dberdinka

Soloist: A good device for hands-free top roping. Lead on it if you dare. $20 Solo-Aid: A good device for solo aid climbing. Requires hand feeding of rope. Can be set up for hands free top-roping. $20 2 Pickets: The standard 24" MSR stuff. Great psychological pro for steep snow climbing in the Cascades. $15 for both FREE! Scarpa T1s: Fits a size 10.5 or 11 mens foot. These are the solid black version from 5 yrs ago. Wild Things Freney: A well-used pack for alpine climbing. Foam pad back panel. Ice axe tubes and crampon patch. Bivi collar etc. The top pocket needs some stitching but it's got life left in it. Grivel 70 cm ice axe. A well used general mountaineering axe with a forged head. PM or emial at dberdinka (at) yahoo (dot) comr. I'll ship the stuff I'm selling for cost. Best if free stuff is picked up in B'ham or I'll be in Seattle Friday. Darin I'm in B'ham. Will be in Seattle Friday.

Headed to Alaska or somewhere else equally cold? Let me hook you up. 700 fill Goose down. Silver Goretex (not dryloft) fabric. Size Long. Draft tubes on neck and zipper Rated to - 20 degrees. $150 I've had this bag in storage for some time and have hardly ever used it. (Never quite made it to AK). PM me or email at dberdinka (at) yahoo (dot) com.

Yes. I realize this was more of a "You suck!, no you suck!" thread hence my note about changing the subject......... Regardless, please help me unstick my head should it truely be shoved up my bum. You've had eloquant and informative posts before, I trust you can do so again......

As I doubt we will come to a definitve answer on who is the bigger putz, I'm gonna try and change the subject... Mike, I like your posts. You certainly have a very different perspective on events that any of us do. I only have media on which to formulate my opinions. I’m curious what you think about “winning” this thing. The Case For War WMD? Reducing Terrorist Threats? Freedom for the Iraq people? Oil? Stable Borders for Israel? Bush Family Revenge? The Rapture? Certainly a question that has yet to honestly answered, and an important one for judging the actions and ability of Bush Co. But really, who gives a shit. We’re there. The situation is bad, what’s the end game now? The Desired Outcome IMHO Americans first priority in foreign governments is that they are friendly, stable, and allow foreign investment. Democracy and social justice is a secondary concern. Regardless the powers that be tell us the desired outcome is a united Iraq governed by a democratic government. My Question Being Is a united and democratic Iraq still a feasible outcome? If it was a feasible outcome in the beginning is it possible that we have made a series of choices (and failures) that prevent it from being so now? My take on all this is that through sheer political arrogance, the use of force (~10,000 civilians dead), disrespect of Islamic culture, a lack of security for the people, an infective rebuilding effort (power, water so forth) America has really lost any chance of bringing a stable, democratic government to Iraq. The UN does not appear to want to come in and take over our mess either. Furthermore, it does not take a scholar to look at Iraq, realize it is an artificially cobbled-together nation consisting of three ethnic groups and wonder is this a nation that can be governed by a representative democracy? Even if a democracy can be established, If you let the people elect representatives who reflect their desires, how long will it take to elect leaders who simply want to go their own way? Both the Kurds and the Shiites have sufficient oil reserves to create prosperous nations, doesn’t seem like any love would be lost among the them and the Sunnis. A three nation solution, or a new tyranny would be a disaster. Is that avoidable? Or are we on the verge of losing big-time?

You don't have to suspect!! Just the other night he told the world that he was carrying out The ALMIGHTY'S plan of bring freedom (not ot mention evangelical missionaries) to the Iraqis! What an idiot.......

The ligaments and tendons are evidently in good shape, all I got was the broken bone. My knees are already to shot to do much running, so how about the climbing folks?

It's hard enough getting into the shower right now, much less into a boat!

So I managed to pop off the tip of my tibia (medial maliolous) about 3 weeks ago and am now crutching around with what looks like a giant woodscrew holding the pieces together while my calf muscle withers away to nothing. The Doc tells me I can start weight bearing at the end of next week, followed by a month! of wearing a walking splint/cast followed by god knows how much physical rehabilitation. I know broken ankles are a pretty common climbing injury. Any first (or second) hand accounts of how long it took to recover from a similar injury? How long until you were out climbing again? Hopefully I won't end up like this!!

An interesting article on the prism through which some Americans (15% ) view events in the Middle East. Holy Shit some people are friggin wacked! Their Beliefs are Bonkers… “In the United States, several million people have succumbed to an extraordinary delusion. In the 19th century, two immigrant preachers cobbled together a series of unrelated passages from the Bible to create what appears to be a consistent narrative: Jesus will return to Earth when certain preconditions have been met. The first of these was the establishment of a state of Israel. The next involves Israel's occupation of the rest of its "biblical lands" (most of the Middle East), and the rebuilding of the Third Temple on the site now occupied by the Dome of the Rock and al-Aqsa mosques. The legions of the antichrist will then be deployed against Israel, and their war will lead to a final showdown in the valley of Armageddon. The Jews will either burn or convert to Christianity, and the Messiah will return to Earth. What makes the story so appealing to Christian fundamentalists is that before the big battle begins, all "true believers" (ie those who believe what they believe) will be lifted out of their clothes and wafted up to heaven during an event called the Rapture. We can laugh at these people, but we should not dismiss them. That their beliefs are bonkers does not mean they are marginal. American pollsters believe that 15-18% of US voters belong to churches or movements which subscribe to these teachings. A survey in 1999 suggested that this figure included 33% of ...... And among them are some of the most powerful men in America. John Ashcroft, the attorney general, is a true believer, so are several prominent senators and the House majority leader, Tom DeLay. Mr DeLay (who is also the co-author of the marvellously named DeLay-Doolittle Amendment, postponing campaign finance reforms) travelled to Israel last year to tell the Knesset that "there is no middle ground, no moderate position worth taking".

Confluence of Coyote Gulch and The Escalante River. There is no place more peaceful.

Soloing is an intensly personal experience. To do it safely requires being incredibly truthful with yourself. Ultimately I wonder about the motivations of any climber who solos in front of other groups, particularly in a crag atmosphere. Maybe if you a true zen-master-soloist it won't occur, but for the rest of us I'd bet that at some level our ego gets involved and we begin to make comparisons between our own performances and those of everyone else around us. If your choices are being influenced by that then you're no longer being completely honest with yourself. That's bad-style with potentially significant consequences. If your soloing you want to be alone right? So go do it where the presence of other people won't mess with your mind.

It all makes sense now...... The Guardian

Fuggin-A you guys did good! Check out Dave's trip report at www.alpinedave.com

So Peter, let me get this straight. Whether you agree with him or not, CBS claims that the "American Dream" was possible due to exploitable resources, in his arguement excess land. How does that relate to calling the "common man" (whatever the hell that is, we're all pretty common around here) a fool? Next you imply that he therefore must "hate democracy"! Thats a pretty damn emotionally charged statement. Based on the national dialog lately CBS must clearly be in the same category as "freedom haters", "thugs and assasins", ..were was I?... Oh I remember....Talk about turning a political discourse into a personal attack!

I've also been surprised by how crappy it can be at Washington Pass despite calm weather on the west side. I've had good luck (and it could very well be nothing more than luck) that if weather systems are moving in from a genrally westerly direction things are more likely to get better to the east. If they are moving in from a strong souther or southwesterly (typically the case) direction the crap is more likely to spread everywhere. An extremely simple idea that has proved correct enough times at least to be my own personal voodoo science weather. I don't think Washington Pass is quite the bastion of bomber weather that it is sometimes considered.

One of my first trips to the Easton Glacier Area put me firmly in the BAN-SNOWMOBILERS-MINDSET!!!!!!! It was late spring, and snow cover in Schreiber Meadows was not continuous. Yet nothing was going to stop the 'bilers from getting to there little slice of snowmobile nirvana. I watched several machines tear up portions of the recently snow free meadows, observed lots of damage in other sections of meadows and saw plenty of trash and oil-slicks in the water. Not to mention the incesant buzzzz once we got above treeline. Given the choice of tearing up 100 feet of meadow to get to the goods or packing it up and going home, it was quite obvious what choice all those 'bilers were making. In a few seconds one of those machines can do more damage to the alpine and sub-alpine enviroments than my boots will produce in a lifetime. Stereotypes exist for a reason and I am not at all convinced that many snowmobilers are anything like us. My experiences in Schriebers Meadow show a complete lack of respect for the natural enviroment. Considering the ease with which some jackass can get on their sled and thrash an area and the complete lack of self-policing (or any policing for that matter) 'bilers should simply not be allowed access to a sensitive, and still somewhat pristine alpine/sub-alpine area.

Thank you for a well-written report. The River Road area must be, in my mind, one of the most beautiful places in the world to climb. While there is no lack of ***** routes in the area, I feel like chiming in and saying add the Honeymoon Chimney on The Priest to your must-do list. Crazy geometry and an amazing summit structure make in the most memorable climb I've done in the Castle Valley. That last pitch on Sis Sup is one hell of a 5.9!! 5.9++ maybe!

People with no climbing experience follow Midway Climbers with no leading experience lead Midway (All based on first-hand experience back-in-the-day) Like Chuck says, if Midway is not a novice/easy climb what is?

This guy's got it made, I need a vacation schedule like that!

I've got three more weeks in a cast that should come off around 4/30. Expect much sunny weather until that date, thereafter expect continuous rain until August at least.

I nned to get my gimpy body (broken right ankle) from Bellingham to North Seattle this evening (Friday 4/9). Anyone headed in that direction?

You've got some bad ju-ju going on there with rockfall bro. I ain't climbing anywhere near you there.

Monday was a great day as I skipped work and headed up to Squish with 3 joyously unemployed friends. The Smoke Bluffs were essentially deserted and by 10 AM is was almost too hot to climb in the sun. My headspace was great and I was consistently leading routes at or just beyond my onsite ability. My abilites were well matched with a new friend Matt, partner to the infamous Big 4 Layton rescue. By early afternoon I was whipped and seriously considered just getting on some easier well-protected climbs. Instead I kept pushing myself, and got on a climb called "Where Ancients Fear to Tread" just right of Geritol on the Neat & Cool Wall. Wearing a helmet I cautiously worked my way up the intermittent cracks and thin face moves. Doubling up most protection points I essentially sewed it up. Near the top you hit a horizontal break that you traverse right on. After much hesitation I moved right about 10' then tried to move straight up over an overlap to what I later discovered was an off route bolt. Regardless, my grip strength faded, I started to flail, my foot blew off and I took a fall. A nice big pendulum fall, grating across the less-than-vertical wall. As I fell I swung in torwards my line of gear. As I passed the perpendicular my right foot caught on the now taught rope running to my belayer. SNAP! I yelled out, in a high-pitched squeal, "OUCH! I broke my ankle!" Quickly followed by "LOWER ME DOWN" My inner ankle was visibly deformed. Matt quickly lowered me to the ground, where we pulled my rock shoe off. My buddy Allen and his housemate Tomaline came over in minutes. Tomaline (also know as Traumaline) is a wilderness medicine instructor, Allens a long time guide, Matt seemed to know what he was doing as well . It was well splitted within 5 minutes and we were on our way home with 45. X-Rays at St Josephs on Monday night show that I had broken off the inner knob of my Tibia. 1 big chunk, 2 smaller fragments and god knows what else. It's surprisingly unpainful, though I imagine the Vicodin is helping. Surgery is scheduled for Friday, I'll be off it for at least a month. I am so suck Honestly I feel surprisingly upbeat. I've seen a lot worse happen in Squamish, a friend of a friend is dieing of cancer in their 30's. My condition is a minor inconvience in comparison. And I've got a script for Percidan come post-op. Lesson Learned: I DIDN'T LISTEN TO MY INTUITON. Even though it was speaking with much clarity. Getting on a climb just at the border of my onsite ability, that was nebulous and relatively runout, when I was worn out on a muggy day was, in retrospect unneccesary and somewhat stupid. A couple observations. In the last few years I've devoted a fair bit of energy to solo-climbing, something I've generally found terrifying. By learning too push through the irrational fears associated with that activity I think I have lost a healthy respect for reasonable fears. With more and more of my time and energy focused on work and a rapidly maturing relationship (I'm recently engaged) when I do have time to climb I've been very intense, trying to push myself and get the most out of the experience. My ego got involved. Climbing with a new, and strong, partner made me want to push things. Note this all about me, nothing to do with the personality of the partner. I've got at least six weeks to focus on other things (like completing a long overdue Masters) and look hope to be climbing again in the late spring. In the mean time, I definitely will listen to myself far more carefully in the future and I hope it rains every freakin weekend. Darin

You guys have peeked my interest. Looking at maps could you not hike into Boulder Lake, then schwack up to the ridge crest and wander along that to get into this Weber-Frostbite area? And whats with the Sasquatch Mr Granite? Tell us more......

ummmm.....what/where is Whore of Babylon? I need a proj for this afternoon.