layton

tell me it wasn't pete

there are safer and more effective knee exercises besides knee extensions - it's all about what imbalance exists, what activity aggravates it, and what activity you want to be doing.

just be aware that each of you may have a different diagnosis, so what works/doesn't for your condition may be completely different than someone else with knee pain.

1/4 mile

that's much more that when i was there on saturday. be careful that the ice isn't garbage. still, shouldn't stop folk from trying! go get it.

Actually, no. I was in there last fri-sat. It's not anywhere near the conditions philfort's original picture showed. The ice is unprotectable snice, and it will be mostly a long mixed route at a pretty high standard.

how about I have a compacted toenail from last weekend and can barely walk in sandals, less ridig ice boots repeatedly bashing into the ice? no, that's still a lame excuse. look for my corpse or amputated foot at the base.

Good Job! If you got it then you deserved it and were the best person for it. Congratulate yourself!

you can tape your toe in the meanwhile...google turf toe and taping. As for hard vs. soft in arch height. Here's the logic. Over-pronators tend to roll their foot in too much, causing a decrease in arch height. Pronation is a loose packed position in the foot, creating shock absorption. Supination is the closed packed position, creating a rigid lever for stability and propulsion. Under-pronators=Too rigid=soft curved slip lasted shoe. Over-pronators=too floppy=board lasted stiffer shoe. The arch is meant to act as a support for your body to use, much like cars on a bridge. There are plenty of normal and abnormal variations in arch height that have nothing to do with how much you do or do not pronate.

Long walks on the beach? sickie

This game of wack-a-mole goes at 5.6

My PNW climbers don't need to do calf raises was merely a jab at the long approaches. Listen to "brukb"-sound advice. BirdDog-tendons from leg muscles (along with the alignment of your bones, fascia, ligaments, etc) hold up your foot arch, and could likely create more demands on your calf muscles if those muscles got stretched out or were weak...the foot is your foundation, and if the foundation changes, things upstairs must compensate as a result. Sounds like your Doc was just trying to make it easy to understand, which usually furthers confusion.

scoped out sloan W and NW face today. Lots of breakable crust over powder=slow going. Gotta ski up the FSR too. Takes a while to get back in there now. As for the face, not near as icy as the original Philfort pic. There was a 2-3 pitch fatty looking ice line, but it turned out to be aerated unprotectable snice. Snow was stable on the avy slopes at sloan however. Bring your pickets

cool, I'll be there!

yeah, TB is just as bad as AIDS..but no press. Nasty shit.

Hey folks, I'm still in the clinic for a few more months, so I'd love to help anyone who wants to work on any injuries, or wants an evaluation to get some recommendations to improve your climbing, or your health! send me a PM, or just call the clinic # and ask for me. Safe climbing! -Mike Layton

Some people drink their own urine for the medical benefits, -I drink mine for the taste.

croft's book ain't no beckey guide, but it's the best one hands down.

The fastest climber on Liberty Crack is the one having the shortest amount of fun...but the most too!

All of you are screwing around. Quit screwing around.

1st, if you're worried, go see a PT,MD,DC,massage therapist, someone...The suggestion I gave are for what I would do in your case, and I'm not saying you should perform anything I mentioned. I made that comment about calf raises and the PNW because we all slog uphill so much, that these muscles are probably overdeveloped in relation to other muscles, like the tibialis anterior, which is strengthen by forefoot raises. I gots to go and may not check in for a bit, but the general exercise is the raise your foot off the ground with the heel still in contact. you can but a dumbell over your toes to get some extra resistance. as for climbing, just be aware if your calves are getting sore/tight, and take the time to stretch and and put yourself in a position when you are 1/2 through a lead or hike out when this occurs so you don't aggrevate it. maybe your calves are weak and are in pain b/c they are over-taxed...in that case calf raises are the ticket.

if it was my problem, this is what I'd do... stretch it, and your hamstrings for at least 2 minutes, 3x day = minimum 6 minutes a day get it massaged and trigger points worked out stop doing heel raises, if you climb in the PNW, you don't need to do heel raises stand on a wobble board instead do the opposite, forefoot raises with tubing or a barbell weight on your shoe. maybe insert a heel lift on both shoes night splint in a dorsiflexed position would be a hardcore option have your knee and foot adjusted drink more water get more vitamins and electrolytes in your diet

no, you're right on the money. nice deductive reasoning skills there broseph. there's a bit more too it, of course, but i'm pretty impressed

take a spoon handle, apply a little lotion, and stick it up.. no actually scrape the shit out of the scar tissue in the direction of muscle pull. it won't hurt as much as it sounds. expect some bruising though. glucosamine sulfate is the product tested in the positive research studies. HCL is up for grabs if it works, some studies say no, some say yes... Ever wonder why it's cheaper? Vit C and E are helpful in collagen restoration. Exercises: Squats with a ball between you legs, leg press w/ball b/t legs, one leg squats, leg extension with ankle turned out. start light...tubing or body weight in an eccentric motion (the muscle is lengthened and resisting...like someone is trying to push your leg instead of you pushing against theirs..understand?) So a slow controlled down phase of the 1 leg squat. Then build up to an "open chain" concentric exercise like leg extensions against resistance...focusing on the VMO. Look in the mirror. Are you knock kneed, bow legged? Is one leg shorter than the other? Do your arches collapse? Does your foot roll inwards too much when you run? Are you timing your toe-off phase correctly when you run? These are some of the things someone should look at to get to why you hurt your knee in the 1st place. Repetitive use in a correct way should strengthen your joints, not hurt them.

don't worry, they don't accept Canadian dollars