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  1. Wondering if you guys have a preferred approach shoe. I know a lot of people just use running shoes and that is what I've used mostly, primarily the Brooks Cascadia trail running shoes, of which I've used since they came out...though I stopped for a while because it seemed like they got narrow for a couple of years (I don't know if they actually did, but I didn't like the way they felt when I tried them on). So I've been using those quite a bit, but man I pack them out quick. The ones I'm currently running (current year model) felt super packed out after a 15 mile day in the hills, and I don't think I had more than 400 miles into them. I know the life on running shoes it probably shorter than I want it to be. I switched to the Arcteryx Konseal FL approach shoes and I mostly like them, but even they are starting to seem a little packed out...or maybe I wish they had a shank. I used some Superfeet inserts and those stiffened them up a little, but still wish they had a shank...the bones in my feet were sore at the and of the day after 15-20 miles. My last outing in the hills with these and my feet felt no different than if I had used the Cascadias. I know it probably has to do with that I'm a lard ass (205 right now and dropping), but I just wish I could find the perfect light weight but burley shoes that maybe had a shank or at least better support/cushion. Maybe I need to try out the La Sportivas. I could also go back to just using mountaineering boots, but I sure like have lighter shoes for days when I'm covering more ground without glacier travel.
  2. Thinking of using my pertex equilibrium windshirt with pile fleece as a homemade pertex pile combo. What I think I want I can't find, a simple fleece with pile on the inside and smooth surface on the outside. I have a montane extreme smock and it's pile is made in this way and it works very well. I suspect pile on both sides or only on the outside would not work as well moving moisture inside out. Also Is waffle fleece better or worse than pile? Also Dont want any sort of wind blocker fleece. Alternatively I am using brynje mesh thermal top which works very well under the windshirt. Would I be better off to double up on the brynje mesh, if colder, or in more rain ? That seems a lighter option. Thanks
  3. I recently ordered hardshell bib pants from Mountain Equipment because they were on sale in my size and said "alpine climbing fit". When they arrived they fit great BUT they are SO baggy around the ankles like a ski pant. This seems ridiculous for a "climbing" fit and even with G2 boots on they seem like they are at least two inches too wide and just snag on crampons. Anybody have any ideas for how to either fix this, jerry rig it, or what to look for to actually get a a climbing fit?
  4. Hey guys and gals, Recently i came across this picture on the internet. After some sleuthing i found out what it's called and who makes is but i cant find many user reviews. I was wondering what the general opinion is. Are they any good for training or fun to use? Thanks
  5. In regards to Reb Latok, what is the purpose of the two loops inside the tent and one loop on the outside/top of the tent? Thanks
  6. With some of the next generation hard shells (stretchy, breathable) coming out (NF Futurelight seems to be the most advertised) I'm curious if folks have tried them or seen good unbiased reviews/comparisons. I've typically worn softshells in true winter conditions as much as possible and pulled out the goretex for wet ice or technical climbing with spindrift/precip only when I really need to. Curious if this new new stuff lives up to the hype and could be a quiver-of-one outer layer...
  7. Hi All, Anyone been in contact with Cilogear lately? Most of their trademark items on their site (IE worksack) seem to be out of stock and have been for a while and their social media accounts seem to have been quiet for the past few months. I have tried contacting many of the retailers that have carried their gear in the past and they all say they don't anymore and haven't heard from Cilo in a while I've heard various reports of the owner having battled a nasty case of pneumonia as well as that they have stopped accepting orders due to government/military orders being due. I tried contacting the shop but received no response. Anyway - hope they are well. Just curious if anyone has heard anything.
  8. Years and years ago, I started gearing up, reading, strength training, etc., for climbing. Never happened, never gonna, so I have a fair amount of gear for severe conditions (I was pretty extreme about spending all the overtime money I got on gear and was going to thin it down when done trying things) that I'm going to selling off now (besides, I could really use the money right now). Anyway, I have an original unused Bibler (not Black Diamond) I-Tent, Big Wall version, made for a Portaledge (I don't have the vestibule or the Portaledge). I bought it Marmot, so it's not a prototype or anything like that - it's the real deal. I figure it's worth really good money to the right type of climber, but wondering where I'd find the right buyers, and I'd like get it into the hands of someone who could really use it (it's heavier than a standard I-Tent because of the extra features for ledges and tie-in - it would be a shame to cut off the extras and use it on the ground only). I see the Black Diamond version (made in China, not the USA like the Bibler version) went out of production at $700, and that was not the Big Wall version. Bottom line, where would I find the right people to buy it, and what are some opinions on what it would be worth?
  9. I'm looking for a new boot to bridge the gap between my Lowa Mountain Expert mountaineering boot and my Asolo Powermatic 200 backpacking boots. I've had the Lowas for 10+ years and only use them a few times a year. They're nice but overkill most of the time for when and what I climb. Everything else I've managed to get away with using the Asolos. With something in between I could wear them for pretty much everything I do. At first I tried out the Trango Tower Extremes, Trango Tower, and Scarpa Charmoz. Extremes were more than I need. Charmoz were nice, but the Towers felt the best. Was ready to settle on those, but decided to try the Trango Cube as well. The Tower and Cube feel very similar, which was kind of expected because the outsole/midsole are similar. The Towers do have slightly more room (height) in the toe box. The difference is in the uppers, with the Cube having the unique seamless upper with rubberized exoskeleton. Pretty neat. The Cube also has the adjustable tongue which I guess is cool, but I didn't notice too much difference in playing with it. I've read a couple accounts of the eyelets pulling out of the exoskeletons, but other than that a majority of the complaints for both boots come down to wear of the outsole and rand. So it seems both boots are also pretty similar in terms of longevity. I'm still leaning towards the Towers because of the slightly larger toe box, but just wondering if anyone else has experience with either of these boots that could sway me one way or the other. Same sole stiffness. There's only a 1/2 oz difference in weight between the two pairs. The Cubes have a slightly higher price tag. Thanks! -------- Oh, and if someone runs across this looking for sizing info, I can confirm the Cubes run small like all the reviews say. The Towers are true to size for me. I bought the Towers in 43.5 and 44, and Cubes in 44 and 44.5. In terms of size comparison, Tower 43.5 = Cube 44, and Tower 44 = Cube 44.5. The outsole/insole lengths match up exactly for those sizes. Not sure why La Sportiva did this...maybe so they can say a 44 Cube is lighter than a 44 Tower, which is true, but when you compare models of the same length they are nearly the same weight.
  10. Looking at new boots for lower 48 winter climbing (Cascades alpine routes and Rockies ice/mixed). I've used Nepals for years and am finally thinking I should get something lighter that also climbs better. I have a relatively wide forefoot but otherwise a low volume foot with a high arch. This would ideally be used for everything from dry tool sport cragging to long waterfall ice routes in the Rockies to alpine routes in the Cascades. I know nothing is perfect but a light, dry, war, durable boot that climbs and hikes well would be ideal. I'm currently considering Arc'teryx Acrux but concerned about how well it climbs (at least well enough to crank WI5 M7 without being a disadvantage?). Also, the Scarpa Phantom Tech but concerned about durability of the sole and zipper (yes this thing needs to be able to hike on dirt, scramble rocks, and get put through the wringer). Was looking at the LaSportiva G5 but that thing seems to be crap in water resistance so I'm probably ruling it out? Unless there is a good mod to fix that? Thoughts?
  11. Thinking of getting a Brooks Range Alpini Shelter 400. http://www.brooks-range.com/alpini-shelter400-p/4005.htm Any info or experience with bothy shelters? Can two people sleep in a 4 man bothy for a night with only moderate misery? Thinking of using a bothy and pad combo with clothes. Could add in a SOL bivy and light quilt or a puffy. Mostly for summer usage but can be in any season , in cascades. Is there a better bothy than the Alpini? The other option is two people with SOL Bivi's, pads and a very light tarp. This is for emergency use on lower moderate climbing routes. So looking for lighter than for intentional biving. Thanks for reading.
  12. Headed down to Ecuador to do >5,000m climbs for the first time. I run cold even in the low lands, so thinking I should have double boots (that's what guide company recommends). Problem is that i have small feet (women's 7, wears Scarpa 38.5) and literally NOBODY carries size that small for any serious mountaineering boots, let alone doubles. Even online. Has anyone had good experience with local (i.e. Puget Sound area) shops who are willing to place special orders? Shops manned by "Bruhs" usually just shrug and say "don't have your size" and that's that. Any recommendation? Am thinking of LS G2SM or Scarpa Phantom 6000. Looking for warm yet light....
  13. Like to find a simple watch with a few functions. Mainly altimeter and time Maybe alarm clock. I find most watches have too many features for my taste
  14. So, I am looking for a synthetic belay jacket. It will only get used on climbs so I dont want to go bonkers buying a $600+ parka. The price premium isn't justified for me for the amount of use it will see. My upper layers consist of SW NTS 250 1/4 zip, Arc Fortrez hoody, Arc Proton Ar(hooded,) Arc Alpha SV if that matters. (I like deadbird stuff, it just fits me.) ....when combined this system is very warm to say the least and even in -20s here in Rocksylvania I rarely use this combo unless stagnant. I looked at the Arc Dually but kinda hard swallowing the price tag on it. Im considering the BD Stance... Any other suggestions out there on a synthetic parka that will do the job and not break the bank? I just dont see the sense in going nuts on this item being the limited use it will see. I just want something that works. I prefer synthetic on this layer but am open to down. I may also just rent. As always thanks in advance.
  15. Anyone here have a Grivel ice axe with an easy slider on it? If so is your slider like super easy to bump out of position while "locked" towards the top of your axe? When I have mine up top if I breath on it wrong it falls down the shaft. This seems like it would be really annoying on lower angle terrain where you want it out of the way. I tried looking for a US support link for Grivel to bug them and nodda. So I came up with a temp solution with some shock cord I had laying around, running it through the loop where the leash attaches to the slider, and when I want the slider in the top position I loop it around adze as seen in the photos below. Is it supposed to slide that easy? I mean yeah I get "Easy Slider" but this seems a bit overboard. Are there any cons you can foresee in regards to my solution? Only other option I can see is to remove it all together and run the leash through the biner cutout in the pick/down around the handle as many do with a standard leash.
  16. Hey folks. Time for me to drive you all batty with my overly inquisitive self again. So, I have decided to take a train from Pa. to Washington for my Rainier experience. I think the scenery along the way will be awesome. Any suggestions or tricks you all have on how to protect the pick, adze, and spike from gnawing on my other gear while on this multiple 1000 mile foray into the the PNW while in my duffle? Im using a Cassin crampon pouch bag thingamabobber for my spikes. As always thanks in advance.
  17. So, Ive been a backpacker the majority of my life with some climbing many years ago. In the process of upgrading my kit and am on the hunt for a new pack. I have been an Osprey die hard for years. Their pack geometry fits me. I also own many packs but I see the sense in a streamlined pack for above treeline endeavors. I actually tested a few pre production models for them before they hit the shelves over the years I like that you can really strip the Aether pro(top lid/flap, removable side pockets....) But the HMG is stripped from the gate and everything I have seen on the HMG is solid. Plus its waterproof so... My thought is the Aether Pro may be a bit more usable being I can also use it for backpacking being it has "some" features and not just an alpine pack. I have held the Pro, tried it on, blah blah blah. Nowhere near me to see the HMG pack. I also know that the back panel on the HMG isnt very breathable from all accounts which makes sense looking at the design Any thoughts here from real world use between the 2?
  18. Howdy everyone, got a question on approach shoes. I hope it’s not redundant or already been covered, i couldn’t find anything on it really. I’m torn on buying aluminum strap on crampons for my approach shoes. Camp xlc 490. I have an assortment of pons for my mountaineering boots when we do heavy alpine work, but I’m wanting something fast and light to use in case something quick comes up on a rock route on summer conditions, ie approach to the grand or on the exum ridge in summer where I would normally have approach and/or climbing shoes only or similar routes/objectives. Yes, I will take my full shank boots and auto pons on the north ridge of baker, haha! My question is, I would love to up the ante a little and get the camp aluminum pons with the steel front points (xlc nanotech) but they only come in semi auto configuration. Does anyone have any tricks or experience with getting those puppies on an approach shoe? I had the idea of buying both and attaching the green back to the nanotechs, but I’d have to drop 350 bucks! Or are there other options for this weight weenie?
  19. I just got a pair of the Camp 390 aluminum crampons for ski mountaineering. They fit okay but the front bails are too wide, so I'm getting some movement. Probably not enough for them to pop off but I'd prefer a tighter fit. I'm considering putting some other bails and wondering if it's okay to mix and match steel bails in there. My guess is they might wear on the aluminum over time. Should I care? Does any brand make a narrow aluminum bail that I can swap in? Thanks
  20. Recommendations for a good multipitch rope?
  21. One of the biggest problems I come across climbing in the Cascades is finding an appropriate shoe to climb in. For my first year of alpine climbing, I mostly used high top, goretex hiking boots. This worked well on soft snow and glaciers - kept my feet dry, and were for the most part crampon compatible. When it came to the rock climbing portion of climbs though, I found them to be less than stellar, underperforming my climbing approach shoes and climbing shoes. I did end up switching into climbing shoes and carrying the boots in my bag, but ultimately wanted something that climbed snow and rock well. Following that, I started climbing in boulder x approach shoes. The boulder x mids are goretex and high top, so work well for keeping my feet dry, climb extremely well on rock, can hike for miles in them, and worked reasonably well with strap-on crampons. But now they're discontinued. I have a pair of mountaineering boots, but they don't walk very well, and I'm hesitant to wear them on a 20km+ hike so that they can perform well in snow / moderately on rock. So what are you all using for your alpine shoes? We live in such a limited market area of the world... need something that hikes well, is waterproof and mid/high topped, strap-on crampon compatible, and climbs well. Why La Sportiva discontinued the boulder x mid is beyond me, but any awesome replacements?
  22. Hello guys, I am writing you with regard to the Grivel Tech Machine Carbon. I own a pair of these tools, purchased in Chamonix in 2016 and I have used them for 2 seasons, mostly for ice climbing and very little mixt climbing. The issue which has come to my attention recently is a delamination/bubbling of the carbon wrap on the handle, in 4 areas - please the attached video - https://youtu.be/A-tbiLyG0A0 I have failed to notice that bulging of the carbon fibre outer shell until now, or at least I don't have any recollection of the issue in the past. I must mention that only one of the axes presents this issue, the other one is completely fine. I have always used the tools with great care, without using or hitting them in any other way than intended. My concern is that this delamination might continue to expand and eventually appear on the entire length of the handle. Could you provide some advice/help/insights regarding this issue? Should I be concerned by this issue or it won't affect the ice axe in any way? Thank you for your help, looking forward to hearing back from you. Kind regards, Andrei
  23. I am tired of buying new lowers for BD expedition poles and bending/snapping them off multiple times a season. I'm tall, semi-uncordinated, and weigh 200 lbs, so I break a lot of gear. Big people out there, have you found a set of adjustable 2 piece poles that don't snap immediately?
  24. I am in the planning stages for a 2019 Denali ascent with a group. I own the Acrux, but have only used them ice climbing, a cold day on mt hood, and a warm day on Rainier. I was wondering if anyone has experience or knowledge if they will handle the cold temps of Denali? I sure would like to use these as opposed to my old plastic boots.
  25. Hi, Me and 4 of my firends will be attempting to climb rainier in mid July via the DC route and this will all be our first mountaineering experience. We have extensive backpacking experience and some winter camping experience up here in Ontario. We will also be taking 3 days of mountaineering course/crevasse rescue before our summit attempt. I am finalizing my gear selection and was hoping to save a couple of pounds on the tent. Our current plan is to rent real 4 seasons tents but a part of me just want to believe my Hubba Hubba tent would be sufficient. I am looking for expert opinion on the subject. Is it too risky ? What kind of wind can I expect up there ? Thank You
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