Rodchester

Some leathers are great for vertical water ice, but most are not. If you are going with leather and want to use it on water ice make sure it a a fully rigid sole designed to take a water ice crampon. Most leather mountianeering boots will not make a good water ice boot. Some will most won't. One thing to REALLY keep in mind, I understand that you are in MN and Ontario area? If that is true you know what cold is...much colder there than here and even much of coastal Alaska. Plastics will keep the feet warmer...no doubt. The PNW is actually a very warm range and many of the people out here have no idea what real cold is. (But a lot of the climbers do). But there are some leathers that have some insulation and are good for ice (Tecnica Altitude plus - actually a combo of some leather and synthetic that is popular among many water ice climbers)....but are no where near as warm as a good pair of plastics. Good luck

I think Messner said "murder" of the impossible. But I agree with your sentiment, to a point. Let the yuppies have their toys. Do you really think anyone will buy this AND actually use it? No.

Ok I have a question....in another thread on ice climbing I picked up a very distinct additude towards Krakauer. So what is the big problem? So he writes about climbing and the outdoors and makes solid cash doing it. He is a damn good writer, FAR better than most climbers. He is a good climber too. Do we rip on other climbers who can't on sight a 5.13c sporto route, or dig on a aid climber for not doing a route with five hook moves in a row, or tear into a alpine guy who won't lead a 5.11 grade IV? Why rip on Jon K? Is it that he somehow "sold out"? or what? Sure the whole 1996 Everest thing between him and Anatoli stirred up some personal feelings for some close to the situation, but did he really say or write anything that outrageous? They had different views...so does that mean we rip on Jon K? Just looking for opinions and trying to get why people say things about Krakauer.

Law suits are rare to non-existent. Saying the owner fears a suit is just bullshit. There has NEVER been a climbing suit go to jury in this state and I don't believe any other state. Climbing is considered and inherently dangerous activity and any participation by anyone is considered an acceptance of risk. This means you are on your own. Bill robins is a bit of an odd duck but I have found him to be a nice guy in person. Can't speak to his actions on this. Sounds like bull shit to me...but I would like to hear his opinion. Maybe he will post?

Wes, I have used the regular grivel screws, without the quick turn handle. I found the screw to be infrior to the BD. They were tough to place and tough to get started as well. I know others that have expressed the same opinion. Also the turn handle is large and just seems like it would get in the way and get caught up on things. If you get some let us know how they place and how they wear.

Hey Lambone, Good info...I agree...I have stopped using a daisey because they do just get in the way. They are safe and strong. Good idea to back up the clove hitch...I must admit, I rarely do though.

I'm with DRU. Numbers should help us...not be bragging rights. I couldn't give a shit about some asshole who brags about climbing 5.whatever...but I will high-five someone who pushes themselves to be better and is proud of themselves...especially if they buy a round. mmm beer

South Arete on EWS. Easy and fun route. learn to simul-climb too.

Snowfield = an area/patch/field of snow that does not melt out on a yearly/seasonal basis. Many snow fields are glacial remants...such as the Muir snowfield on Rainier. That is why you will have crevasses on SOME snowfields. But not all snowfields were once glaciers. Glacier = A dynamic section of ice built up to the point that its own weight causes it to move. Usually it reaches terminal depth at 100 feet of compacted thickness. It thenn moves toward the path of least resistence. Belive it or not it is possible to move straight down...yes down. When the glacier builds up an incredible amount of weight though ice thickness (usually around 1000 feet thick...no there are none on earth like this today) it begins to compress the earth's crust and push straight down. The simple fact of the matter is that there are no easy answers to glaciers receeding and advancing. Many have huge advances based on the same principal as hydroplaning. The water melt builds up and the glacier make big advances quickly by surfing, so to speak. Sometimes the build up can be such that a glacier should be moving fast...and it is not. It could be held up by some feature under the glacier that is providing more than normal resistence to the glaciers' movement. Until the glacier either changes directions or eventually defeats the resisting feature, the glacier may not move. There are soo many vairables and we just know so little about them. Dry Glaciers = When a glacier moves it picks up all kinds of rock and dirt from the peaks and walls around it. As the glacier pushes this material towrds its snout, or terminous, the ice begins to melt away. This leaves what appears to be a huge boulder field...which it is....but is it a huge bouldr field on top of a still moving and active glacier. This are actually quite common in South America. I have crossed a few. One question is: At what point does a receeding glacier become a snow field? No I am not a glaciologist and don't claim to be be one. But I have read about and observed glaciers for more than a few years. Anayway..that is my 50 cents.

At least we all like beer...right?

I use a 9.8 mm x 60 meters dry. Love it. Dry is for any alpine use. If you are a cragger only, skip the dry. Some say it makes a rope more durable. And some say there are aliens here on earth too. Maybe, maybe not. Sure if you are on really hard ass trad stuff with lots of edges Pope's points are well taken and should be adhered to. Simple....the fatter the rope the better is is on an edge. When I am cragging on harder stuff I use a 10.5mm x 55 meter. The rope technology has REALLY improved in the past ten years. A 10mm is stronger than an 11mm was ten years ago. But Pope is right that you still can't change the pyshics of the smaller diamiter cutting more easily...they just make the sheath more resistent to cutting. Who knows? Good luck!!!

Cavie, How about some route beta? What do they go at? Range anyway. I assume it is trad? How many routes...roughly...and what kind of pro...estimate please. Thanks.

I don't know what the rules are right now....but assume that you need a passport and bring it. We, both in US and Canada, need to make it as simple and effecient as possible on the border guards in both directions so they can focus on the real dangers....and not worry about us dirtbag climbers.

Not concerned about what sex your partner is? It seems Brian has become less picky. What gives Brian?

In Reply to Matt Anderson: Ha Hah Ha ha ha ha too fucking good.

DRU: What did people do before water filters? 4) Used iodine tablets. That is what I did before there were water filters.

You really don't ned any maps of the mountain. It is very straight forward.

If you are doing the standard route don't bother with a rope. Also regarding TG's advice on Reyes...he is not the only one to have this opinion. In fact MANY people agree that Reyes doe NOT support the locval community. I used some local guy who was REALLY cheap, REALLY cool, and I slept in his barn on straw. It was cool. Always aclimatize as was mentioned by others here. Also if this is your first time at that kind of altitude, you may want to stick to the standard route. learn to barter to prevent yourself from being riped off...look like a dirt bag.

take a bus out of Mexico city and sleep.

In any third world country do your best to look like a dirt bag climber. They know you don't have money. In Mexico and South America petty theft is te main problem. Violent crime is much lower than the states or even Canada. Always travel with at least two of you if you can. Safety in numbers. Watch your wallet, pick-pockets. Watch you rucksack from slashers. Overall it is quite safe and fun. Know the dollar/peso amounts and how top barter or you will be taken advantage of, ehat we call "white mans' tax."

Here is the way to go...don't buy one. Thats right don't buy one. They weigh too much, they take up too much space, they cost too much, they break/clog, and they say right on the package to carry iodine tablets in case it breaks/clogs. Now think about it. Why not just carry iodine tabs. They don't taste bad now-a-days and many have the neutalizing tabs that kill the bad taste. They are lightweight, cheap, don't break, and don't take up space. Filters are a scam. Especially in North America. You just don't need them. Over seas a really good purifier can come in handy...but I still use bottled water and just treat other water with iodine and have had no problem. In all honesty I do not know one climber that carries one in the States/Canada. If you want to waste your money go ahead. They all suck.

I think Nick is a fake and his post is BS. Even if he is real and was serious, it is still BS. Note that it was his first post...I hope we didn't scare him off. Look Nick, we joke a lot on this page...don't take us too seriously. It is just that you REALLY set yourself up on this one. We just couldn't resist.

Nothing like them corn fed inbred women. Buck toothed knocked kneed. Mmmm mmm the good old days. Hill billys racists..oh boy oh boy.

Nick, Are you serious or just trying to get one hell of a thread started? Either way...I have ten pound rock that I would like to test. I want to know how it carries in different rucksacks. I will give it to you if you promise to let each guy carry it for at least two full days in the back country. One day on the top of the pack and one on the bottom. I will need extensive data regarding how well it carries in each pack and in each position. Are you up for it? I will also need to have the ropck returned so that we may conduct extensive post-field test testing in my company's lab. You can contact me at 1-900-bul-shit. (Please don't take me too seriously...it is just this is such a good one I couldn't resist).

Oh boy NC. Well Nothing to say about the climbing except that there is plenty of good rock. But get ready for the heat and the humidity...it is oppressive. Winter lasts about 6 weeks, but it actually gets colder than it does here...sometimes you can even find some ice. I am sur you will find some climbers to hang with back there. Good luck!!!