dberdinka

Last year we bushwacked in, got lost in thick clouds, climbed the prominent gendarme on the west ridge in the photo above, rappelled of in the pouring rain and bushwacked/slid back down in a torrential downpour. The Mclane book certainly underestimates the time it would take to get in and out of there. I think our biggest mistake was underestimating the distances you have to cover in the alpine area. That face is a long way from the ridge you cross! All in all a beautiful area. I don't remember the bushwacking being that bad! Oh. And the rock was pretty nice.... [ 07-15-2002, 10:06 AM: Message edited by: dberdinka ]

Other great routes include SW Ridge of S Early 7-8 pitch 5.8 on great rock W Face of N Early 4 pitch 5.10+ with a short crux E Face of Lexington great rock, bring a big cam!

The chimney pitch on Prusik is harder, or at least more awkward, than chimney pitches on Epenephrine. It's also much, much shorter and, as previously pointed out, it protects very well. Have fun!

After crossing creek low in valley we headed upstream through slide alder then talus to below fairly large gully/waterfall. Climbed up rib and slabs on the west side of this. Looked imposing but was mostly scrambling with 10' of low 5th. More slide alder and some lower-angle slabs led into steep open terrain above. That was late September of last year, in early season I imagine it could be very different (wetter).

With the forecast looking less than wonderful (the weather forecast) I'm thinking of adventuring off to the hopefully warm and dry side of the coast range. Any first hand experience in Marble Canyon? Worthy of a roadtrip or scary choss pile? Thanks for the beta. Darin [ 07-01-2002, 04:14 PM: Message edited by: dberdinka ]

Of the four times I went up there last summer I always managed to get a permit. If your going for the weekend, head up Friday afternoon and get a permit before the ranger station closes at 7 (??) PM. Midweek probably won't be a problem. Also if you call before leaving they'll tell you how many permits they have left. And if you choose to sneak in, nice hidden camp sites can be found above the high camp or towards the Quien Sabe

Alex Lowe in kindergarten?

Get some sleep!

The infamous Peak 7259'. Coveted by many, climbed by few. Located at the head of Nesakwatch Creek. Central buttress climbed in 1948 by Helmy Beckey while Fred took the entire cheerleading squad to prom. In the late 80's Peter Doorish established 27 other routes with names loosely based on Dante's Inferno.

Peak in the background is Blum Peak, which puts this somewhere to the NE in the Chilliwack area...maybe....Nodoubt Peak?

I've used twin ropes for about 5 years now primarily on alpine rock climbs. My personal opinion is that they work great! I've got a set of Mammut 8mm and don't think I'd want to go any skinnier. They belay fine, I've caught a handful of whippers no problem. The rappel really fast. Maybe a little too fast, but everythings a trade off. I clip them both directly into the same 'biner which in theory is a bad thing. But I'm still alive and I haven't seen any damage to the sheath from doing this. Rope management isn't a whole lot worse but you can end up with quite a pile if you're not careful. One trick that keeps the ropes from getting twisted is, when first roping up have the second tie into only one strand. Once all the rope is fed out, then tie into the second. This keeps the two strands nice and seperate. Have fun!

quote: Originally posted by jkrueger: ...but it seems that there is no longer a consensus of an established ethic and it is simply turning into a free for all? That appears to be the case. I'm still curious as to everyones opinion on this.

quote: Originally posted by erik: is there ever a consensous??? Never on cascadeclimbers.com But if more and more super-bolted (or should I just call them sport?)routes are put up and stay up then consensus by a combination of action/in-action develops. No?

Ok, I know I’m kicking a dead horse here but I’ve got to ask. What did I miss? Has the general consensus in the Icicle become that it is reasonable to place bolts next to natural gear placements? Case in point are the new sport routes that have been developed along the base of Icicle Buttress. While I did not climb any of them, one appears to have 3 bolts spaced out along a 10’ crack and a bolt every 4’ beyond that. This route was mentioned recently on this site but I was surprised to see that it still existed. A lot of common TRs also seem to be sprouting a web of bolts. Everyone likes new routes, particularly ones of quality. Furthermore I think most of us enjoy clipping a nice fat bolt. But I would like to think that over-bolted squeeze jobs, particularly bolted cracks, have no place in the Icicle. Everyone knows where Retrosaurus stands on this issue, how about other active climbers in the Leavenworth area? Crack Bolter you seem to have some opinions here. How about Victor , you obviously have an interest in route development here and have put up some fine bolted routes, even fine retro-bolted routes, over the years ( i.e. Bale-Kramer Route, Mr Tremendous, etc.) I’m not trying to start some heinous flame war. But these new routes are obviously a huge shift from past route development. Is this the future? Is there a new consensus on what is reasonable?

quote: Originally posted by michael_layton: I'm drinkin' some Jim Beam to take the edge of my shitty failed attempt off a route I've wanted to solo for a while that I'd rather not name, and for reasons I won't bother to divulge (because I suck) before I pass out. Mike, you are the Mark Twight of CC.com. Take it easy on yourself brother.

So Dave Page is the old standby, but I can't say I've ever been overwhelmed by their consistency. Anyone out there have any recommendations for a great (mailorder) resoler? Thanks.

Just to add my $0.02. All the 5.10 pitches are very nice, unfortunately the quality of the rest of the route leaves something to be desired. The final pitch "wild crack" is all of 20' long. It's a great climb but definitely not the ***** classic is been made out to be. In the same area Rebel Yell is more exciting/quality route, though obviously not as long.

What good is a juggy dyke?!

quote: Originally posted by mattp: The climbing is spectacular and the views magnificent, but be prepared for run-out slab, wet moss, loose rock, routefinding issues, and missing rappel stations. A good time was had by all. For how long will you mislead the masses?

E Face of Mox Peak is BIG (2000+' ?), obscure, probably chossy and probably unclimbed. Post a TR when you're done.

Hmmmm...Mattp has much good climbing up his sleeve on Blueberry Hill. Go with him there Greg, you will have a good time.

Couple years back the pressure chamber was protected by fixed nuts. Whether they're still there or not the pro was bomber. Psychopath had a fair bit of RPs near the crux but they were bomber as well. I don't think it's been overhyped, it's an awesome climb!

http://www.summitpost.com/cgi-bin/mlist.pl?f_id=10 Enjoy! Good Riddance... [ 05-09-2002, 04:17 PM: Message edited by: dberdinka ]

[ 05-09-2002, 01:35 PM: Message edited by: dberdinka ]

I don't know the details...but someone has been trying to free it. There are shiny new bolts on the lower pitches and at least 1 good bolt at every belay. Looks worth checking out, lots of nice rock on Blueberry Hill....