max

Willstrickland: nice analysis. I would say that there are a number of dorks here that seem to express insecurities in the form of sexist (note I'm not talking about sexual) comments. Alicia: I did a trip this spring by myself, half without a car, and i did al much climbingas I cared to. If you go to red rocks, Jtree, yose, any of the destination areas, and are bold asking around for partners, you'll climbas much as you want. And being semi-solo has some major benifits. It's nice not having to make decisions as a group, you can keep a lower profile when ness., and your long-term schedule need only be one day! Have fun.

As far as dedication, amount of training, aerobic fitness, focus, strategy, size of thier filed of competitors, training regiments, .. probably many other measures, the top ten percent of the bike dudes kick ass over the top ten percent of climbers. In fact, I bet you could even throw in absolute strength and the bike guys might not beat the climbers, but theid sure make a strong showing. Now climbers, they sure can talk shit and smoke dope well! I'd still rather climb, though. Bikes are for wuss's. Good point, caveman. I'd agree that generally climbers and bikers are motivated by different goals. I think biking is more about winning and competing against others and climbing is more about doing and self-motivating. The downhiill thing last night was crazy! Those two guys that nearly spilled one right after another blew my mind! [ 02-14-2002: Message edited by: max ]

quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: The way I learned it, proper technique for belaying the leader hinged upon mastering one-handed rolling. But I since the grigri I fear it is a lost art. Mitch, you're wierd. YOu should post more often!

Shoot! That was going to be my guess. You mean it isn't Whatsit Peak? dang!

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Anderson River tends to have some aggressive trees in cracks and on ledges Right! right right... I just saved that pic and noticed the cheaters way at this game.... ..../nesakice.jpg Maybe I should have guessed somewhere in northeast south alaska.

quote: Originally posted by mattp: Max suggests that jumping off the rock... I meant for the BELAYER to make a small hop, not the climber. But I don't mind if sport climbers atart jumping of tall rocks!

quote: Originally posted by max: No, I see some trees. poilitical/eco-freak comment. did I miss something dru?

quote: Originally posted by mattp: I'm a little unclear on this idea that you might want to add what sounds to me like extra slack in the system in the event of a fall (the suggestions that you catch the leader gently, or jump up to accomplish the same thing, or whatnot). I the "jumping" technique and leaving slack technique are not the same thing. While they both increase the distance fallen, only the former also increases the decellerating distance, thus decreases the maximum force (same net work over greater distance, hence lower average force) I think most people are saying "Nay" to the slack idea (at least in terms of slack to improve the fall characteristics) and there seems to be no super-majority on the dynamic belay/jump technique. My thoughts: belaying a long-ish fall: no jumping. You're already set for a ride. Short "sporty-type" falls: yeah, jumping or maybe just hopping might make it more comfy for your leader and maybe easier on your rope, but it seems like a technique you grow into, not pick up straight away. Finally, this is all a bunch of mountaineer-type talk. Lets cut this shit and start talking more about beer and wild parties.

quote: Originally posted by headmasterjon: Anderson River Group, B.C.? No, I see some trees.

Jay! I've talken several good wingers at Peshastin. I think the best advise is the "(gentle) step backwards" Even the most feature-less climbs there are still pretty steep, and just a little time away from the rock will get you to near the end of your rope. Also, having good posture will both reduce the likelyhood of falling and put you in a good position to minimize scraping and get you ready for "landing" Getting low = getting grated. As for this turn-around-and-run garbage: there might be someone out there who's had luck with this techhnique, but I can't imagine this as a good idea. First, if you're really falling because you can't hold on any longer, there's no time to collect yourself enough for this. If you do have time, you're not thinking about climbing, you're thinking about falling. Peshastin is all about focus and determination. There's no time to plan out such a manuver. In addition to this, facing down is a terrible way to begin the deceleration phase of a fall. Even with a nice skinny dynamic rope, being in that position is going to result in a violent twisting motion originating from the lower back. Not good. Further, I think all this moving around is only going to increase the chance of getting your legs tangeld up in the rope. Screw the raspberrys, a backwards face plant after even five feet's going to screw you up bad. I'm sure you've heard about the falling cat position (no, not one of THOSE positions). It just like any sport's "ready position." So as far as turning around and running, I call bullshit. Finally, I'm sure you've noticed the fine grained, loosely bonded nature of Peshastin rock. Compared to granite slabs, espescially those in S. California and Arizona, Peshastin sandstone is pretty non-abrasive. I guess that fact isn't really very comforting! Good luck in WA! dave

Dude!, Like totally Rad lamb-Man! It sounds like you've been taking some low-down jargon talk school lessions from some totally rad! Cali types! huhu, like, stay cool, man!

quote: Originally posted by allison: ... we never use them for hanging scenery, and we never, ever, ever use them if ... Is never, ever, ever any less often than never?

winter sucks sucks sucks sucks sucks sucks sucks sucks sucks sucks sucks sucks it still sucks

Back to the original topic... It sounds dorky, but I think breathing excercises are a good way to avoid psyching yourself out. Here's the basis of the philosophy: I can think about only one thing at a time. I can perform physical tasks and think about something, but only one thing. As an example, I can walk down the street and think about my stats homework. But I can't simultainiously think about stats and climbing. So if I can replace the thoughts centering around fear with potentially helpful thoughts... better. So when I was climbing at the gym on top rope and working on something super hard, I'd focus on directed, smooth, deep breaths. PLEASE< don't be a huffer at the crags 'cause that drives me (and I'm sure others) nuts. Quite, deep FOCUSED breathing is a great thing to think about while working something hard. And, presupposing you've got the milage as others have recommended, the physical part of climbing will be taken care of by a different part of the brain, like the wlaking part in my example. I've had great sucsess with this technique. At first it doesn't seem to help, but the better you get at FOCUSING on the breathing and redirecting your conscience, the more it helps. I believe the ridiculed euro-chalk-blow is actually another great example of this. Dip a shit-lot of chalk, think about and feel the chalk on your finger tips, visualize the chalk as negative energy (I've picked up this sort of mumbo-jumbo living in Boulder ), then blow it away. Feel clean, stress-free fingers and go. (all you "I hate chalk" types: I don't use chalk and I'm not promoting this as a mind technique. It's only an example of FOCUSING) Thanks for starting this thread 'cause the mind game strategy of climbing is one of the best parts!

quote: Originally posted by fishstick: Interesting findings from a Canadian group a couple of weeks ago. Hey, do you have a reference for this? thanks.dave

OH. Right. For some reason I can't read. ---I'm retarded---

quote: Originally posted by Lowell Skoog: ...you can fix your objective, or you can fixyour time window, but you cannot fix both. I like this.

What I think is intersting is that the article headline is "climber's fall linked to bolf" but nowhere in the article does it say anything about bolts failing. Seems like a un-substantiated headline.

quote: Originally posted by johnny: Using something dry like bike chain lube... I just did this with my tcu's (wet flows + lack of screws = rusty cams) and used graphite powder post-cleaning. It was a mess, so do it outside and blow off the excess graphite. Powdered graphic is available at most hardware stores or locksmiths. A bike geek friend says "White Lightning" is the best "dry" oil lubricants. I'd guess the oil lubes would prevent future rusting better than graphic. [ 02-03-2002: Message edited by: max ]

6.2x10^-23 sec. I dedicated every single molecule in my finger to this test.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: fixing a rope to seed a pillar has been tried and does not work. in fact one time at johnston canyon, it ripped the anchor out that the rope was attached to! I'm pretty sure this is the technique (sucsessfully) used on the Fang and Rigid Designator near Vail. I think steel chain and some big-ass trees are used. http://images.climbingboulder.com/ice/3/the_fang.jpg [ 01-31-2002: Message edited by: max ]

It seems like I've had the "best day ever" happen to me several times. I've been finishing a day that seemed so regular...no huge climbs, no super hard pitches, maybe not even that long of a day. But as I'm walking back to the car I think to myself "This is probably the best day of climbing ever! I love climbing" Maybe I'm just easy to please. Maybe I've got bad memory.

I use my regular leather boots for "tour" type stuff where I'm not looking to tear it up. Thier relatively light and comfy. Then I use my regular alpine ski boots when I'm looking for turns. They tour just fine, definately no better than AT boots, and they were super cheap. I think I got them at the ski swap for 40 bucks.

I suppose this is openingnup a can of worms that's already been re-heated, but... I can't say anything about the snowmobile scene 'cause I haven't hung out with that crowd. But in the skier areana.. what a bunch of snobs! I'd agree that smoke and oil suck, but they definitely don't warrant the gibberish I hear out of some skiers. I think they're actually looking for something to complain about. I think it boils down to the skiers being a little high and mighty, I'm cooler than you 'cause "I earn my turns!" what ever. Maybe I just got more riled up over snobby skiers than the snobby skiers get riled over sledders.

quote: Originally posted by rat: max,i agree with your take on the entiat boulders but they were convenient when i used to work there for the usfs.... rat: send me a pm.... dave