dberdinka

Aren't the only bolts the now-hanging-in-space anchor?

Is that my detailed topo? Uhhh......Wrong Graemlins. What in the hell are those things supposed to be doing???

You've got a very good point. The solitude out there is wondeful. With a guidebook coming out in the near? future I wonder how much it will change. How was getting past the now-missing flake 2 or so pitches up?

On Sunday MattP and I went up to Blueberry Hill on the south side of Exfoliation Dome and pretended to be mini-tree loggers 1000 feet off the ground. It was fun to toss bushes and dirt off the cliff and watch them slowly disintegrate on the slabs far below. Then the lightning and wind came and we got real wet for a little while until the sun came out and dried up all the rain. The Granite Sidewalk was still soaked so we had a surprisingly pleasant descent through mostly old-growth forest to the north of the sidewalk. This was followed by beer, mosquitos and eventually corndogs. MattP, Chris Greyell, David Whitelaw and others have invested much time and energy putting in some very fine free climbs on X-Dome. Someday it will be a very popular place. See his website for partial details. http://www.seanet.com/~mattp/Darr

I like these two, they concisely express some of the deeper pyschological reasons for climbing. Any others? "If the conquest of a great peak brings moments of exultation and bliss, which in the monotonous, materialistic existence of modern times nothing else can approach, it also presents great dangers. It is not the goal of "grand alpinisme" to face peril, but it is one of the tests one must undergo to deserve the joy of rising for an instant above the state of crawling grubs. " Lionel Terray (following the ascent of Mount Huntington in Alaska in 1965.) "The wall, the climbs, inanimate objects, so often personified, are never really conquered. Man can only conquer his weakness, exceed his self estimates, and fail to yield as his very soul begs that he retires." -Don Davison (1974)

How many other times have you felt this way? before a big solo or some other project? Yet ended up having a incredible time? Probably a lot! Why should this time be any different? Hell, If that doesn't do throw some jugs in the pack. Get after it up there are Urquart. I wan't a detailed topo when it's all over.

Skipped work and went to Darrington on Wednesday. Climbed 10 great pitches of face, crack and even some friction on the Combs. As usual saw no one. Why does no one ever go to Darrington?

If you're still looking for a partner Wednesday check PMs

Heres a link to a write-up I did on the Entiat Icefall. I soloed it, but I guess thats a personal choice. The low 5th rock was more intimidating than the snow and ice. I recall the summit register having an entry by a guy who enchained the three peaks in a day. I don't recall what route he used. Have fun! http://www.ac.wwu.edu/~berdind/alpine/maude/frame.html

Come on! Help a cracker out! Rock Exotica Soloist with BD Vario Chest Harness No longer $50 it's yours for the low, low price of $40. I'll include a free prayer to sweeten the pot. Rock Exotica Solo-Aid No longer $35. Take it home for $30. Comes with one #1 copperhead for your next bitchen aid lead.

On the topic of the new Trangos...how waterproof are they? There fabric/fake-leather constriction looks a ittle shaky for wet conditions. Any first hand experience?

I vote for #6. You look like a homeless, drunk bum. But then again you almost are!

It's been a while but I'm sure there is a small TCU placement just after you bust the hard move off the ramp that will protect the second as they do the same. With that said one of my most terrifying memories from my "formative" years of rock climbing is having to follow that pitch without any pro off the ramp. That's a big swing your buddy took, I think he should be happy that he broke only one bone in his hand.

Bump. Hello? Anyone?

Anyone want to get out climbing for one more day before the rain comes back? Looking for experienced partner to swing leads on multipitch 5.10 or such tomorrow. D-Town works too. PM me.

Nice job!! (just had to add the ubiquitous toasting graemlin) I sat in my cubicle yesterday. Joy!!!!!

Damn! How'd you get from the top of one mountain to the other?

All suggestions are good. I'd add Angel's Crest - long and varied with, I think, six 5.10a pitches and a short bolted 5.10b crux. Sun Blessed - You can skip the last pitch and do a 5.10a variation pitch that heads left at the top of pitch 2.

If you don't like the runouts don't climb it! With the diversity climbing areas and routes in the PNW you should have no problems finding climbs that match your risk-threshhold . Furthermore it sounds like you were off route. I recall all the bolts on OnLine being 3/8" and in good condition. Prepare to be flamed!

I finally found my answer..... http://news.man.ac.uk/1054290245/index_html

I think the obvious conclusion is that six isn't enough! There is just a huge variety of choices exhibiting all sorts of characteristics. It's far easier and more fun to answer something like what are the 6 most appealing... ..snow and ice north faces ..almost purely rock north faces ..mixed north faces ..winter north faces i.e. snow and ice might be something like Baker Coleman Headwall Fury NE Face Buckner N Face Shuksan N Face Maude N Face Rainier Liberty Ridge So I guess we can all sit here and make endless varieties of lists. Joy!

Definitely lots of options here but...the following are all big, beautiful and have classic routes on them. Fury N Face Bear N Face Slesse NE Side Goode NE to NW side Redoubt NE Face Shuksan NW Face Somehow the N side of Stuart and the N Face of Dragontail should be in this list too but those are the first six to come to mind.

Just agreeing with Josh. I climbed the Entiat Icefall several years ago now and it is still one of my best climbing-trip-memories. I did the extra looooong approach but that ended up being all part of the attraction. NF looks like a snow slog IMHO. Went in late June of a relatively low snow year and conditions were just about perfect. http://www.ac.wwu.edu/~berdind/alpine/maude/frame.html

I'll be there. Though if you're looking for sleaze we better head to the Royal...

Aid and rope-solo gear for Sale: 4 6-Step Black Diamond Aiders (2 purple, 2 grey) $50 Rock Exotica Soloist with BD Vario Chest Harness $50 Rock Exotica Solo-Aid $35 2 On-Sight Daisys $10 PM me if interested.