of the rope before it went through the device.

 

I could imagine the fellow on the ledge was clipping into the anchor. Just pure conjecture from a news article on my part.

 

no knot to stop the end, but in this case, a knot may not even have stopped it. Knots have been known to blow off in hard dynamic testing.

 

This is so sad. Not only for the poor fellow who died but also for the other three guys on the climb. Can't imagine the hell they are going through right now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I spoke with someone who responded to this incident. The climber who fell had a knot on the end of his rope and his belay device was set up correctly. The other climber reached the bottom of the rappel first and lost control of the rope. There was no knot in that end and it pulled through their belay device. The other two members of their party were by the anchor and attempted to stop the rope with their hands before it pulled through the anchor.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I spoke with someone who responded to this incident. The climber who fell had a knot on the end of his rope and his belay device was set up correctly. The other climber reached the bottom of the rappel first and lost control of the rope. There was no knot in that end and it pulled through their belay device. The other two members of their party were by the anchor and attempted to stop the rope with their hands before it pulled through the anchor.

 

that is pretty horrifying to think about

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Indeed. You rarely are allowed a non-horrifying way to learn a rappel lesson.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
pretty hard to do those things in doors though...

 

Actually, it's very easy to do indoors. You can put removable bolts in t-nuts on any climbing wall and set up ropes, anchors, and everything you need to learn, test, practice, and experience different set-ups.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I feel so bad for the partners. IMHO, we must not write these off as "I would never do that" because you could. People do every year. It just takes a single error or moment of inattention at the wrong time, or sometimes it's just bad luck. So we learn what we can, try to be careful, and keep climbing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe we need a rappel fuck up confession thread.

I could start with that I rapped off the end of my uneven, unknotted ends, rope at index. Fell about 15 to 20 ft to a ledge then rolled off that the ground below, another 15 or so feet. Below Rodgers corner some 12 years ago.

Got real lucky with only a simple spine fracture (no surgery needed) and a broken forearm bone.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe I'm just lucky, but in 20 years of climbing I honestly haven't had one close call rappelling. Or it may be because early on in my climbing career I read ANAM obsessively and have always been scared of rapping. I also tend to follow the standard BMPs (mark rope middle, clip in, test before unclip, never simul-rap, etc.). It isn't hard to do it without incident, but you certainly don't often get second chances if your attention to detail flags.

 

One thing I could be better about is backing up rappels. On long descents with good rock I will often forgo this, but I really shouldn't.

 

Now close calls with objective hazard, on the other hand.....

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Maybe we need a rappel fuck up confession thread.

I could start with that I rapped off the end of my uneven, unknotted ends, rope at index. Fell about 15 to 20 ft to a ledge then rolled off that the ground below, another 15 or so feet. Below Rodgers corner some 12 years ago.

Got real lucky with only a simple spine fracture (no surgery needed) and a broken forearm bone.

x2, though managed not to break anything :)

 

experienced a total anchor failure once too, well off the ground, while connected to a haulbag i was hauling on, and should have been killed by that - still boggles my mind we walked away from that one...

 

watched my buddy once, 1000 feet up el cap, almost rap off the long tail ends of a euro-death knot as well - we laughed at the time, but jeebus :noway:

 

knitting is probably less dangerous :)

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

glad you are ok Gene. yeah i mean maybe there are some perfect people out there, but really safety is a full time job that never ends. really your state of mind can change by the minute. when you're exhausted you just think different, for example

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

+1 on rapping being the scariest part of climbing Jason. for me the scariest is a multi-pitch rap, where you're hanging at a rap station.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I survived a total harness failure on rappel in 1972 - the days of swiss-seats. The water knot on my swiss-seat failed (ends fed back through knot), and I detached from my rappel-brake 80' from ground. In those days, standard practice was to route brake strands from brake between legs to brake hand (for additional friction around leg). When the brake failed, I instinctively brought my brake hand across my waist in front (body belay "locked" position), and managed to catch myself sitting in a bight of rope. From that position it was a simple matter to route the rope over my shoulder and complete the rappel as a dulfersitz. I don't recall how we retrieved my rappel brake (I was probably in shock). I have not used a water knot since that incident, and I still always rappel with the brake-rope between my legs. If Todd Skinner had routed his brake rope between his legs, he might still be alive. As far is I know (climbing 47 years now) I am the only person to have survived a complete harness failure on rappel.

-Haireball

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Maybe we need a rappel fuck up confession thread.

I could start with that I rapped off the end of my uneven, unknotted ends, rope at index. Fell about 15 to 20 ft to a ledge then rolled off that the ground below, another 15 or so feet. Below Rodgers corner some 12 years ago.

Got real lucky with only a simple spine fracture (no surgery needed) and a broken forearm bone.

 

A similar thing happened to me in the same spot circa 2012. I rapped off the top of BOC on a unfamiliar rope that, unbeknownst to me, had been trimmed. I rapped down to within the width of my palm between my device and the ends, which didn't have knots. I was able to swing over to the sloping ledge and reach the intermediate chains just below Roger's corner proper. Phew. I reconsidered having faith in a higher power after that (to no avail).

 

I broke my foot that same year on a short ground fall near the bottom of City Park. I was testing my solo rig on top of the little pedestal, when the shitty cam I was leaning back on blew out. I stumbled off backward and landed like a ballerina, toes point down. I realize now that I was probably rationalizing, "I'm not even climbing yet. I don't need to pay that much attention." Stupid.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×