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Everything posted by layton
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[TR] Red Rocks - Resolution Arete 11/26/2006
layton replied to layton's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
I know a guy who did Epinepherine, Lev 29, AND Cloud Tower in a single day...which was also his 1st day at Red Rocks. Now that's fast. -
[TR] Red Rocks - Resolution Arete 11/26/2006
layton replied to layton's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
i'm still impressed w/pink's time on the res concidering my roundtrip on epi was the same. -
I think we all learned a little something about...ourselves
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cept the Icebreaker girl is so hot i lose a load each time I log in to the site here.
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Jens, Patagonia Silk Wt Longsleeve Capiliene is the total shit. Nothing is better, period.
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www.cafeshops.com/alpinist -My New Store
layton replied to layton's topic in Personal Climbing Web Pages
6 months left until I pull the plug on my little shop. So buy up some shit. Still haven't made one red cent, but i've broke even at least! -
[TR] Red Rocks - Resolution Arete 11/26/2006
layton replied to layton's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
on Res arete? fuck that's fucking re-fuckingdickoulsly fucking fast. -
here's the link for you
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He finally got his wish to meet James Brown
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nothin beat NITRO's 4 neck guitar
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Step one: Go to a gear shop. one(b):Go to an online gear shop. Step Two: Buy Mt Hood map and Guidebook.
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[TR] Red Rocks - Resolution Arete 11/26/2006
layton replied to layton's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Other high quality climbs there are: Cloud Tower, a do-able (i.e. gear pull) 11+ with the best cracks in the park Black Orpheus/Chicken Lips Combo-"17" pitches of moderate fun Night Crawler-short but excellent Triassic Sands-fun as hell Sour Mash, Prince of Darkness and Dream of Wild Turkey-awesome exposure Frigid Air Buttress-sweet final pitch, complex descent Eagle's Dance-next to levatation 29...but better climbing I've heard that Dark Shadows to the Top, Commuity Pillar, Magic Triangle, Bird Hunter Buttress, Fiddler on the Roof, Y2K, Crabby Appleton and the free version of the Original Route are good. I didn't think that of Frogland, Ginger Cracks, Levatation 29, Chrimson Chrysalis, Black Dagger, Unimpeachable Groping, or Refried Brains were all they were cracked up to be...but were fun nonetheless. Anyone done Lady Wilson's Cleavage. The Lady Wilson's cleavage on the canadian rockies Mt. Wilson is stupid. How about the ones I mention on Mt Wilson, Time's Up, Only the Good Die Young, Lone Star, Risky Business, Cartwright Corner, Hordogger/Sundog, Sunflower, La Cierta Erdad, or Chuckwalla??? Anyone? -
a lanyard is an essential part of compass use mine is red. it has a declination key on it. and a whistle for when I need an adult.
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my cat's breath smells like catfood
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did it come with a lanyard?
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i remember seeing alpental 1 for the 1st time, and then feeling sorry for the climbers.
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now i thought weekend_climberz and vwforever were the same person?
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[TR] Red Rocks - Resolution Arete 11/26/2006
layton replied to layton's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
bivy bling bling. Bill, the route is sweet, but there are some shitty pitches. 5/5 for adventure, 2/5 for quality. basically if you don't want to do this route you should be belaying your noob girlfriend/boyfriend at the panty wall. Anyone got a TR for Dogma, Woman of Mtn Dreams, Inti Wanta or any of the other long rts on MT Wilson? -
hells ya boyz
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[TR] Red Rocks - Resolution Arete 11/26/2006
layton replied to layton's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Yeah, climbing w/you three was a total blast! -
Trip: Red Rocks - Resolution Arete Date: 11/26/2006 Trip Report: Inspired by Billcoe, i thought I'd add a redrocks TR. Ignore the date, this is from early 2003 back when I lived in Vegas baby. George Bell has a great topo for the route lurking somewhere on the internet. For the love of God don't follow Swain's map! The four of us always wanted to do resolution arete. Jason Martin, because he also lived in Vegas, Jay H. because it was long and Jay likes it long, and Justin T., well...because we told him that's what he was going to do! Actually, Justin had never climbed sandstone and was on a 1 week spring break. Good way to introduce him to it! The reason we did it as a group of 4 was because we were too cheap to bring two cars, so Justin and I were a team, Jay and Jason the other. We probably should have communicated better, because Justin and I packed to do it in a day, and Jay and Jason were planning on biving. Justin and I each had a pack, while Jason and Jay only had one pack. Not to poke fun of them, but look... Yes, they had on giant pack. It took a bit to find the correct start (pictured above), and the climb immediately lived up to it's reputation. Almost each pitch of the 25 or so pitches had an offwidth and a run-out. One pitch had one piece of gear the whole way, thankfully was a (crumbly) 5.8 After about 10 pitches, two party members got all sissy pants and wanted to rap. The other two were like, "shut the fuck up and climb bitch". Things got cluster fucked a few times. One of the J's got stuck and I had to climb past and around him and bring all 3 members up. Then one of the J's got the rope caught behind his cams on the infamous 5.11 roof overhand free/1pt aid pitch. At this point Justin and I realized we would be bivying if we didn't scoot on ahead. Jay and Jason were getting a savage beating by their monster packs. We got to a bid ledge most of the way up before we figured we might as well wait for them to catch up, considering they had the car keys and were our friends. They made it to our ledge in the dark, and busted out their sleeping bags and pringles. Justin had brought a belay parka in his small pack. My bivy kit was my windbreaker, a small bottle of Jack Daniels, two sleeping pills, a pair of earplugs, and a pack of cigarettes. Having downed most of my "bivy kit" I passed out for the night. I awoke to a beautiful dawn, and being kicked by three guys pissed and ready to go. "Jesus Chirst Mike! How the Fuck did you sleep so soundly with no bag?", one of the J's asked. Day two were had the overhanging chalk and killer bees pitches. It's really hard not to get stung by a horde of Africanized Killer Honey Bees when they like to sit between the belay device and the brake hand. Also when a team make takes a big-ol upsidedown winger. Luckily on the overhanding stacked blocks of chalk cliff, no one pulled out the Jenga piece. At mid morning, we finally topped out..very thirsty. One description of the very complex descent were heard was, "go down at the VW sized boulder." We had a huge moment of indecision when we saw a boulder that LOOKED exactly like a VW van. Wheels, window, doors, everything. Right way or not, we made it down in about 3-4 hours on a very very beautiful descent. The march across the flat desert to the highway was quite the death march, so we took it out on all you can eat buffets and cans of beer. Resolution Arete is the ridge right of center.
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great TR bill, thanks for the stoke in this rainy schooly weather. I want to do that route with a carton of eggs in my pack to see if I can keep from breaking any. One hint i don't think you mentioned is to simul climb p1-3 into the chimney, do pitch 4, combine p5+6, 7+8, 9+10, 11+12, 13+14, 15+16, 17+18, and rope off to the top making it only 9 pitches.
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only one more hour of baby jesus day.
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I got you Jean Claude VanDam's head in a box that no talent ass-clown.
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Thanks! I took a never before taken route from my house to blockbuster video. New variations to the liquor store and the mini-mart up-ahead. And maybe...just maybe, a link up of all three.