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Everything posted by dberdinka
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Car, boat, bus and trail Sounded so simple at home Now a real headache. The town of Holden Scenic wonder of the hills Built on toxic dirt. Pleasant suffering Crawling through the slide alder Entering the wild. Citadel of rock towering into the clouds bigger than we thought. High on a north face Our minds travel somewhere else Time to go back down. Percaset pillows Seperate mind from body Laughter fills the woods. Camping in the woods Twenty hours which to pass It seems like forever. Lead, zinc and copper Elements of deadly brine Waiting in mine shafts. Happy Luthernans Frolicking in the mountains On a toxic mine.
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I don't know what the hell it says...but if they were doing 5.14, or 5.12 for that matter, on A4 gear thats pretty out there. However, hasn't the Black Dyke in Squamish recently been freed at 13b/c or something like that. Bolted up and all but I'm not gonna dis them..
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Not really climbing but this is a beautiful time to visit the Excelsior Ridge/Yellow Aster Butte Area. If you really need to climb something you could always do Tomihoy but the real attraction is the amazing fall colors of the heather and blueberry that essentially blankets the area. I don't know anywhere else like it in the N Cascades. A great, long day trip is a hike or trail run starting from the Mount Baker Highway up the trail to Excelsior Pass, along the ridge for 5 miles then down the Welcome Pass Trail and finally 4 miles or so back to your car along the Highway. 15 miles or so and at least 4000' of gain. Come to think of it a great fall climb in the same area is the north face of Goat Peak. Pretty melted out this time of year but the final coulior is still there. Descend along the high ridgeline to Twin Lakes. Beautiful!
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Yes! Mr Parker and I climbed it on a nice balmy 50 degree day. I think it fell apart a day or two later...
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Even the best TRs on this site are eventually (generally quite quickly) lost among a melie of other posts on..well...just about everything. So here's a proposal. Create a set of forums specifically for TRs. Have a mod delete or move an unrelated post (people will learn quickly). Furthermore set it up so people can only use Graemlins in their responses.. A whole new form of communication, dare I say art?, would evolve on CC.com TR: "My epic ascent of the Toof..I'm so rad"..... TR: "I climbed a nice climb and posted just like Necro likes it" You get the idea. Freedom of expression, a new twist for these sewage strewn threads and less people get offended...
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Yikes! Thats some scary history. Was this the guy who slid into the lake and drown? Or am I thinking of something else. Come on, half you fools at least! did triple couliors last year, others of you have to have the Follsom-Heller route on your ticklist to be...
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Ummm...if I'm reading this e-mail correctly, he's no longer in the army. He's the deputy undersecretary of defense. Hanging with our buddy Rumsfield and telling the military what to do! Scary!!!
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WHAT TOWERS YOU GOT IN MIND? WHEN ARE YOU GOING? AAAK I'M SCREAMING......
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So really whats so wrong with some full on chestbeating? Dru suggested it and I'm running with it. I'm gonna hit first try..... Cottontail Tower in the Fish. Hooking up with my ropegun. Direct North Face of Dragontail. These are the WI3 runnels directly below the third coulior. I predict this will be as popular in 03/04 as Triple-Couliors was in 02/03. A solo, winter second-ascent of the Nesakwatch Notch route on North Nesakwatch Spire, aiding directly out of the notch with a bivi on the chockstone. Or maybe I'll just go skiing.... Feel free to call me on my bullshit come April.
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I've posted TRs of some of my grander trips this year and received only positive feedback. There's definitely a lot of bullshit negativity on this site but how you're treated definitely depends on your attitude. Maybe I've just played it safe and never created enemies to flame me. Wayne got flamed for the underlying preteniousness (sp?) of his posts. Sorry dude, I think you're a nice guy and all but thats the truth. Well written, interesting trip reports about interesting places done in good style seem to hold up just fine around here. (Of course there are always exceptions....)
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So I wander around the cascades and see shit and tell myself "I'm gonna come back and climb that" but I never do. So in the spirit of lovin, learning, sharing and caring (Oh J-Diddy where are you....) here's a short list of all that obscure stuff I've see that I'm never gonna get back too. Anybody else? (Come on get real are you ever going to really go do that route?). Have at, and post a TR..... Redoubt the northeast coulior that would be climbers left and around the corner from the northeast face. An early season mixed climb. Mox Peaks east face rock climb (OBVIOUS! and probably shit) ne face couliors (see photo SW BC backcountry skiing book, looks good!) GreyBeard a route climbers right of the Skoog route that starts in a deep coulior then zigzags to avoid cliff bands Black Peak The Complete NE ridge (the popular version only climbs the upper 25% of it if that). This one I still might actually go do. Goode Complete East Ridge (probably shit rock but a HUGE line) North Buttress (between the becky routes and the beebe (sp?) coulior you could climb rock without ever touching the glacier) Logan Lots of possibilities as evidenced by Wayne and Offwhites (??) adventures. A full traverse from the North Fork of Bridge Creek would be cool, so would the NE? ridge line as seen from the ragged ridge area. Slesse Heart of Darkness! Heart of Darkness! Bigwall route on east face right of the Isaac route that would lead directly to the upper buttress of NE face. It's there. Athetic and Direct. S Nesakwatch All them beautiful dihedrals right of the Spagnut/Neufield lines. Evidently they're grassy? Reagrdless they are the best looking lines on the face. Illusion Peaks SW Slabs on North Peak. Hard to get to but looks sweet. Chinese Puzzle Wall. Was it ever finished? Blueberry Hill direct line above western slabs to ridgetop the face north of the "Smoot Unknowing" route (or did the posse already jump on this one?)
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Record times (slow and fast) for W Ridge Forbidden
dberdinka replied to goatboy's topic in North Cascades
6.5 hrs car-to-car. My strategy was to do it when I was young and still had good knees. Soloing helped too. -
Say this did occur, what impact do you think it would have on the presidential election? Would it assist Bush with increased support as was seen following 9/11? Or would a second attack be viewed as a failing of policy and hurt his popularity? I tend to think the former based on the flag waving frenzy that followed 9/11. Any (deeper) thoughts?
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A super tight #2 would be bomber hands, but at midrange the cracks a little wide. A #1 size crack is a little tight. I've got one #1.5 Camalot that BD made a couple years back. It rocks for hand-size! Wish I had bought more when they were out. Anyone else use this?
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Evidently I was rubbing one off with the Level III sex offenders across the street.
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So post it here, I'm curious.
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Ok, being more or less a parttime lurker, I can't keep up with all this shit. You sprayers (and moderators) need to keep a rolling list for the rest of us of who's been banned by the day, the hour or by the minute as today seems to warrant. Banned on 9/23/2003...????
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Tell us a story Tim!
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Adamants are not in the Southern Selkirks (obviously), only commenting on the book already published.
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Hmmm, lets see, moderately sized, completely obscure, chossy mountains a days drive from anywhere else all which require multiple days of suffering or an expensive ass heli-ride to get to. The one exception being Sir Donald which seems to only get climbed while on the way to somewhere else (ie Rockies and Bugaboos). And it didn't sell?! Gee Golly! Whos fault could it be.
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#1 Soloing Moonlight Buttress in 11hrs 20min #2-tie The Titan and Echo Tower in the Fishers. #2-tie Polar Circus back in March. Looking forward to winter.............................
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More thoughts. Of the major areas this leaves Index which is primarily owned by the state park system. Are they interested in getting involved in the management of the resource? For budgetary reasons alone I doubt it. Again, Eldo has an entrance fee that I assume indirectly helps support the enforcement of the oversite committees decisions. Would you be willing to pay an entrance fee to Index if thats what it took to manage the area? Again, I think everyone would be screaming.
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It seems important to point out that Eldorado Canyon is a State Park where government employees/officials are actively involved in the enforcement of bolting regulations. I can only assume that this particular government agency is climber friendly whether you agree or disagree with their "minimal new bolts" ethic. I would think this fact goes a long way towards the success of the oversite committee for that area. (Compare it to Boulder Canyon in the same region) In the PNW it seems a vast majority of our cragging takes place on forest service land (well Darrington and Leavenworth at least). I can't imagine a scenario where they would be interested in regulating the development of new routes outside of banning them completely. This leaves you with some sort of unoffical oversite committee that operates on peer pressure to enforce it's decisions. Good luck!