Rodchester

Recent update ___________________________________ July 1st, Basecamp to 6400 meters and back.... We just returned to base camp after spending three days climbing on K2. On June 28th we climbed to our stash at 5900 meters and bivied there. The following day we continued up the face in marginal weather to 6400 meters. The snow conditions were fairly good. We pitched our tent on a small ledge and settled in for the night. The next day was snowy and windy with occasional periods of sunshine. We climbed a bit above camp to scout out our proposed route, which looks challenging but relatively safe and fun. We spent another night at 6400 meters and returned to base camp the next morning, July 1st. We plan to spend a few days at base camp resting and getting organized for our next objective, a climb of Broad Peak. Weather permitting, we anticipate commencing our climb within a week. We hope to climb Broad Peak in a single push. This should give us adequate acclimatization for our proposed climb of K2. _______________________________________

June 26th, K2 basecamp: Christine and Charlie here! Last Sunday June 23rd, we climbed to 5900 meters and established our camp 1 on the south face of K2. Unfortunately the weather deteriorated and we decended late in the evening back to base camp. The weather has been unstable since then. We had our Puja on Monday. Lhama Jangbu performed the ceremony. Lhama Jangbu was a team member on our recent Everest expedition. He is now climbing with a Spanish team on K2. Last night it snowed a foot. We woke to find our mess tent collapsed from the weight of the snow. The weather seems to be improving. We are enjoying base camp life though by playing cards, reading and taking short hikes around base camp. Tomorrow we plan to hike to Broad Peak base camp and stash gear at the base of the mountain in anticipation of our acclimatization climb. Now it is just a waiting game...

That really sucks. The peak is very well known for avalanches and has active glaciers high on the peak. Though as a side note, I find it intersting that they call Ynuguy a "city"...village might be a more applicable term.

I'm not normally a chopper...but if these bolts are not required and were put up on a route that is normally protected by other means they should be chopped with care not to damage the rock any further.

Cold Weather, long trips, or need to melt snow for water: I use a MSR liquid fuel stove (usually a XGK II). Warm weather, short trips, no need to melt snow for water: I use a MSR Pocket Rocket. (Have also used a Giga and a old Bluet) I do agree that the half canister thing really blows and they are expensive. But for some tripes they really rock. So if I could only own one, I would choose the MSR liquid fuel stove. [ 06-26-2002, 12:04 PM: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

I like to use the small single walls for light/fast climbs...i.e. traversing the Winds River Range...and for one or two day climbs in the Cascades. They are light and compact. I have to say that if I was sitting in a camp for any length of time, say in Patagonia, Alaska, etc. I would prefer going with the roomy double wall...and dealing with the weight. I would go nuts in my Bibler for two months....or even two weeks. Each have applications and limitations. [ 06-26-2002, 11:36 AM: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

Resume: Something we don't want Dennis Harmon to do.

Dennis Harman: "I argree whole-heartedly, but it ain't gonna happen because you're dealing with an entire generation of people who see climbing as nothing more than a means with which to further their resumes. These people do not have any real appreciation, or respect, for the mountains. They are just going to continue going up there and dying, in droves, and make us all look like ass-holes." Dennis you really need to take those pills AlpineK was talking about. An "entire generation"? Which generation is that? And really what the hell do you mean by "climbing as nothing more than a means with which to further their resumes"? On thier resume? Are you serious? Do you actually think people go out and climb so they can list it on thier resume? You have to be kidding. And just who the hell are "These people" and why do you think they "do not have any real appreciation, or respect, for the mountains"? Your statement is so generalized and baseless it reeks of arragance. Stop making such simple-simon assumptions about these inujred climbers. Put your SCUBA tanks on and go play in your bathtub. I'll reserve comment on the injured and thier actions until a complete report is made. [ 06-26-2002, 08:32 AM: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

High top flip flops...think about it.

June 21, 2002 Update _____________________________ Yesterday we climbed a line to the right of the original polish route on the south face of K2. We left a tent, food, fuel and gear at 5700 meters. The snow conditions were faily good and allowed rapid progress. Today we are resting at base camp with beautiful sunny skies. Tomorrow we plan to climb to about 5900 meters and bivy. The following day we plan to climb to 6400 meters and bivy again. From here we hope to do a recon of the route above before returning to base camp. We are having a great time with everyone at base camp. We are acclimating well and feel strong. Looking forward to the climb ahead! We send our best to the folks at home! Christine and Charlie _______________________________

As long as you are going light, low cut shoes can be fine. I wear 5.10s and the wife has and loves Lowa. But when you begin to put weight in the rucksack, stay out for extended periods, or travel over rough terrain, I find a pair of midweight/duty boots are better. Getting the right balance between weight/comfort/support is the key and a hard one to find.

Damn...you gotta admit that took some balls, to actually ask someone for help/beta that you have basically blacklisted. I love it. I serioulsy am just laughing my ass off.

So I took a co-worker's husband out this weekend for his first "glacier" climb up Baker. Just doing the Coleman-Demming route. We get to the trial head, he forgot his sleeping pad. (strike one) Hmmmm...ok we sleep in the parking lot and do a car-to-car push. We leave the trailhead at 10:00. Stream crossing he loses a trekking poles and over the water fall it goes...bye bye pole. (strike two). Right as we were getting to the treeline he postholes, hyperextends his knee and strike three we are going down. Sometimes it just wasn't meant to be. I made it home at 3:30 a.m had one beer and fell asleep. [ 06-24-2002, 09:33 AM: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

Dennis: Where did you get that rock of crack?

This from two friends taking a shot at K-2. Thought other s might be interested. They are presently doing a "recon" of potential routes. ________________________ We arrived at K2 basecamp yesterday, after a nice trek up the Baltoro Glacier. We have found the local Balti people to be very friendly and helpful - no hassles so far. We did a recon to the base of the SSE spur this morning (June 20), and have decided to attempt a route up the south face, following the Polish line or perhaps another variation nearby. Tomorrow we will climb to approximately 5800 meters on the Polish route, to assess conditions and to acclimate. We are both feeling great and highly motivated! The weather has been unsettled for the last several days, but overall it seems to be ok and now improving. ____________________________

Cool!! a couple of friends of mine are trekking inot the Karakorum as I type. They are going to take a shot at climbing K2. They have a friend there, I think Islamabad, named Nazir Sabir. he did Everest with them a couple of years ago. He is well know amoing the Paki climbing community. Do you know him? I hope you guys don't "start" lobbing nukes any time soon...or ever. Welcome to the site. Some people "spray" too much, but for the most part it is good natured fun and there are a lot of really good people here. If you make it to the USA look us up. [ 06-20-2002, 02:04 PM: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

DRU (and others) 1) "Paki" is a racial slur. Well onl;y in certain parts of Canada, not in the US or in Pakistan. I work with a Pakistani here in my office everyday and according to him and other Pakistanis I have met, it is not a racial slur (again except in Canada). But in all honesty, I shouldn't use it here since sooo many Canucks are on this site. So I do apologize to those Canadians that felt it was a racial slur. It wwasn't meant that way. Thanks for pointing it out Dru. 2) "hope you don't STOP lobbing nukes??" Now god damn I suck...I meant "start" not STOP!!! Sorry all, tail between my legs.

Anyone know how much, if any, snow is on the summit pyrimad? Thinking about doing one of the rdges with a buddy.

I use ski gogles in very cold and windy weather, usually winter. I have never had problems with the eyes. It is my understanding that the darkness of the lenses and the filtering of UV A B & C rays are not always related. (Maybe some eye guys out there say diffent?) The majority of the times on glacier and snow I use presecription glacier glasses. I used the classic round glacier Julbvos for years and have no complaints. Cost 40.00 bucks for the frames and them paid 50.00 bucks for the lenses. Most will charge around $100.00 for the lenses. I now use a pair of similar style CEBEs that are a little smaller and more comfortable. I love them. Cost me about $50.00 to have the lenses put in (I know the guy). I have seen some guys that charge a small fortune, skip them and go to a regular eye guy....doing the lenses is not rocket science. You want to use plastic lenses, because glass can shatter and weighs too much. You want to have them put a scratch resistant coating on the lenses...becuase plastic does tend to scratch (main problem with plastic). You can go with just about any combo on the UV filer and darkness/tint. Go with at LEAST 90% on the UV A B & C filtering. I have 95% with a medium to darker tint. If you make it too dark you cannot use them in the transistional times (dusk, dawn, cloudy days where UVs still pierce the clouds, etc.). I have used this system many times between sea level and over 20,000 ft. with no problems. I do not wear them water ice climbing, or I should say rarely. I prefer contacts ther because I am fat and have no talent and often steam up my glasses when on steep stuff. I have used them on easier alpine rock with no problems. There is my 50 cents...sorry if I didn't help. Let us know what you go with, and why. [ 06-19-2002, 03:05 PM: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

I say go with 60s. The point on the rope drag makes no sense what so ever, at least to my silly mind. If you have 60 and decide to only use 50 on a particlar route because of rope drag then just use 50, have the extra 10 in case you need it. The route causes the rope drag, not the length of the rope. Having the extra 10 increases options, not rope drag. Sure, it increases the weight somewhat and the inital cost (usually anyway). Put simply, if you have a 60 and need a 50 you can do the route. If you have 50 and need a 60 your screwed. If you have a 60 you can do many routes in les pitches. If you have a 50 you can't. The only real negative is the weight...and I guess to a certain degree bulk. My two pennies, and now I'll shut up.

I have found the Teton climbing Rangers to be the best informed, coolest, and most service oriented rangers around. While the MRNP guys have gotten WAY better in recent years, I seriously feel the Teton guys are heads above them. When you ask a climbing question (at Teton)...say about a route...you actually get an answer from an informed and experienced individual.

Adams Info Try this good luck.

REI Gore-Tex I know the older version was extremely beefy, I always thought they were over constructed and were too bulky. But if you want tough, this is it. [ 06-11-2002, 07:42 AM: Message edited by: Rodchester ]

Kitty? Dru do you mean Kitty cat