layton

i still haven't been able to find any grossmeoutlets, dentmarts, or food graveyards in Portland yet. anyone know of any. In bellingham we had the Grocery Outlet, sunshine liquidators, Deals Only!, and one other place to choose from. saved at least 1/2 on groceries. so wheres the cheap eats? Winco doesn't count, although they do have good prices on certain items, they are not food musuem like the places i listed. And don't mention Costco for chirsts sakes! I'm not living in 'balabama with 30 chillins'.

...sum up the last month for me: You know like world/local news, anyone climb anything good, how's the conditions on hood, spray topics, blah blah blah? Looks like it's been a slow month 'round here. Here's my tr for september: 1st then a few good climbs and back to Well at least july and august were good. i'm now about 80% scar tissue and have depleted all my energy reserves. totally 100% burnt out. want to sleep.

I second this gentleman's question. just moved to a swank part of town. someone give a heads up to good bars w/cheap live music. I haven't heard of any of the bands in the paper so I really don't want to find a good one via trial and error (although fun, it's mula $$)

Actually, I just moved to near the Peal District in PDX and wouldn't mind going on a date with a climber girl. Still on the road till sunday, however...

thanks scott!

yeah, nevermind what I said about the ice i guess. maybe early season. awww fuck it. go to the Canadian rockies for ice.

No wonder you got nowhere. I give beta in a PM to anyone who doesn't flame me. I said I could list the drainages where there was good climbing. That's called beta asshole. Find the rest yourself. Ask yo momma to teach you some manners boy. Just stay the fuck away from the Bitterroots and quite whining. You probably can't walk far enough to reach the really good climbing anyway. Hey now! I wasn't flaming you-i was chiding... Lighten up, yo. This is Jordans tantrum, not mine. He's the A-hole. Goddamn canadians aren't as polite as they first appear.

Well...that about sums it up

it was an email bitchin' about the porcupine peak and holliway/needles. it's a fine line...

It's hard to tell if someone is being an ego-freak by saying, "do it car to car," etc... or just being honest about what they think the best way to climb something is. Miles Smart was a dick to me both times I've met him. Total elitist, who are you, why should I bother talking to you. I have been a dick like that too on this site. I am appologizing for that. If I said the same thing in person, it would'va come out TOTALLY different. That's the problem with the internet and using your real name! I appreciate, Lambone, that you mentioned you haven't met me so can't really judge. I don't have enough money to be an elitist anyway. Take Dean Potter. I don't know him, and he does HUGE shit REALLY FAST and is amazing. You know all the shit he's done. But, i can tell that he doesn't care if take 7 hours to climb a pitch of 4th class. I like those folks cuz they push themselves, and push the entire climbing community without saying, "i'm soo cool and sponsored and you are slow and a gaper" as the seattle rich-boys who climb hard sound like. Then again, I will continue to mock mass herd climbing with way too much shit. Those people are annoying to everyone in the mountains. And if I do something I am proud of, I'm gonna spray cuz I'm that type of person.

oh Dylan, sniff sniff . I'm gonna try and stop by the 'Ham a day or two just after my trip. Don't worry big buddy. You got business at hand when you get home We got a new kitchen for you to sleep in too.

The American Alpine Institute regularly guides on Rainier. Good guides.

I haven't climbed in the Winds, but I've heard a lot of the routes and lines drawn are totally inacurate. just 2nd hand info. I didn't like how the author won't publish the 1st ascentionists' names of the route. He said that was stupid and called everythign North Face Left Center, etc... I bet there were a lot of sheep shaggin' names. I think the winds is up for a new edition too. I don't really care since there's a lifetime of stuff already published up there. The Tetons, Sierras, and Cascades have the BEST guidebooks anywhere. Those are books to strive to be like.

Gotten some "hate" and "flame" mail over the past couple years. Usually I don't care, but just to set the record straight, here's my deal: I love climbing. I love everything about it. I may write my TR's a little agro' sometimes, but climbing can feel like war at times, and I try to convey that. I don't even pretend to think I'm am anywhere near a world-class climber. Shit, I pull on gear constantly. More importantly, I want people to try and realize they can push themselves, whether it's reccomending something be done in a day, or a harder or more obscure route than they're used to. This can and probably does come off as very elitist. This doesn't mean I think I'm better than anyone, there are hundres of climbers who can totally put me to shame. I just want to see our PNW climbing community to come out of it's slumber and become more than we are now. Of course I write way too many trip reports. Why? Do i want the whole world to know "what I've done". Maybe, but over the past few years I've been doing random routes that I would've loved some beta on. I wish everyone would write TR's on what they've done. I guess my self-deprecating sense of humor isn't always understood. If i write about a 5.10d X first asecent or something, I honestly am not trying to show off. I hate X and R pitches. And if it was a good one, I want folks to have as much fun on it as I did. I also know lots of folks here personally, so some of my chiding can come off looking pretty bad if you don't know the backstory. Finally, screw you clownpuchers, I'm off to the sunny Sierras then back to school.

wow, nice photo. kinda misleading since the bottom 2/3 is slabby schwag. The rock looked great for the last 500' or so. It's a huge face and it extends around the whole swamp creek basin. Ice or bolts, or if you are REALLY bored...aid.

thanks Peter, I just have it on the brain ever since "so and so" didn't wanna climb it anymore after p.3...

no, it was too steep to scramble around solo. I hate to say it, but bolts would seem to be the pro i'd want if I was gonna climb that. There also are no lines that "stand out" pretty wandering. Anyway, I'm glad that others had noticed this wall and I saved some folks from scopin' in vain. I won't be able to for a couple years, but somebody should go here in winter on when it's very cold. lots of smears and gullies. only an hour from the road (if you can get to that point on the road...) There is one upper tower (i'll post a pic in october when I develop my film) that may be good, but it's on top of 600' of shitty slabs and dead vertical. Looked blank, but I didn't have binocs, so it may have something on it. Looks exactly like the W.face of N.E.W.S. except steeper.

got a partner for almost the whole rest of the month for the sierras. enjoy the rain, bitches.

There's a difference between guides like the Becky Guide, and Falcon type guides to Montana... I mean, the becky guide has EVERYTHING (almost) in it and hardly anything gets done (per centage wise that is). If the becky guide only has WA pass for its "alpine" and the rest was crags, i bet someone from montana visiting here would have the same disbelief that our Canadian visitor Jordache had. All I'm saying is that guidebooks, if written in a comprehnsive style to catalogue the routes for climbers, F.A.'ers, and historians, is a great contribution to the climbing community, and hardly has any negative impact. I would love to see Beckey style guides to the Winds, Absorkas/Beartooth/Bitteroots,etc..,and Sawtooths. I guess that's what the AAJ is for, but god help you if you are going off the AAJ for a road trip. don't hate the playa', hate the game.

Thank you. I climb with the people I do to make myself look normal. . Thanks, choad yodel'r anyway.. Lambone, you are in violation of taking things too literally. You need to chill in your interpretation of Jordan's post. He's just annoyed at the attidude of the so called Montana hardmen. Climbers don't have any money, so even if it was the Mecca, the only new development would be the addition of a few more liquor stores. I am in firm belief that climbs need to be published. I think that as a part of the climbing community, you need to share information. EVERY climber has used a resource like a guidebook, so to think you are above that is plain ol' Colorado type arrogance. I'll love to drag some local Montana "hardmen" around the cascades and watch em weep for their mommies. Bug, are you saying that I can just pick a drainage or valley and find good climbing? B.S. I proved this idea wrong this month on my slog-to-nothing-a-thon.

can't wait for the made for T.V. movie!

oh, porcupine peak is one peak west of Hardy on Hwy 20 just pass Easy Creek.

Climb: Porcupine Peak-swamp creek trail Date of Climb: 9/12/2004 Trip Report: Note to climbers: the north face of porcupine peak is huge, granite, slabby, and mostly worthless. There are a couple really steep (vertical) 700 cliffs WAY up above some exciting slabs and gullies. Then there is the "see-tru" couloir, which is a vertical gully that is see-thru about 1/2 way up. Good views of Tower, Hardy, and Golden Horn, and of course Goode across the way. BUT....there is HUGE ice potential in winter. There is a great trail up swamp creek not marked on any map that I could find. Besides being a trail, it has liberal amounts of blue flagging tape. Actually, a ridiculous amount. The trial starts on the far west end of the Swamp Creek Pullout. It's about 1500' and 2 miles to the cirque and is pretty neat. Gear Notes: remote vision

you mean the, "bring a guide to find the crag" day? C'mon! We got some AWESOME hiking in, and a great taquito roll shot!

you gonna spill the beans jordan? I'll leave it up to you. i'm not gonna bother with that drive again.