dberdinka

I clipped the bolt, unclinged the hollow flake, pulled up and over into the crack like thingy, got pumped, got desperate, hung on a shitty piece, than escaped up and right into a dirty mantel. The crack-like thingy is totally misleading. Rapping off I realized there is a whole series of hidden holds maybe 6' left of the crack-like thingy. Looks like the gear isn't to bad either. The last pitch is certainly a stinker!

I called in sick. Met my buddy Gene in Monroe and had breakfast at the Sultan Bakery. They have the BEST toast anywhere! When we got out of the car in Index it was cold and windy. By the time we got to the Upper Town Wall, it was still breezy but warm. We climbed Davis-Holland to Lovin Arms. On the wall it actually was hot! Absolutely astounding weather for February. I'd hang up my skis for the season if I could keep having a few days like that. Total of 5 cars in the parking lot with people on all the usual suspects.

I skipped work yesterday (Thursday 2/6) and headed down to Index. I took ScottP's advice and did the first 2 pitches of The Zipper and the first 3 of Dana's Arch. The Zipper was awesome. Strenuous exposed moves out a huge roof. There is a lot of fixed gear along with some interesting camhooks and micronuts at the lip. I blew a pin (5/8 angle) while cleaning so it either needs to be replaced or bring some aliens. Definitely a bit harder than anything on GD or TC. Dana's Arch was excellent as well. Sustained, tricky aid throughout. I left narrow and wide camhooks on each daisy and used them over and over again. The first two pitches link and have lots of manky bolts and weird hooking to keep things interesting, maybe...C2+? At one point you hook a large pocket lined with quartz crystals, never seen anything like it. The third pitch was bit harder. Lots of bat hooks, hooks, mediocre cams and more manky bolts. I blew a chunk of rock out using a micro camhook resulting in a daisy fall on a bathook (IT HELD!). So I fixed a pin in the resulting scar. Pitch is probably C3, though bring a few skinny pins just in case. Both climbs don't need any gear bigger than 2 inches. Camhooks seem mandatory. For Dana's Arch bring 2 bathooks, 1 skyhook and 1 fishhook. Fun! Fun! Didn't see a soul all day.

Hey ScottP! Both those routes (Zipper and Dana's Arch) still have A-ratings in the Index Guide. Did you need pins for either of them? How many and what type? If you don't mind sharing. Thanks.

I'm deeply offended!

I'm guessing (doing a lot of that lately) he's somewhere around Drury Falls. Jupiter Rock? If that's the case I'd love to hear a trip report. How was it?

I climbed the Colorado Ridge Route. After Ancient Arts, it's considered the other easy climb in the area. Total of 3.5 pitches, a vast majority is C1 on fixed gear. Well if you actually fell it would probably be C3 as you'd be ripping gear out for sure. The position is incredible though, right along a vertical to slightly overhanging arete until you aid out a good size roof 500' off the deck. I should scan some photos...

The lake in the background (hard to see) and the dyke strewn pinnacle (teton-ish rock) on the right helped place it. What's with the cadaver? Is that a pun?

Mount Moran

I guess Ice Cliff, though the North Ridge doesn't look quite right!

To late. I'm sure we'll all be heading out come May to do a logging slash/bushwack approach to a 25+ pitch grade VI.

Agreed with Jordop that it's Urquart. Can you see the DeJong route in the photo?

There's a recent thread on supertopo.com regarding gear for the climb. You'll also find a 1st hand report and topo at bigwall.com and some good info at climbingmoab.com. (It's on my list too) Last fall I spent a little time there as well. Ancients Arts was super fun. I also climbed Kingfisher and found it much more gripping. Rock was muddier and the fixed gear was a total nightmare. Bent angles and bolts you could pull out by hand. I imagine the Titan is similar!

1973!!!!!! Was that like the second ascent?

I think Chuck has a photo of Chickamin and Chimney Rock just above. Earlier Off-White had a butt shot he said 50 of us had climbed. I'm thinking the crux finger crack on the West Face of North Early.

You're killing us Off White. What in the hell is that?

gregm - almost, not quite though As for Dino Pic -- uhhhhh...Mt Blum?

Maybe one of the more impressive features in the Cascades...

NW Rib of Forbidden i.e. Verbottenhorn

Black Peak or something nearby...Logan in background

South Buttress of Gimli Here's a photo (see attachment). Oh, and the peak does have a name. Not hard to identify, but it's all I got on my computer here at work. Think I need a slide scanner....

Dru #2 = Viennese ???

Anyone here ever climb the East Face of Pigeon? That looks like an amazing line..if it's not running with snow melt.

The McCallister Glacier from....god knows where....

Dragontail from Colchuck?