dberdinka

in most cases a "sausagefest". Should one female be present call it a "gaggle"

Evidently the bridge across the river at the start of the trail is washed out. In Late June it was declared "IMPASSABLE!". Probably could get across one way or another now, just one more thing to think about....

My memory is hazy but for the B-C....... 60 meter ropes might be nice to ensure getting over the Bergshrund. Seems like it was pretty close to a full length rap. Lots of long pitches as well on route. We left our crampons and axes at the Pigeon-Howser Col. I bashed up my elbow real-good sliding down ice into a talus field. Not good I'd probably do it the same way again and just be very, very careful descending.

Andy Cairnes has posted some other photos of the face around here and also did an FA on it. PM him....

Way to go Layton! I think Jordan wrote once wrote something about if you keep swinging you'll eventually get a hit... or some inspiring metaphor like that.

mmmmmhh...We likes to eats the fishies we do!

Hey all, I'm packing up for a trip that will take us to some alpine lakes. Supposedly the fishing is great. I considering grabbing some hooks and line and do a little fishing Huck Finn style. What the heck do those suckers bite on? Worms, gummi bears, left over tortellini? If I'm not fly fishing am I wasting my time? Any stories are greatly appreciated?

I wouldn't be so sure about that anymore! Looks like my fiance and I might have a new objective on our way to a wedding in Winthrop here in a couple of weeks. Thanks for the detailed beta! Darin

Holy Shit! Next they'll be a pic of John Kerry nailing A5.

So I was full of it. Evidently the road is a little worse than 2wd.

Here is a completely untested idea based on second-hand accounts of access and routes but it might be worth considering..... Evidently there is a class 2-3 route up the south side that blasts straight up from easily accessable 2wd roads. It follows a long slab of granite (ala Darrington's granite sidewalk) to reach alpine slopes on the south side of the peak. An acquantance did this route in an easy day rt. See bivouac.com for details. Anyway bivi high on the south side. In the morning do the descent off of Ratney first then climb the route walk down to your camp and descend. If you went this way you'd be adding an extra 1500' vert to your trip but it might be preferable to the screwed up roads and what sounds like a nasty thrash of an approach.

Snow Field at mid-right above NW Glacier. Anyone done this? Anyone know anyone who's done this?

Tomihoy Peak would be a nice two day trip. Beautiful area, close to home.

Now that you're a "fast" party go do S Face of Ashlu in a day from Squish and give us a report!

I'll just add that the final chimney vs the sweet handcrack is actually really nice too. If you got some extra time do both.

Just read the summit-post beta. Detailed to the point of confusion. Rapping the last pitch is no-big-deal. A little bit of tension-traversing and maybe a bit of down climbing with the brake-hand still on the ropes type stuff. It seems that one should generally avoid "free hanging rappells into the loose-chossy abyss" beta. Just a thought...

I climbed the standard route on Warbonnet two falls ago. It is one of the most memorable and beautiful trips I ever did. The approach is straighforward, the XC part involves a LOT of talus aslong with some nice nice meadows. No bushwacking. Still just a moderate day though to get in there, maybe 6-7 hours. (take the boat to start). I camped at the last of a chain of lakes in the valley below the peak. Granite slabs, larches and meadows abound. Very nice. The climb is very pleasant. Reminiscent of the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell in terms of difficulty and style. First pitch start seemed to hard to find and looking more intimidating that it was. Route is easily rappelled including the last pitch. Little bits of downclimbing between rappels. There is a very nice variation hand crack (5.7) to climbers left of the easy chimney just before the final arete pitch. For kicks I hiked out by circling past Upper Red Fish Lakes. Very beautiful area with essentially no trace of human impact what so ever. I would recommend taking your time and enjoying the wilderness aspect the trip has to offer.

It's great to see history on so many aspects of the sport and individuals. That's an element of NW climbing that has been keenly missing. Keep up the great work! Looking forward to the next "issue".

I'm pretty sure I saw him in the produce section of the Food Pavilion last night, not a soldier around. You sure about that?

ahead in electoral

That would be a long friggin walk from the lake. 4hrs at least. A great climb but maybe not worth that much logging-road hiking.

I think there is an entire forum set aside at www.rockclimbing.com where people can stroke themselves over how many pitches less they did Epenephrine in than the next guy. You should check it out!

Mystery solved......

Grey Wall along the railroad tracks at Larrabee. Maybe 100 yards south of where the beach trail crosses under the tracks. Just below the parking lot on top of Mt Erie in Anacortes is a wall well suited for toproping.

Definitely post something on your footwear invention. It sounds pretty damn unique!