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dberdinka

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Everything posted by dberdinka

  1. dberdinka

    Mystery Photo

    I'm guessing (doing a lot of that lately) he's somewhere around Drury Falls. Jupiter Rock? If that's the case I'd love to hear a trip report. How was it?
  2. I climbed the Colorado Ridge Route. After Ancient Arts, it's considered the other easy climb in the area. Total of 3.5 pitches, a vast majority is C1 on fixed gear. Well if you actually fell it would probably be C3 as you'd be ripping gear out for sure. The position is incredible though, right along a vertical to slightly overhanging arete until you aid out a good size roof 500' off the deck. I should scan some photos...
  3. dberdinka

    Mystery Photo

    The lake in the background (hard to see) and the dyke strewn pinnacle (teton-ish rock) on the right helped place it. What's with the cadaver? Is that a pun?
  4. dberdinka

    Mystery Photo

    Mount Moran
  5. dberdinka

    Mystery Photo

    I guess Ice Cliff, though the North Ridge doesn't look quite right!
  6. dberdinka

    Mystery Photo

    To late. I'm sure we'll all be heading out come May to do a logging slash/bushwack approach to a 25+ pitch grade VI.
  7. dberdinka

    Mystery Photo

    Agreed with Jordop that it's Urquart. Can you see the DeJong route in the photo?
  8. There's a recent thread on supertopo.com regarding gear for the climb. You'll also find a 1st hand report and topo at bigwall.com and some good info at climbingmoab.com. (It's on my list too) Last fall I spent a little time there as well. Ancients Arts was super fun. I also climbed Kingfisher and found it much more gripping. Rock was muddier and the fixed gear was a total nightmare. Bent angles and bolts you could pull out by hand. I imagine the Titan is similar!
  9. dberdinka

    Mystery Photo

    1973!!!!!! Was that like the second ascent?
  10. dberdinka

    Mystery Photo

    I think Chuck has a photo of Chickamin and Chimney Rock just above. Earlier Off-White had a butt shot he said 50 of us had climbed. I'm thinking the crux finger crack on the West Face of North Early.
  11. dberdinka

    Mystery Photo

    You're killing us Off White. What in the hell is that?
  12. dberdinka

    Mystery Photo

    gregm - almost, not quite though As for Dino Pic -- uhhhhh...Mt Blum?
  13. dberdinka

    Mystery Photo

    Maybe one of the more impressive features in the Cascades...
  14. dberdinka

    Mystery Photo

    NW Rib of Forbidden i.e. Verbottenhorn
  15. dberdinka

    Mystery Photo

    Black Peak or something nearby...Logan in background
  16. dberdinka

    Mystery Photo

    South Buttress of Gimli Here's a photo (see attachment). Oh, and the peak does have a name. Not hard to identify, but it's all I got on my computer here at work. Think I need a slide scanner....
  17. dberdinka

    Mystery Photo

    Dru #2 = Viennese ???
  18. dberdinka

    Mystery Photo

    Anyone here ever climb the East Face of Pigeon? That looks like an amazing line..if it's not running with snow melt.
  19. dberdinka

    Mystery Photo

    The McCallister Glacier from....god knows where....
  20. dberdinka

    Mystery Photo

    Dragontail from Colchuck?
  21. (I'm assuming Dru would be the one to answer this!) Thumbing throught the new route book at MEC over the weekend I came across Shaun's topo-photos for the Nesakwatch Spires. Surprisingly all his new routes seemed to avoid the obvious clean dihedrals just left of the SW buttress route you (Dru) climbed this summer. Was it just missing a page? (That area was enclosed in a penciled in box) Or did he just avoid the apparently steepest, cleanest part of the wall? Thanks D
  22. I was long a doubter, but Aliens rule! They can be completely bomber in a placement that you couldn't even get a TCU to fit or stick in. I think for the most part it's due to there single stem design, allowing them to be placed it constrictions where a TCUs stem would bind up against the rock. Only downside is that the action seems to get mucked up a little faster than TCUs. Regardless, when I have to get more or replace old gear I will definitely be picking up Aliens.
  23. First off, if this website was visited only by individuals like me (quasi-lurkers) if would lack a lot of the entertainment value it currently has. On the other hand it is slowly sinking under the weight of pointless, indiscriminate posting. This thread being a perfect example! You can argue that it's all just for fun, but read through this thing again. Mattp begins with a very well articulated post trying to start an actual discussion on how this resource should be managed. In return maybe 1 in 15 posts has anything of relevance to say, much less anything witty or intelligent. "Blow me, tool" just doesn't qualify. (Maybe it should have been posted somewhere other than in Spray?) Personally I like the idea that some part of this website could actually be dedicated to the discussion of climbing, rather than a place to fire off one more knee-jerk moronic post. So I'm all for active moderation (i.e. delete ALL the bullshit) of posts in the trip report section. Do it enough and eventually the drivel will end up where it belongs. People can scream censorship, but you can still post whatever you want, you'd just have to do it in the appropriate place.
  24. desert spires = yawn ??!!???? Go climb some Dru. It's a hell of a lot more like alpine climbing then you might imagine!
  25. Necro's actually a pretty nice guy, if a bit on the ugly side...
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