dberdinka

I guess Ice Cliff, though the North Ridge doesn't look quite right!

To late. I'm sure we'll all be heading out come May to do a logging slash/bushwack approach to a 25+ pitch grade VI.

Agreed with Jordop that it's Urquart. Can you see the DeJong route in the photo?

There's a recent thread on supertopo.com regarding gear for the climb. You'll also find a 1st hand report and topo at bigwall.com and some good info at climbingmoab.com. (It's on my list too) Last fall I spent a little time there as well. Ancients Arts was super fun. I also climbed Kingfisher and found it much more gripping. Rock was muddier and the fixed gear was a total nightmare. Bent angles and bolts you could pull out by hand. I imagine the Titan is similar!

1973!!!!!! Was that like the second ascent?

I think Chuck has a photo of Chickamin and Chimney Rock just above. Earlier Off-White had a butt shot he said 50 of us had climbed. I'm thinking the crux finger crack on the West Face of North Early.

You're killing us Off White. What in the hell is that?

gregm - almost, not quite though As for Dino Pic -- uhhhhh...Mt Blum?

Maybe one of the more impressive features in the Cascades...

NW Rib of Forbidden i.e. Verbottenhorn

Black Peak or something nearby...Logan in background

South Buttress of Gimli Here's a photo (see attachment). Oh, and the peak does have a name. Not hard to identify, but it's all I got on my computer here at work. Think I need a slide scanner....

Dru #2 = Viennese ???

Anyone here ever climb the East Face of Pigeon? That looks like an amazing line..if it's not running with snow melt.

The McCallister Glacier from....god knows where....

Dragontail from Colchuck?

(I'm assuming Dru would be the one to answer this!) Thumbing throught the new route book at MEC over the weekend I came across Shaun's topo-photos for the Nesakwatch Spires. Surprisingly all his new routes seemed to avoid the obvious clean dihedrals just left of the SW buttress route you (Dru) climbed this summer. Was it just missing a page? (That area was enclosed in a penciled in box) Or did he just avoid the apparently steepest, cleanest part of the wall? Thanks D

I was long a doubter, but Aliens rule! They can be completely bomber in a placement that you couldn't even get a TCU to fit or stick in. I think for the most part it's due to there single stem design, allowing them to be placed it constrictions where a TCUs stem would bind up against the rock. Only downside is that the action seems to get mucked up a little faster than TCUs. Regardless, when I have to get more or replace old gear I will definitely be picking up Aliens.

First off, if this website was visited only by individuals like me (quasi-lurkers) if would lack a lot of the entertainment value it currently has. On the other hand it is slowly sinking under the weight of pointless, indiscriminate posting. This thread being a perfect example! You can argue that it's all just for fun, but read through this thing again. Mattp begins with a very well articulated post trying to start an actual discussion on how this resource should be managed. In return maybe 1 in 15 posts has anything of relevance to say, much less anything witty or intelligent. "Blow me, tool" just doesn't qualify. (Maybe it should have been posted somewhere other than in Spray?) Personally I like the idea that some part of this website could actually be dedicated to the discussion of climbing, rather than a place to fire off one more knee-jerk moronic post. So I'm all for active moderation (i.e. delete ALL the bullshit) of posts in the trip report section. Do it enough and eventually the drivel will end up where it belongs. People can scream censorship, but you can still post whatever you want, you'd just have to do it in the appropriate place.

desert spires = yawn ??!!???? Go climb some Dru. It's a hell of a lot more like alpine climbing then you might imagine!

Necro's actually a pretty nice guy, if a bit on the ugly side...

Hi Tim. We've actually met. I jump-started your car in the parking lot of Index a month ago. Climbing access: Squamish, Darrington, Index are all just over 90 miles from town. Erie is often times good all year long and is 45 to 50 minutes from town. Some people hate it. But the climbing is decent and the views are amazing. Good for a spring afternoon. Bouldering at Larrabee State Park (10 minutes from town) can be a pleasant diversion as well. There are other areas near town but they're all pretty much chossy and forgotten (sorry Jason). Alpine climbing in North Cascades is obviously closer than Seattle. Lots of stuff in BC is close as well (i.e. Slesse's less than 70 miles away) Cost-of-living: Been here to long to compare. Rent is cheap. Buying a house is ridiculously cheap compared to Seattle. Covers at bars are generally non-existent to cheap. Milk is about $3 a gallon. If you've got a decent paying job (most don't) you'll be just fine. Climbing Gyms: There are two in town. The YMCA just installed a riduclously huge wall (70+ feet tall?)and plans on running it as a real climbing gym rather than a daycare. It will cost you though. Definitely a good place to get a pump. Community, Climbing and otherwise: This is the city of subdued excitment. It tends to be kind of quiet around here. Maybe it's just me but any sense of climbing community is fractured to nonexistent. The climbing gyms have certainly never been an epi-center. That said, most people here are very open and friendly, we just all tend to stay home at night. Other perks: Excellent system of trails and parks. Chuckanut Mountains have extensive trail system 10-20 minutes from town. Including a cool cave with an underground lake. Great mountain biking, good beer, good food, blah, blah ,blah. Curious to see what others have to say......

Check out the forecasts at www.nwac.noaa.gov they tend to be more detailed and accurate IMHO. Predicting a 4000' freezing level for Thursday and Friday with continued dry weather. I won't be making any bets but it looks like next weekend might be a good one to get out into the mountains. Cross your fingers...

The 'cheval off Springbok is a bit unique in that it descends significantly. Quite terrifying when you first look at it. I straddled out of fear and nearly cut the jewels off. Dull it is not. So what are the "classic" chevals in the Cascades? Descent off Les Cornes (Springbok) SW Buttress of Dorado Needle SE Arete of South Early What else qualifies?

Dave just got a ***** rating! Projects? projects? ...hmmmmm Go back to the desert. Get scared, climb the Titan.