dberdinka

Sooo.......how do we get it?

I don't think you have much to worry about. Sawtooths are an incredibly beautiful range. I've only done a few alpine rock routes there, but they were beautiful and the potential seems endless. Supposedly there are some good snow and ice routes as well. I'm jealous....

It's sad that this website seems to DISCOURAGE some people from writing TRs rather than ENCOURAGE them. I get bored at work, I want something interesting to read! Short and to the point, purposely vague (Caveman ), poorly written, long and grandiose, full on chestbeating, whatever...I think we should be encouraging each other to talk about actual, real-life climbs we've gone out and done. I plan on writing more of my own and supporting others who do so regardless of the content or style. This place has been kinda dead lately a little more content isn't going to hurt! Yeah! I feel warm and fuzzy!!

Dick Cilley lives! I still remember my formative days in Leavenworth, running around with an equally inept buddy TRing all the 5.3s we could find. More than once you'd walk up offering to sell us nuts, cams whatever out of the back of your van. I bought my first guidebook (stapled together blue-covered Leavenworth Guide) from you. As teenagers without much clue about what climbing was all about, I think you lifestyle mistified us at the time. Way to keep sending! Darin

Noooooo!, crampons and ice axes are bad. We love the mud We want to be nice to the mud Not poke and stick it with sharp objects. Thats mean! The mud is beautiful We hold the mud softly in our hands Don't yank on it Don't squeeze it to hard! Stem gently on the mud, or the mud might fall away I have no clue why the fisher towers erode into mud. Cutler Sandstone is definitely very different from anything else in the desert.

Layton seems to have the bases covered, though I've got to add... Build a torch and go exploring in the Padden Creek Tunnel. 0.6 miles long stretching underneath the Happy Valley neighborhood. I got a couple sets of hip waders look me up.........

Thanks Peter for the efforts and Gary for the software recommendation. Here's a close up of the mud chimney. Woo Hoo!

I re-downloaded better images. Unfortunately I can no longer edit the original post. Hopefully a mod can help me out!

No way! It's sweet! Pray for a big, clear cold snap. Killer ice and styrofoam with good road access.

We fixed the first two pitches (crux) one day then climbed five more another. Jugged and started leading by headlamp, rapped the route just before dark. Erik, let me know what routes you want beta on, I'm familiar with the trade routes. climbingmoab.com is a good source of beta as well. Chuck, JB etc. Writing good TRs is hard, I might work on it if I have time.

Not to change the subject....but sounds like you might have had a good adventure to Jordan? Fill us in!

I began writing an epic TR centered on themes of conquering fear and self-doubt but I figured I'd get reamed for that, so here are some pretty pictures instead! I apologize in advance for the low image quality. Between getting the film scanned and resizing they came out pretty poor. South Face of The Titan in The Fisher Towers of Utah. I don't know of many places as beautiful and peaceful as the Fisher Towers. There is a feeling of the eternal here. In early November my buddy Marcus and I climbed the Sun Devil Chimney on the South Face of The Titan. A beautiful line that offered high advernture, awesome position and some really fine climbing to boot! The route takes a plum line up the sun lit face above Marcus cleaning pitch three Yes thats a pin. Yes the pitch has gone clean at C4. Lets just chalk it up to "situational ethics" Starting up the Mud Chimney pitch The Fisher Towers have a reputation for mud. Well largely undeserved, this pitch offered up a classic mix of Fisher climbing. C2/3 pin scars led up past bent 30-year-old star drives into a genuine Mud Chimney. A thick stucoe of congeiled mud covered everything. Protection was sparse, luckily the chimney is rated 5.7 or so. Of course it's probably one of the most intimidating 5.7's around. Fun stuff! Big exposure on pitch 5 This pitch started out easy enough up a C1 crack. Just above where I took this photo I had to aid up a mud packed crack of indetermitable width by mud threads, double length slings looped around hunks of dried mud spanning the crack. It all seemed ernjoyable once I was on a good cam above them. Looking north from the Summit 3 PM. The sun is beginning to set to the west. It is clear, still and incredibly quiet. A perfect November day on the Colorado Plateau. Life is wonderful.

Aaagghhh!!!!!!! I SUCK!!!!

I disagree that it's Madsen. I stood on that ledge a couple weeks ago (Smoker's Ledge??) it's a plaque to someone I had never heard of who died in his early 20's back in the 70's. A plaque to Madsen exists on that nice ledge above the Saint Vitus Dance area of the Apron. It has the following epitaph.... "Possessed of an unearthly fire, quenched by an early death" Seems somewhat appropriate today.

This post belongs in some sort of cc.com classics list

Necro's a wanker-ass piece-of-shit who really doesn't know WTF he's talking about. I'm guessing his greatest accomplishment is a 4 hour-clean-ascent of City Park. Way to go shit stick! Stick to doing your approaches and bails with your little butt-buddy Layton.

The kearny route? Tell me more....

So what's the deal with technical routes on this pretty bitchin subpeak of Baker? Necro posted a recent photo showing an almost in (???) drivel of ice on it north face above the Coleman Glacier. Is this the Polish Route established by everyones favorite clown puncher? Or is that the rampy stuff a little further to climbers right. Necro, Bob, Layton fill us in.

Faq Booty! If you leave gear behind, that's your loss. One mark of an experienced aid climber is that gear (or at least less of it) doesn't get left behind, dropped, disappeared. Should he give it all back? Thats his choice. If he's interested in retaining Good Karma yes. But when Will left a cam behind 1500' of the deck who shouldn't assume he's going to get it back. As for pins. Zodiac goes at C3F or 5.14a due to the 1000's upon 1000's of pins that have been nailed and/or fixed over the last 30 years. In all honesty If in 50 years the route goes at 13c because a few pinscar-fingerlocks are more generous from more nailing BFD! Should he have nailed less? Certainly, but it hardly detracts from the scale of his accomplishment. His first wall ever! Grade VI solo! That takes some amazing mental persiverance. What really burns me is Wills vicious attack on the guy here on CC.com. If he had a bone to pick why not pick it on RC.com where Ricardo and the whole Yosemite Aid circus posts. Best he could do is slam him there using an avatar. Stick up for yourself Will! post as wstrickland on RC.com if you think you've got a valid grievence. Me thinks PTPP would get off on this thread. Ricardo set us up with a guest poster! Eric vs PTPP

Richard is a hero. Will is a whinney little bitch. Comments like this (as in completely false)... "but to go and start pounding pins in a route that 99% of everyone who does it does it clean is just plain wrong." indicate that the rest of us don't know what we're talking about and should STFU. Richard run far, far away from this website it's not worth your time. Will get a counselor and work out your angst and insecurities in a more positive way.

I'm pretty sure it's both. F U Necro

A true statement, but couldn't the same thing be said about driving, smoking and eating at McDonald's? My main purpose is replying to this post is so that I could link up our monkey avatars! I've watched two people die climbing. I've yet to witness anyone burning up in flames on the road, keeling over with a smoke between their lips or choking on a QP. As much as I want to believe that climbing's as safe as anything else....It ain't! Monkey avatars rule!!!!!!! Hi Rad

A month ago I hefted a 60 lb bag of aid gear onto my back and stumbled up to the Upper Town Wall all intent on climbing Steal Pole Bathtub. I scrambled up to a ledge maybe 30' off the ground and stood there looking at the start of the climb, a 15' tall left-facing, left-leaning corner system ending at a small roof where a diagonal crack continues up and left. The confidence I had felt that morning was quickly replaced with abundant self-doubt. "Boy, the rock looks shitty and I'm kinda tired, that second pitch looks sketch, what am I doing here by myself again? Uhhh...I'm scared" So with tale between my legs I wandered off to climb something more familiar, questioning my decision for the rest of the day. Fast forward to yesterday. A buddy and I hike up to the Upper Town Wall to do a little free climbing. A 2' x 3' x 6' block of rock is laying in the trail just below the wall. More, larger blocks are piled up near by. Scanning the wall, I realize the entire left facing corner (the start of Steal Pole Bathtub) has fallen out in a chunk at least 3 feet thick! The ledge at it's start is covered in knee deep blocks. This all happened prior to this weeks freeze. So I don't see any real mechanism for this other than "it's time had come". I shudder to think what might have happened had I started up that climb, weighing cams behind the now absent corner, or worse yet slamming a few pins in behind it. I would have been squished like a bug! Why didn't I climb it? Through years and years of climbing have I developed an innate sixth sense that guides me from danger, that prevents me from exposing myself to objective hazards I'm not consciously aware off? I DON'T THINK SO! I think I just got frigging lucky. Climbing IS Dangerous, there ain't no two ways about it. We can triple check our knots, dig avi-pits on every aspect, start climbing at 2AM, only climb granite, whatever. There will always be risks we can't predict, quantify or mitigate. The longer we stay at it the more likely rock fall's gonna kill us all.

Thats a lot to gather from a cluster of internet rumors and assumptions jackass.

Am I seeing straight.... http://graphics7.nytimes.com/images/2003/10/20/nyregion/20fery.jpg