dberdinka

During long days of rock climbing, an activity that is neither completely aerobic nor completely strenuous, I tend to eat very little food. I've always assumed that my body will burn fat if it needs more energy, however I was told this morning that it will actually burn protein (i.e. muscle) first! Thats no good!! I got plenty of fat to spare and very little muscle. Any wisdom out there?

Our very own DRU posted an article at bivouac.com on a canyon descent he did along the North Shore of Vancouver that sounded excellent. Rappelling waterfalls, deep narrows, the whole bit. A web search should turn up a few sites that have canyoneering descents from the Rainier and Mount Adams area. While not as spectacular as what you find in the SW they looked pretty cool. Wet Suits looked like a must. I think we'll see a lot more canyoneering occuring in the NW in the near future. It's out there, it's just going to take the right mindset to find it.

Nice Shot!

Michelle friggin nails it...........

Nice job! Sounds like you put a mediocre weekend to good use.

There's got to be a better way than my nut tool. What are the best tools for the job? I think someone once told me a big spackling knife was the thing to use, chop through the edges of the muck then rip it out. Any thoughts?

That looks sweet! Based on the background I (wildly) guess Cathedral.

It's been a while since we had a good Caveman rant! Roll with it....

OK, really, I'm not out to stir the pot. But there was some..uhh..pointed discussions quite a while back about a new line put up on the east face of South Early. I think at one point I heard 5.13 then somebody told me 10-. Regardless, last summer I'm pretty sure the line was an obvious series of scrubbed streaks maybe 100 yards over from the East Buttress. It looked nice! Any details to be shared?

Exfoliation in action! That's scary stuff, the west buttress seemed like some very bomber rock. Can't wait to see the scar. Which pitch disintegrated?

Please do share?

Very disturbing story, considering that he sounds like a very experienced climber and how common it is to be rope soloing on the lower town wall. I hope he has a full and speedy recovery. I also hope we can hear the full details from an authoritive source. Would like to avoid doing something similar in the future.

Climbing in rock shoes is definitely more fun than climbing in boots. However this route lends itself easily to boots. Rock is very blocky, with only a few low-5th sections, and there are many streches of sandy and/or grass covered ledges that might be more dangerous in rock shoes. Whatever you do, go prepared for very exposed, steep hard snow. That section is the crux of the climb. Looked like it could be bypassed by filthy 5.8ish tower, but that's just a random conjecture.

Szyjakowski, you are an idiot. A have no intention to nor did I ever claim that I wanted to go bolt up SCW. I only stated that the rap route already exists! These stations are not well hidden. If you've been up Outer Space in the last several years they should have been obvious. Why are you all getting your panties in a bunch now?

Yes, directly below the nice ledge there at the base of the crack. I think it's set up with integrated rappel rings and is very much in the middle of nowhere. Definite rap station.

Exactly what is bogus. That it exists? Or that I like it! Those anchors have been there for at least 3 or more years. No ones complained yet.

Probably. However there are sections of steep glacial snow/ice that must be crossed. Be prepared for 50 degree terrain above big cliffs.

So much hostility! I'm of the belief that the rap route already exists. There are chains on top, I believe near the top of Edge of Space. Then bolt stations all the way down to the one about 30' below the splitter on OS. That should be just about directly above the lower pitches of Iconoclast which are easily rapped. That trail gets old, might not be a bad option.

I'll go

North Ridge of Cutthroat Peak is a very rarely traveled climb on generally excellent granite. It is a far better climb than the filthy and uninteresting South buttress. If the ridge crest is followed exactly you'll get to climb low angle dihedrals, OWs and finger cracks. Fun, fun, fun. Only drawback is a couple pitches of choss getting onto the ridge proper. But hey, it's the mountains so deal. The structure of the ridge and the climbing is somewhat reminisent of the west ridge of Pigeon Spire in the Bugs. Before I get slayed I said SOMEWHAT! Standard route on Chabilis Spire is an excellent 3 pitch climb on solid white granite. Killer summit too. SW ridge of S Early is in Nelson's second book but isn't nearly as crowded as other climbs in the area. Definitely the best moderate climb in the group. East Face of the Minute Man is an awesome adventure. Goes at 5.8 with a few points of aid. Probably could be done 5.8 A0. 2nd to last pitch is best (well 2nd best) hand crack in the area. NE ridge of Black is a blast too. Go late in season when the lakes are real pretty.

Where in the hell did you get that!!!!?????

Hi geordie. This years intern would be a great place to start. After that... I've had good luck do early season stuff on the east side. North Face of Maude or Entiat Icefall is a nice climb to do before summer. Redoubt would be awesome as well. I imagine the glacier on the NE side will break up huge this year so going early makes a lot of sense. Lots of ski touring oppurtunites in the area as well. Dru posted earlier about the Maselpik (I just buchered the name) logging roads on the north side of Rahm being re-opened. An awesome traverse would be up Depot Creek, over Silver lake, up Rahm and down the North Glacier.

I have a big head. No! I mean literally! My Petzel Ecrin Rok sits to high and always slides sideways. There is not a photo in existence of me with it on where I don't look like a friggin retar...forget it. It seems like most manufactures out there make two sizes s/M and m/L. That doesn't seem to cut it! Have any of you other big-headed manly-men found a helmet that fits? Thanks!

Crabby Appleton, Edge of Sun and Community Pillar are all awesome routes on the south side of Pine Creek Canyon. Community Pillar is cult classic! Entire thing is chimney, tunnel and Ohh-dubya! I had to take my harness off and hang it from my foot to get past the first chockstone. Go do it. Crabby and Edge of Sun make for good full day with no one around. Last pitches of both are ****. I'm jealous I want to be in Red Rocks.