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dberdinka

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Everything posted by dberdinka

  1. I'm pretty sure it's both. F U Necro
  2. A true statement, but couldn't the same thing be said about driving, smoking and eating at McDonald's? My main purpose is replying to this post is so that I could link up our monkey avatars! I've watched two people die climbing. I've yet to witness anyone burning up in flames on the road, keeling over with a smoke between their lips or choking on a QP. As much as I want to believe that climbing's as safe as anything else....It ain't! Monkey avatars rule!!!!!!! Hi Rad
  3. A month ago I hefted a 60 lb bag of aid gear onto my back and stumbled up to the Upper Town Wall all intent on climbing Steal Pole Bathtub. I scrambled up to a ledge maybe 30' off the ground and stood there looking at the start of the climb, a 15' tall left-facing, left-leaning corner system ending at a small roof where a diagonal crack continues up and left. The confidence I had felt that morning was quickly replaced with abundant self-doubt. "Boy, the rock looks shitty and I'm kinda tired, that second pitch looks sketch, what am I doing here by myself again? Uhhh...I'm scared" So with tale between my legs I wandered off to climb something more familiar, questioning my decision for the rest of the day. Fast forward to yesterday. A buddy and I hike up to the Upper Town Wall to do a little free climbing. A 2' x 3' x 6' block of rock is laying in the trail just below the wall. More, larger blocks are piled up near by. Scanning the wall, I realize the entire left facing corner (the start of Steal Pole Bathtub) has fallen out in a chunk at least 3 feet thick! The ledge at it's start is covered in knee deep blocks. This all happened prior to this weeks freeze. So I don't see any real mechanism for this other than "it's time had come". I shudder to think what might have happened had I started up that climb, weighing cams behind the now absent corner, or worse yet slamming a few pins in behind it. I would have been squished like a bug! Why didn't I climb it? Through years and years of climbing have I developed an innate sixth sense that guides me from danger, that prevents me from exposing myself to objective hazards I'm not consciously aware off? I DON'T THINK SO! I think I just got frigging lucky. Climbing IS Dangerous, there ain't no two ways about it. We can triple check our knots, dig avi-pits on every aspect, start climbing at 2AM, only climb granite, whatever. There will always be risks we can't predict, quantify or mitigate. The longer we stay at it the more likely rock fall's gonna kill us all.
  4. Thats a lot to gather from a cluster of internet rumors and assumptions jackass.
  5. Am I seeing straight.... http://graphics7.nytimes.com/images/2003/10/20/nyregion/20fery.jpg
  6. Car, boat, bus and trail Sounded so simple at home Now a real headache. The town of Holden Scenic wonder of the hills Built on toxic dirt. Pleasant suffering Crawling through the slide alder Entering the wild. Citadel of rock towering into the clouds bigger than we thought. High on a north face Our minds travel somewhere else Time to go back down. Percaset pillows Seperate mind from body Laughter fills the woods. Camping in the woods Twenty hours which to pass It seems like forever. Lead, zinc and copper Elements of deadly brine Waiting in mine shafts. Happy Luthernans Frolicking in the mountains On a toxic mine.
  7. I don't know what the hell it says...but if they were doing 5.14, or 5.12 for that matter, on A4 gear thats pretty out there. However, hasn't the Black Dyke in Squamish recently been freed at 13b/c or something like that. Bolted up and all but I'm not gonna dis them..
  8. Not really climbing but this is a beautiful time to visit the Excelsior Ridge/Yellow Aster Butte Area. If you really need to climb something you could always do Tomihoy but the real attraction is the amazing fall colors of the heather and blueberry that essentially blankets the area. I don't know anywhere else like it in the N Cascades. A great, long day trip is a hike or trail run starting from the Mount Baker Highway up the trail to Excelsior Pass, along the ridge for 5 miles then down the Welcome Pass Trail and finally 4 miles or so back to your car along the Highway. 15 miles or so and at least 4000' of gain. Come to think of it a great fall climb in the same area is the north face of Goat Peak. Pretty melted out this time of year but the final coulior is still there. Descend along the high ridgeline to Twin Lakes. Beautiful!
  9. Yes! Mr Parker and I climbed it on a nice balmy 50 degree day. I think it fell apart a day or two later...
  10. Even the best TRs on this site are eventually (generally quite quickly) lost among a melie of other posts on..well...just about everything. So here's a proposal. Create a set of forums specifically for TRs. Have a mod delete or move an unrelated post (people will learn quickly). Furthermore set it up so people can only use Graemlins in their responses.. A whole new form of communication, dare I say art?, would evolve on CC.com TR: "My epic ascent of the Toof..I'm so rad"..... TR: "I climbed a nice climb and posted just like Necro likes it" You get the idea. Freedom of expression, a new twist for these sewage strewn threads and less people get offended...
  11. Yikes! Thats some scary history. Was this the guy who slid into the lake and drown? Or am I thinking of something else. Come on, half you fools at least! did triple couliors last year, others of you have to have the Follsom-Heller route on your ticklist to be...
  12. Ummm...if I'm reading this e-mail correctly, he's no longer in the army. He's the deputy undersecretary of defense. Hanging with our buddy Rumsfield and telling the military what to do! Scary!!!
  13. WHAT TOWERS YOU GOT IN MIND? WHEN ARE YOU GOING? AAAK I'M SCREAMING......
  14. So really whats so wrong with some full on chestbeating? Dru suggested it and I'm running with it. I'm gonna hit first try..... Cottontail Tower in the Fish. Hooking up with my ropegun. Direct North Face of Dragontail. These are the WI3 runnels directly below the third coulior. I predict this will be as popular in 03/04 as Triple-Couliors was in 02/03. A solo, winter second-ascent of the Nesakwatch Notch route on North Nesakwatch Spire, aiding directly out of the notch with a bivi on the chockstone. Or maybe I'll just go skiing.... Feel free to call me on my bullshit come April.
  15. I've posted TRs of some of my grander trips this year and received only positive feedback. There's definitely a lot of bullshit negativity on this site but how you're treated definitely depends on your attitude. Maybe I've just played it safe and never created enemies to flame me. Wayne got flamed for the underlying preteniousness (sp?) of his posts. Sorry dude, I think you're a nice guy and all but thats the truth. Well written, interesting trip reports about interesting places done in good style seem to hold up just fine around here. (Of course there are always exceptions....)
  16. So I wander around the cascades and see shit and tell myself "I'm gonna come back and climb that" but I never do. So in the spirit of lovin, learning, sharing and caring (Oh J-Diddy where are you....) here's a short list of all that obscure stuff I've see that I'm never gonna get back too. Anybody else? (Come on get real are you ever going to really go do that route?). Have at, and post a TR..... Redoubt the northeast coulior that would be climbers left and around the corner from the northeast face. An early season mixed climb. Mox Peaks east face rock climb (OBVIOUS! and probably shit) ne face couliors (see photo SW BC backcountry skiing book, looks good!) GreyBeard a route climbers right of the Skoog route that starts in a deep coulior then zigzags to avoid cliff bands Black Peak The Complete NE ridge (the popular version only climbs the upper 25% of it if that). This one I still might actually go do. Goode Complete East Ridge (probably shit rock but a HUGE line) North Buttress (between the becky routes and the beebe (sp?) coulior you could climb rock without ever touching the glacier) Logan Lots of possibilities as evidenced by Wayne and Offwhites (??) adventures. A full traverse from the North Fork of Bridge Creek would be cool, so would the NE? ridge line as seen from the ragged ridge area. Slesse Heart of Darkness! Heart of Darkness! Bigwall route on east face right of the Isaac route that would lead directly to the upper buttress of NE face. It's there. Athetic and Direct. S Nesakwatch All them beautiful dihedrals right of the Spagnut/Neufield lines. Evidently they're grassy? Reagrdless they are the best looking lines on the face. Illusion Peaks SW Slabs on North Peak. Hard to get to but looks sweet. Chinese Puzzle Wall. Was it ever finished? Blueberry Hill direct line above western slabs to ridgetop the face north of the "Smoot Unknowing" route (or did the posse already jump on this one?)
  17. 6.5 hrs car-to-car. My strategy was to do it when I was young and still had good knees. Soloing helped too.
  18. Say this did occur, what impact do you think it would have on the presidential election? Would it assist Bush with increased support as was seen following 9/11? Or would a second attack be viewed as a failing of policy and hurt his popularity? I tend to think the former based on the flag waving frenzy that followed 9/11. Any (deeper) thoughts?
  19. A super tight #2 would be bomber hands, but at midrange the cracks a little wide. A #1 size crack is a little tight. I've got one #1.5 Camalot that BD made a couple years back. It rocks for hand-size! Wish I had bought more when they were out. Anyone else use this?
  20. Evidently I was rubbing one off with the Level III sex offenders across the street.
  21. So post it here, I'm curious.
  22. Ok, being more or less a parttime lurker, I can't keep up with all this shit. You sprayers (and moderators) need to keep a rolling list for the rest of us of who's been banned by the day, the hour or by the minute as today seems to warrant. Banned on 9/23/2003...????
  23. Tell us a story Tim!
  24. Adamants are not in the Southern Selkirks (obviously), only commenting on the book already published.
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