layton

1st of all I am going to unofficially name this peak, "Serendipity" peak. Jordan feel free to change it to "Razorback Peak," or "Peak Wal-Mart", but it needs a name. 2nd, Jordan, please post good driving directions. It is 2wd. Also, this needs a 2nd ascent. All the photos were lost when the website changed format, so i am re-uploading the photos and blurry topo. Pitch 7 has a 10c fistcrack I hung on that is just for sport, not really en route. To sum up the orginal posts, it is 3-4 pitches (about 150 meters) up a splitter 10b crack. Bring lots of finger to hand sizes. Then it is 5.9, 10b, "10c", etc... The approach takes exactly 1.5 hours and descent to base is exactly 40 minutes. The route is 900 feet long. Easily done in a day if you camp across on the road, or add 3 hours from vancouver or bellingham. It took us 6 hours with much fucking around. One rope. No pins. No looseness. Squamish quality. Here is the mountain with the name in question. Note the steep "endurance slab". Here is the foreshortened "endurace slab" Original line went to cracks on left. Last route was crack on far right (not shown). Here is the 5.8 start. Rest of pics on splitter granite And the hazy topo: Jordan, please post a better topo and driving directions

jesus christ, Mark! Nice topo!

and left rope at home

i'm in

Need partner for the 30th till whenever. This means you! Ideas: Squamish craggin or grand wall Index DAvis holland NF Baring Nooksack N.F. Inspiration Peak Davis Pk WA pass if not too hot

I can't believe how much shit you guys climbed? Where you a saint in your previous life? I get shut down on the way to the cook tent in AK sometimes! Way to go! Amazing!

We were gonna do the SE ridge descent for the N.F., but since we wound up doing the NE ridge and dumped a shit ton of gear we didn't need, we wound up doing the NE ridge descent also. I would reccomend this as the descent. It only took 90 minutes. I suggest simul-rapelling. Bring lots of TAT and a knife to beef up the anchors. There are some ready to be refreshed!

Just looked at the approach. DEAR JESUS!

the forecast calls for pain

What happened?!?!?

Saw it yesterday. It is massive. Anyone ever attempted it or noticed it?

I also coined the phrase, "I don't think so!"

the plafond, or platfrom of the base of the tibia, behind the condyles? i think?

She was Chopping Blockery

is the wall to the east dry yet?

Climb: Triumph-NE Ridge (NF Recon) Date of Climb: 7/25/2004 Trip Report: Jay and I went to scope the N.F. central rib on triumph yesterday with hopes of climbing it. After much sketchyness, it would've been two long double rope raps into a very broken glacier. Not for me! Triumph pass is the way to go. It says 8 hours for that way, but I think we were pushing 7 by the time we were turned around via descendign from the notch. So we did the NE ridge instead. It was a lot easier than it looked, in fact it is a trail in some places! We simuled the whole thing, cliping mostly rap anchors and an occasional piece (like two) for the 2nd. It would be a very fun solo. The raps were very quick with one rope, vs a rope gnarl with two. 90minutes up, 90 minutes down. We simul rapelled. The most beautiful place in the world, but for 90min of climbing in an 18hour day.....not quite worth it. Good recon for the N.F., however. BTW, the NF ribs look like multipitch Boatlaunches (the larabee s.p. climb that is). Gear Notes: 1 rope strap-on poons very small rack 5 slings Approach Notes: 3 hours to the pass is total crap! Check it out. Beckey says 3 hours to col from car, yet the climb takes THREE DAYS to TWO LONG DAYS??!!?? So after the 3 hour stroll, Beckey, it takes 2-2.5 days to cross 1 mile of glacier and 1200' of 4th class? What the hell are you on?

thanks a lot! beta? feel free to pm me. I dunno about this year, but i want to check it out, along with some other stuff "nearby."

Umm, we were talking about milf in college, back when i was young, in like '89/90... but good luck on the royalties... --cd. Must've done a lot of drugs too since you can't fucking read dumbass.

whoops, I though you were Cairnes for some reason.

If you do it on the 100degree days coming up, I suggest Ivan as your parnter.

is the north face the same steepness as the east face (can't tell from angle). The runnels looks neat poking out on the N.F. but it looks pretty low angled.

Wasn't me, but they owe my royalty b/c I invented that phrase 4 years ago.

thank you! where does your route go?

I'm looking for photos of the N.F. of davis peak. I can see most of it from the Hwy, but haven't been back there...yet.