dberdinka

Books for Sale I'll give preference to those who can pick up in B'ham or those who order in bulk. I'll add cost on shipping. Picture/History/Nonfiction Books Mountains of the Coast - hardcover, J Baldwin $10 The History of the 8000-Meter Peaks - hardcover, Sale & Claire, 2000 $10 Stone Crusade, J Sherman, 1999 -signed by my mother!!!- $10 This Game of Ghosts, J Simpson, 1993 $5 Royal Robbins-Spirit of the Age, P Ament, 1992 $5 GuideBooks Oregon Oregon Rock - A Climbers Guide, J Thomas, 1983 $5 Oregon High, J Thomas, 1993 $5 Washington Leavenworth Rock, Kramer, 1996 tattered-free Icicle Canyon Rock Climbs, Kramer, 1989 -Collectors Item!- $5 Wyoming Teton Classics, R Rossiter, 1994 $5 Canada Skaha-New Climbs, K Mclane, 96 free How-to-Rock-Climb Series How to Rock Climb v2, J Long, 1993 $5 Big Walls, J Long & J Middendorf, 1994 $5 Climbing Anchors, J Long, 1993 $5 Other Instructional Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue, A Selters, 1990 $5

In another post MattP refers to an ascent of the same face about 20 years ago by David Whitelaw and partner. We can presume they took a less direct line and might have even placed some bolts, but big routes on big faces can be established without having to rap bolt them first. Of course they were inconvienced by a round-about and difficult descent......thank goodness that's no longer an issue.

Check PMs

So apparently there were two meetings? Climbers getting together last night to organize? Then a meeting today with DNR? My apologizes I assumed there were two meetings with DNR. Sounds more like the WRDC then the WCC, Washington Route Developers Coalition.

Clearly there was no desire to notify the climbing public at large that such a meeting was taking place. If there was an interest in doing so this website would be an obvious place to post such a message. Rather, it would appear, a small group of individuals chose to limit knowledge that such a meeting was taking place and, with all probability, tried to pass of their objectives and opinions as the of climbers as a whole. Thats pretty friggin weak! Some of the people who apparently attended are pretty adament about insisting that all climbers get more involved with land management. Yet when the oppurtunity arised they kept mum in an attempt to control the dialog. Thats actually really friggin weak!

Climbing, sport climbing, mountain climbing are legitimate activities. Doesn't mean they are always legitimate, everywhere. Where do you draw the line? Seems like it should fall somewhere on this side of trying to turn a mountain into a sport route. Nevermind the ethics of climbing (apparently there no longer are any) Infinte Bliss is a huge friggin engineering project with bolts placed to not only ensure safety but to ensure convience as well. If climbers can construct such an entity along with the trail to reach it, why should hunters not be allowed to build cabins, or bikers trails? Furthermore the publicity surrounding the route along with its "sport" designation seems like an accident waiting to happen when you factor in all the alpine characteristics of loose rock, long descent, route finding, weather etc that many a "sport" climber is possibly not equiped and experienced enough to realize and handle. When the clusterf*&k happens who's going to be responsible for the rescue/cleanup? Some element of the government I assume. Climbings great, clipping bolts is sweet, but at some point enough is enough. Good luck!

Where does one find these satellite/aerial photos????

Based on photos posted around here earlier looks like you should expect a lot of snow and wet rock on Backbone. Have a good time.

I can barely write a 4 page report. How in the hell do these government types put together 6000 page reports? Who in the hell even reviews more than a tiny fraction of a 6000 page report? If they had left it in would anyone have noticed?

Pull over and let them pass? You can keep chillin, they can get going. Everyone is happy!

Warm, burly mittens for your next extreme assualt on the big, chilly, massif of your choosing. Black Cordura-gortex, with grippy dot pattern on hand and lined-fleece insert. Practically brand-spanking new. $100+ retail. Yours for $25 + $5 shipping. Size Lg --- just like tomtom!

I've placed a couple quarter inch buttonheads with one. Worked fine, don't have anything to compare it too though. I'd hate to have to hand drill a 3/8" bolt, the 1/4"ers take enough effort.

Go away

Amazing how some rescues are so hyped they make primetime national news, while others take place in almost total obscurity. Regardless, knowing the details of climbing accidents that take place in our local hills is valuable to everyone who climbs. It would be much appreciated if a recount of the Shuksan accident could be told here. Darin

Thats a perfectly wasted pagetop! Sprayer like you should know better. Oops, she did a again

Flipped through the latest copy of R&I this morning (Actually I pretty much just stared at the cover for a while) Looks like the printer must have somehow crossed Maxim, R&I and a pop-up for online porn into one magazine. Evidently the most pressing issue in climbing these days is "whos the most pimp-daddy east-coast boulderer yo?" Apparently no one ties into a rope either anymore. What the fuk? If I want porn I'll go buy some chub. If I want climbing porn guess I'll have to buy them british rags. Though if your too shy to buy the real stuff you might want to check it out!

From Burlington take Highway 20 west for about 15 minutes. At a light go left, still on Highway 20, towards Deception Pass. After a couple miles go right on Campbell Lake Road. Mt Erie will be to your right. When the road splits at a beat up convience store go right on Heart Lake Road. About 200 yards later park on the right at a small pullout and trail, just past a house. Follow the trail, looking for signs to the Main Wall. They've fugged this approach up in the last couple years with trail closures and such but eventually you should figure it out. Your looking for a route called Zig-Zag on Snag Buttress. The obvious silver snag halfway up the cliff should help you find it. Start in a right facing corner (5.6)then over a bulge to chain anchors. Easy slab leads up right to the snag. Head straight up towards a short right facing corner/roof thing to a big ledge. Walk right on the "tree limb of death" then follow a very nice, very exposed crack system to the top. Can be done in 2-4 pitches. Preferrably top out just before sunset.

Mt Erie? A great place! The main wall has zig-zag a mega fun 2-4 pitch 5.7. Lots of sandwiched, bolted 5.8-5.10 pitches put up as variations in the last few years. Also several 5.11 sport routes at the base. The view (particularly at sunset is amazing) N Cascades, puget sound, rainier, olympics san juans all from one perpsective. Lots of eagles can see riding thermals as well. Right outside of Anacortes.

Exactly where are you going in Utah? If your in Zion go climb Ashtar Command (2p 5.9) and the Headache (3p 10+) They are near the tunnel and face north (shady) Very, very good well protected climbs. Prodigal Son on the N Face of Angels Landing is also a shady route. It's easy, fast, enjoyable aid that makes for good soloing. In June you might not even have to wait in line. You could do a couple pitches then bail. I would HIGHLY, HIGHLY recommend doing some canyoneering if you're in Zion. Particularly if it's really hot. PM me for details if your interested. Around Moab I've only climbed around the River Road. Ancient Art in the Fisher towers is a must do even though it gets lots of sun. Do it in the evening (4p 5.9 C0) Most of the easier aid routes also get a fair bit of shade like The Colorado Ridge on Kingfisher (5p C2), Phantom Sprint on Echo Tower (4p C2+), Finger of Fate on the Titan (8p C2) and the North Face of River Tower (3p C2). Probably not a place to learn to aid or solo-aid but the climbing there is much better than commonly thought.

If the sling is in good shape upon careful inspection you can rap off a sling. However rope drag will potentially be worse when you need to pull the rope (bad for you) also a rope pulled directly through sling material can "burn" the sling resulting in eventual failure (bad for everyone else). Use your own judgement. Double ropes can have the avantage of reducing rope-drag when used on wandering terrain if used correctly! On big (alpine) routes doubles (or twins - simply thinner versions of doubles) have the advantage of allowing full rope length rappelling without having to carry or drag a second rap/trail line. If your new to climbing and focused on cragging stick to single ropes.

assmonkey is a symian who speaks much wisdom. Listen to him. A health relationship and a healthy pursuit of climbing do not have to involve the same person (and are generally healthiest if they don't)

A B'ham climber DIED on that route in the early 90's. Evidently at the top you're forced onto the hanging glacier (I believe via rappel) At that point a serac higher up on the glacier calved and buried him. The arete itself is well protected, I've seen a very, very large avalanche break off the hanging glacier and hit the wall of the arete. It bounced back in a billowing cloud that dropped straightdown below the icefall. Be safe

I don't wanna register. Why don't you copy-paste