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dberdinka

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Everything posted by dberdinka

  1. Holy Crap! What inspired that?!
  2. A different sort of Choss on The Titan
  3. The first half of Springbok Arete on Les Cornes is pooo. Lots of kitty litter granite mixed with a nice assortment of fragile holds, loose blocks and wide cracks. Oddly enough the second half is as good as alpine rock gets. I've decided that I must fundamentally be an optimist as I really only remember the second half anymore. I once attempted Sunday Cruise on the backside of With Doctor Wall in Darrington. It's the only freeclimb on the wall and the topo it looked sweet. We made it two pitches before bailing at the top of a pitch of 5.5. Entire thing was made of massive, loose, mossy, perched flakes. I will never go back. Yellow Brick Road in Marble Canyon is the BEST chossy climb I've ever done. If you don't tear off 1000 lb blocks of limestone you'll have a great time!
  4. What are you saying? New Jersey 4th class = Washington 5.7 ??
  5. bold slashes with a suttle background of light clawing on a seemingly opaque medium remind us all of the universal struggle to define what a meanigful existence is......
  6. Reuse the holes! If that means drilling it out to 3/8" so be it. That is a lot better option than drilling new holes next to the old ones IMHO. Clipping fixed gear is clipping fixed gear, if someone is going to be bent out of shape that a bolt ladder is in good condition they should be aiding up that big scary wall near the parking lot!
  7. Ugghh. Sorry to hear it. How did the broken ankle occur?
  8. Evidently that face was a bit of a "test piece" ski descent back in the 80's. I believe it saw numerous descents. Darin
  9. The NE buttress of Goode and NE Face of Redoubt are undoubtedly super bitchen. My dream week would be to hike in Downey Creek to Dome Peak, climb Dome, cross the Chikamin Glacier, climb Sinister and sweet granite on the Gunsite Peaks, hit Agnes if you have time then hike south across the Hanging Gardens to Image Lake and out via the Suiattle River. That would be the schiznit.
  10. You can be as as you want about it. But it's just amazing how shit rolls of Bush Jr. like mercury.
  11. Here's a quote from that press conference of his back in April. "freedom is the Almighty's gift to every man and woman in this world. And as the greatest power on the face of the Earth, we have an obligation to help the spread of freedom." Well there's his justification for the driving force of our foreign policy.
  12. Last year I was in the Cirque from July 2nd through the 7th. No snow. In 1998 I was in the Cirque and Deep Lake area for about 10 days from June 21 through July 1. Lots and lots of snow, though it melted fast and we did lots of climbing. Darin
  13. And this will somehow be more productive for them than say looking at guidebooks or a recent copy of Rock&Ice proudly displaying the longest blted sprt climb in the world? Exactly what beta will they be looking for? Best I can tell is that they will find that a vocal minority here is not impressed with engineering of blted climbs in what have tradionally been wild areas. In fact that might be considered a good thing if they realize not all climbers are running around with Bosch in hand, or support such activity. So exactly what is being said here that is so harmful to climbers?
  14. As well as for the big quake. Shit!
  15. AAaaaaaghhh! Don't post that shit, it gives me anxiety!
  16. Woke me up as well in Bellingham. More of a deep rumble than an explosion.
  17. Waddington Guide = Inspiration Coast Range Picture Book = photos of obscure snowy ridges All books sold EN MASS to one fellow spraymeister. Sorry guys!!
  18. Particularly sad considering your alpine success ratio. Sorry Mike, couldn't help myself...
  19. I've always wanted to do the Macrabe-Matiarche-Grimface traverse up in Canada just above the Okanogan. See the red beckey guide or ask Dru. 7 hour approach, to long mid-5th ridge traverse. Looks amazing. In the Swatooths of Idaho there are many remote low-5th climbing objectives. Warbonnet Peak (II 5.6) was one of the finest trips I ever did, didn't see a soul.
  20. Books for Sale I'll give preference to those who can pick up in B'ham or those who order in bulk. I'll add cost on shipping. Picture/History/Nonfiction Books Mountains of the Coast - hardcover, J Baldwin $10 The History of the 8000-Meter Peaks - hardcover, Sale & Claire, 2000 $10 Stone Crusade, J Sherman, 1999 -signed by my mother!!!- $10 This Game of Ghosts, J Simpson, 1993 $5 Royal Robbins-Spirit of the Age, P Ament, 1992 $5 GuideBooks Oregon Oregon Rock - A Climbers Guide, J Thomas, 1983 $5 Oregon High, J Thomas, 1993 $5 Washington Leavenworth Rock, Kramer, 1996 tattered-free Icicle Canyon Rock Climbs, Kramer, 1989 -Collectors Item!- $5 Wyoming Teton Classics, R Rossiter, 1994 $5 Canada Skaha-New Climbs, K Mclane, 96 free How-to-Rock-Climb Series How to Rock Climb v2, J Long, 1993 $5 Big Walls, J Long & J Middendorf, 1994 $5 Climbing Anchors, J Long, 1993 $5 Other Instructional Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue, A Selters, 1990 $5
  21. In another post MattP refers to an ascent of the same face about 20 years ago by David Whitelaw and partner. We can presume they took a less direct line and might have even placed some bolts, but big routes on big faces can be established without having to rap bolt them first. Of course they were inconvienced by a round-about and difficult descent......thank goodness that's no longer an issue.
  22. So apparently there were two meetings? Climbers getting together last night to organize? Then a meeting today with DNR? My apologizes I assumed there were two meetings with DNR. Sounds more like the WRDC then the WCC, Washington Route Developers Coalition.
  23. Clearly there was no desire to notify the climbing public at large that such a meeting was taking place. If there was an interest in doing so this website would be an obvious place to post such a message. Rather, it would appear, a small group of individuals chose to limit knowledge that such a meeting was taking place and, with all probability, tried to pass of their objectives and opinions as the of climbers as a whole. Thats pretty friggin weak! Some of the people who apparently attended are pretty adament about insisting that all climbers get more involved with land management. Yet when the oppurtunity arised they kept mum in an attempt to control the dialog. Thats actually really friggin weak!
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