layton

I'm glad that girls go too.

was it a traverse or enchainment?

hope they like rock-climbing

if you are planning a trip to the bugs, be warned that the col is falling apart. We had a couple VERY close calls that would have killed us. Lots of HUGE rockslides on bugaboo and snowpatch. the mountains are falling apart. be careful. That being said, the rockclimbing is enjoyable, the views are amazing, and most of all the people (about 1/2) are awesome. and beautiful girls too. maybe I'll post some pics when I can afford to develop my film. Thanks to all who made the trip memorable.

did your partner remember the rope?

didn't see the parkway, but I'd scratch any snow or ice routes off the list this summer. the mountains are falling apart. wear two helmets.

I saw a description in a british how to climb handbook of how to rap off snow with two ice axes or pictets as anchors and them be able to retrieve them! slot the pickets(or ax) sideways, the other one straight down in front. Attach a prussic to the top of the rope near the knot and to the sideways slotted picket or ax. attach a sling to the other picket. Pull the prussik side to unslot the sideways piece and that will yoink out the downward slotted piece. Enjoy steaming mugs of cocoa while your partner easily catches the tumbling rope and pickets or axes. Apply wound maintainence when finished, or reclimb the pitch when everything gets jammed up. You can also girth hitch an anchor and attach a prussic to the rope on the pull side, the other end of the prussick to the outside loop of the girth hitch. Like magic, nothing gets fucking stuck, and you get your sling back! I like to employ these tricks on really really really steep raps with lots of horns and ledges and flakes. -just my canadian $345.56

Hey! I'll go. Let me know when we are leaving. I will promise to write the best trip report known to man. I have attitude and have climbed many of the cascade jewels! I don't have any money, but I can take the photo from the summit. Gimme me a couple weeks notice before we go!

Has the PRG gotten cardio yet and some machines? no!? how about systems boards or HIT training...?

too bad my partner didn't think so at about the river crossing...

gottcha with the pushing up on the rope

When I rap with a fifi hook, I only bring on rope. I fix the end of it to the hook and rap 60m. To get my rope back, i simply push up on the rope to unhook the fifi.

Whoa! Girls!

Gene, 1st, you are going to die. 2nd, i met some folks coming of the Betolius route (N.F.) two weeks ago and said it wasn't bad. Bring a stubbie screw or two just in case. Rap anchors on the gully down.

I'm on the Rowin Atkinson Diet.

a few more things. you don't have to tie a huge knot, if the 2nd rapper slides the knot way down like I expained. Also, if you use a big rounded locking biner, it shouldn't get stuck like a knot would. I tie a european death knot (EDK) in everything i rap off of (even the tat). I'll back up the 6mm/9.4mm setup with a fishermans on both tails cuz it looks scary.

I use RBW's setup. I tie the two ends together so the knot is on the side of the skinny rope. I tied a fig-8 on a bight as low as possible and clip a locker to it and around the fatty rope. If the 6mm breaks it is still secure to the knot above the biner. I also have a stuff sack and a toy biner. I clip the tail of the 6mm to the stuff sack and biner, and stuff the rope into the bag. EASY tossin'! The big problem is if you pull the rope and your lead rope gets stuck when it tumbles down. Have fun re-leading whatever you just rapped w/a 6mm rope! Also sometimes it is hard to start pulling the rope, so after the 1st person raps and does a "test pull", and the rap isn't a rope stretcher, the 2nd and rap and lock off the fat rope, pulling the knot as low as possible to avoid sticking. Once (on inspiration pk) the knot passed through the anchor makign it IMPOSSIBLE to pull either rope. That was an old fashioned good time! The 6mm rap is great "bail" insurance, but my stomach would be in knots if I had to do more than a few double rope raps. Stuffing the 6mm is a pain in the ass, as is pulling it. If you are climbign with TWO packs, the 2nd's pack could contain an 8mm dynamic lead rope. The extra weight may be worth it to avoid epicing on the raps, and avoiding double rope technique on the climb (if there are lots of handing belays, etc.) I, of course, use all three systems and regret my decision when I select any of them. I think a great idea in some cases is to lead with a 70mm 9.4 rope and use that as the only rap line. Sometimes rapping with one rope and setting up extra stations with extra tat is a lot lot lot faster. It all depends on the climb and the risks you are willing to take to save weight, and cluster fucks on the lead.

Distel was there with my 35mm camera, so I can't afford to develop the rolls.

I got there last night and had a mtn lion circle my truck so I left the lights on while I ate dinner. Pissing rain in the am and my car didn't start. Epic. No mtn biking.

V2?

a windowlicker is some fat ass possibly retarded kid with his face pressed up against the window of the minivan or what have you, maybe some crumbs on his shirt, definately breathing heavily through his mouth, and absentmindedly licking the window... duh!

I hate that person.