dberdinka

MOST DANGEROUS Route in the Cascades Hogsback on Hood on a busy June weekend

I had a 9.6 Sterling, I think it might have been a Marathon. It was amazingly durable yet had a really nice hand. I did a lot of jugging on it in the desert and it held up really well. The best rope I ever had, I would buy another if they still made them. Check out Gearexpress.com I think they currently have 9.5mm x 60M Marathons on sale.

He needs to have a more consistent message....

The weight of worldly matters conspires against me. Fug it, I'm going to Squamish. To those who make it happen, best wishes and give us a TR.

i.e. Should I hump my ass up to Colchuck Lake tomorrow Based on the various forecasts (NOAA and NWAC) the following conditions seem to be setting up for the east side. Cold temps through Friday, with minimal snowfall but high winds. Saturday looks sunny with rapidly rising temperatures. High winds & rapidly rising temps vs minimal new snow and sun....hmmmm........... Will we all die in an avalanche ? Will the routes fall off on our heads? Will we all send the radness? Discuss.......

Did you find it on Princely Ambitions? Evidently a blue alien was recently fixed there when the same thing happened!

Beautiful Photos! A route that looks worthy of repeats. On the right edge of the photo you can see a sliver of the 3000' N buttress of the NW summit. Another huge line that will one day be climbed.

Whats with downgrading my route bee-och! I could have sworn I gave it at least 5.6+ or 5.7 Do you know of any repeats?

I need to get a hold of the notoriously unreachable folks at CCH for cam repair. I can't find a phone number or web page to save my life. Anyone care to help? Thanks. Darin

Thanks Michael!

The NW Face is a Skoog route I'm thinking? It appears to be an awesome looking north face thats remote, hidden and on a big mountain. I wouldn't expect great rock quality but in the right conditions it might make an exciting alpine climb. Do it when the highway opens a write us a TR!

For almost a year I been suffering from chronic pain in my left back/shoulder. It flares up from climbing (particularly aid climbing -- pulling down on adjustable daisies and hammering) and is further aggrevated by staring at a monitor all day. Symptoms include very sore muscles over the shoulderblade particular on the interior side (near spine). The muscle in my shoulder and neck can also become very tight. It does not seem to be a rotator cuff problem. I plan on getting a referal to PT soon. I do have some questions Questions: Is this a common injury? If so what the heck is it? What is a reasonable plan of treatment medically? Should I seek out a PT or a LMP? In the mean time what can I do at home? What are some good stretches for the muscles over the back? What are some good low-intensity strength excersises for this area? After a vigorous day of free-climbing yesterday it is no worse than it was the day before. Should I continue to climb on it if it's not getting any worse? Or am I jepardizing the potential long term recovery? Looking for serious replys only, thanks a lot!

Beautiful! Where the hell were you?

Looking for a handful of beaks, peckers, KB/Bugaboos or Rurps (in that order of preference). Somebody out there must have some they're willing to part with. PM me. Thanks! Darin

Ok, a lame question, but..... They were my favorite shoes ever, then I got lazy, yesterday my left big toe starting sticking through the rand. Not good. Now I can't remember how tight I bought the things. Really tight? Or painfully tight? Can't remember. How much do these things stretch. Any advice? Thanks Darin

Wind Rivers are amazing. The Deep Lake area is a worthy counterpart to the cirque and was nearly deserted when I was there. Consider the South Ridge of Haystack vs the North Face. If you and your partner are up for it definitely add the Minor Dihedral to your list (III-IV 5.9) One of the best climbs I've done anywhere. In the Cirque WatchTower and Warrior have reps for shitty rock (not that Ive done either) S Butt of Pingora is fully worthy. Consider doing Sharks Tooth by any route (great rock) and naybe Overhang Tower in the same day (1 pitch 5-low to awesome summit). I think my favorite climb in the area is the East Face-Left Side Cracks on Pingora, up to 12 pitches of flawless granite from 5.5 to 5.7. There is an intimidating steep dihedral around pitch 10 (looks hard) that is stellar 5.7 jams and stemming. Awesome! Have fun.

Thursday was T-shirt weather at the LTW. Only half a dozen folks, all from B'ham. Little drips here and there but everything is pretty much dry. Gonna be there tomorrow. Yea-hah! QUESTION: What is an honest rating for the third (guidebook 11a) pitch of Heart of the Country?

I heard a rumor that new logging roads on the south side of Slesse last summer reduced the approach to "30 minutes". Hard to believe, though no one knows how to cut logging roads to timberline like the Canucks do! Any truth to this? *** POST 420 ..... SWEET!! ***

Beautiful. Is that the backside of Chair Peak?

"Battered Sandwich" is a cool route name on Private Idaho at Index. Name didn't make much sense until I pulled myself onto the ledge at the top after an embarassing amount of thrashing in a hand-crack to offwidth to lieback to squeeze chimney. I was the Battered Sandwich for sure.

I've done the Narrow Arrow Route you're describing on aid to the next set of anchors and continued up and over the big roof for a second pitch. From the orange anchors I recall highstepping on a very tiny offset to a long reach right and more micronuts. I don't think there were more than two shitty placements in a row. Considering the clean fall and the bomber anchor C2 seems reasonable, though it's probably harder than a lot of C2/3 pitches at Index. If you had HBs, aliens and camhooks you were probably pretty well equiped. The roof pitch should be avoided. The roof is cool but above there it is filthy and not much fun.

I once flagged a path into Chamois Peak in the Anderson River Group. There was definitely a best path to take which we only figured out after our first attempt. I flagged it heavily when we went in a second time. I figured should the route ever become popular one well defined path was better than 20 vague ones. Years later I walked by the start of that approach on the way to Les Cornes. The alder had grown incredibly thick and took several minutes just to find the first (very Large) piece of flagging I had used to mark the start. The road is now closed, the route is rarely climbed and I imagine all that flagging is now buried in pine needles and dirt. Probably best to just leave everyone to there own bushwacking.

West Ridge of North Twin Sister is popular, great position and modest difficulties.

Weeks of intense planning coincided with the perfect weather window for a trip to........ the Zoo! Accompanied by my nephew and niece in-law, I saw monkeys, giraffes, some very bored gorillas, more small children then you could shake a stick at. I even noticed how nice the mountains were looking in the distance. Aaaaghhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!

I think this was thev original...???