Rodchester

I simply use glacier glases that are prescription. You wear glacier glasses when the sun is up, so just make them prescription glasses. Sun is down, wear your regular glasses. Most everyone I mountaineer with that has glasses does it this way. Contacts suck for mountaineering. They dry out, they bother my eyes, they are a pain in the ass to keep clean up there, the extended wear just don't stay clear. I do wear contacts when I climb water ice or sometimes at the crags. I just have too many concerns over the whole eye surgery thing. Fact is we just don't know enough about how the surgery effects the eye at altitude. Sure it has changed quite a bit since Beck weathers had hid problem on Everest, but has the new methods reallt been tested? So, if you are serious about altitude, I mean over 20,000, then I would be concerned. [ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

I am presently reading Five Miles High about the 1938 small team attempt on K2. I am half way and it is a good book. For anyone that is a fan of the Tetons there is a book called "The Grand Conspiracy" by Bonney. This is basically a history book of climbing in the Tetons that also squarely takes on the calims of "first ascent" by Billy Owen. It is not a finger pointing type of accusation, but a very well researched and backed up agruement that the Grand was climbed far earlier by a team of two. If you have climbed the dog route, "Owens-Spaulding," on the Grand you will like this book. Without knowledge of the Tetons the book may still be interesting, but with it you will truely understand the arguments of both sides. Every Teton fan should read this book.

I have a pair of the 5.10 Mountain Masters and I love them. They hike well and climb well too. I have made them last by ONLY using them for alpine climbs. If you use most any shoe that climbs well for other purposes, I think they will wear out quickly. Any lightweight shoe (non-boot), used as a true climbing and approach shoe, will wear out quicker than most boots. So I say the 5.10 Mountain Master.

Scot'teryx: That was me and Wopper. But the other guy and girl were not with us, we were just BSing with them on the summit. I asked you if you knew Chris Newman...right? And Wopper asked if you knew some other OSATer...right? If so that was us.... Good to see ya/meet ya!!!

Generally the "season" does not start until about mid June. So there shouldn't be that many people on the mountain. However, as VB said, "If the weather is good there will be more people. If the weather is bad there will be less people." Also the weather on Rainier at that time of year can be damn near winter conditions, especially above 10,000 feet.

Yeah, I was hoping someone that climbed the Sandy Headwall would post a report. I assume someone climbed it? I would be very interested in a TR and / or beta on the any routes on the Sandy side...anyone?

imorris: I don't mind the saddle so much. I have camped there three times and find it to be pretty much protected from the wind and flat. Great sunsets. But it is definately a high traffic area. Lots of people there and even more cutting through to get to the west side of the mountain.

I use a Blue Water ice floss on some routes 8mm x 37 Meters) and it rocks. I used it on the Ried Headwall this weekend. Certain applications, it rocks.

We summited about 12 noon.

Airmoss: I have never climbed the Leuthold. But my understanding/impression is that the Leuthold is strightforward and can be a bowling alley. I believe that the Reid is more diffcult in a couple of ways. The Reid is steeper, longer, and involves route finding. But that is just my opinion.

Wopper and I did the Reid Glacier Headwall route on Mt. Hood on Sunday (March 3, 2002). We slept at Illumination saddle on Saturday night. We had spoken with two climbers on the way up that had done the Leuthold Coulior on Sat. (cc:comer = Fairweather?). They had informed us that high winds had caused a constant barrage of crap coming down the coulior and that the Reid might be a better/safer objective. At about 3:00 a.m. a group of three Rondo skiers pased through the saddle on the way to the Leuthold. Another group had said they were going to the Yocum, but had the Leuthold as an alternative route. When we got up and ready to climb at 6:00 a.m, a party of five rolled into the saddle saying they were heading for the Leuthold. The winds seemed to have died down, but we figured on the Reid anyway, given the crowds on Leuthold. We left the sadlle at 6:30 a.m. We dropped down from the saddle onto the Reid Glacier with no problem. After traversing the Reid we turned right toward the headwall and started climbing the lower snow fan. We crossed the bergshrund to the left hand side and then enetered what I will call the left hand chute. The lower sections of the Reid are estetic and interesting, mostly just steep snow. We protected occasionally with pickets, where we figured a fall might result in a big ride. Then about half way up there were some icy sections. A screw or two here would not have been a bad idea, but were not required. Then we started to get hit by crap coming down. As it turned out, the three skiers that cut through the saddle at 3:00 a.m. had thought they were on the Leuthold, but actually were on the Reid Headwall. The skiers were understandably moving somewhat slow. There are many ways to climb the Reid Headwall. We tried to get away from the crap coming down by vearing left up a different gully. This put us on about a 10 foot section of 70-80 degree hard ice. Wopper lead it with no problems (Screw here would have been nice). The ice had good foot pockets, so even my aluminum crampons worked fine. I followed Wopper up, and wouldn't you know it, just as I was on the steep section the skiers kicked a bunch of shit down that somehow funnelled right into the gully I was in. I took afew punches with one hell of a punch in the nose. I saw stars, but held on. Once out of this gully we followed the skiers, traversing around some gendarmes/spires. This was almost exclusively on good snow. We threw in a picket here and there as a fall meant a big ride over a cliff or two. From here we could see down into the Leuthold Coulior. There were multiple parties in the coulior, but it did not look too crowded. There were no winds causing the problems of Sat. We noticed two guys coming off Yocum Ridge. The route from where we were, looked to be in about as good of shape as it gets. Good enough to know I'm not getting on it. But these guys did and we watched them top out by the top of the Leuthold Coulior. The Skiers took a break and we climbed up and around them. We finally broke at about twenty feet below the summit ridge (sub ridge) and took a much needed water break and candy bar snack. After powering up we traveresed the summit ridge to the true summit. Good conditions down hogs back. Overall impressions of the route: Both Wopper and I really enjoyed this route. It is sustained (40-50+ degrees) depending on how you do the route, mostly 50 degree stuff with some steeper sections) and not one you want to putz your way up. I would only get on this with good snow conditions and cold-ass weather. It is not an incredibly technical route, but does force you to actually climb the vast majority of the route. A fall on several sections of the route would result in a big ride if it was unprotected or not arrested. Not a beginner route, but not an expert route either. A good moderate route that climbs all the way to the summit ridge. We mostly simul-climbed and only actually set up what I would call an alpine belay twice. The route was very estetic and interesting, it could be made more difficult or more easy depending on which gullies you choose. Some route finding abilites are required. I would choose this over the Leuthold if you are looking for a slightly more diffcult and interesting route with fewer folks on it. One word of caution. This would not be a fun route to try and bail on. Sure you could do it, but it seems to me that finishing the route is easiest. Helemts are mandatory. I have no idea what the books say about this route. Smoot's book just says there are two gulleys that can freeze up but are otherwise garbage chutes.

Cotpaxi is generally referred to as the world's highest "active" valcano. How in the hell they got highest is beyond me. I am unsure if it actually is the highest active volcano, but everything I have ever seen on it, including the locals there, say it is the highest active volcano. Maybe some dolt at TNF just assumed it was one in the same?

Way to be!!! Fingers crossed...hope he has no lasting problems. [ 03-01-2002: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

I have always just used a 48 in equalized with the old loop in it. If I need to, I simply back it up with a 24 to another piece. I also regulaly tie in using the rope with a hitch. I am curious about the web-olette thing. I have seen them and get the idea. But who makes them and who carries them? Does Jim's shop carry them? REI? FF? Second Ascent? How long are they, usually anway? Is longer better? (Seems like more room to do more with)? How heavy? Thanks in advance....

Chongo: Dead horse icon here...but then again sooo true.

martha Stewart...now there is one I would pay to see...... being run over by her gardner. (Apparently she is such a bitch and tried to run over her gardner when he did something she didn't like)

Seriously I think this site need a "dead horse" icon.

Erik: Well, actually I would say my feelings were hurt....but your point is well taken. I seriously debated whether I should respond...but had to take it. I am not seeking to inflame, just point out the similarities...yes, I know there are differences too. Anyway...sorry if I am pissing people off. Just having fun. So Erik my brother, I will take your advice.....and stop kicking the deadhorse. (we need a dead horse icon for these types of occaisions) [ 02-21-2002: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

I know there are many of you out there that somehow think that giving a talk at a store or a slideshow is selling out to the evil corporate empire of the retail outdoor industry...but I say bullshit. and I am sure you will just jump in and slam martin for doing these things...call him a sell out for writing a book, slam him for guiding, etc. I don't care that Martin is going to be pushing his new book or his guide service. More power to him. Go Martin, Go!!! Don't take me too seriously...I don't.

Does anybody know what set this off? Was it a statement in a thread? Which one?

I swear I had nothing to do with it....wow.

AlpineK wrote: "I have a problem with Rod beating his chest. He could have posted the web site without doing this." get a grip...are fucking serious or just suffering from a huge case of penis envy? This is what I posted: "This is a friend's web page. It is mostly climbing focused with some great pictures from all over. www.carlosbuhler.com If you have some free time surf by." Just what is "this"??? AplineK I am sorry but you are pathetic...ohohoh tell me how I should do it!!! Ha Ha ha

Kevin: With two young ones, I take it the Skillet is a two day climb? And do can you rent a canoe?

AlpineK: "You can't use my copy, but I bet Carlos has one." This isn't bringing it up? Whose the asshole?